My rockers were not making any noise or anything but ever since I did the rebuild, I've had a feeling that I adjusted them too tight(3/4 past 0 lash). So yesterday after work I adjusted them to 1/8 past zero lash using shbox's instructions. Started the engine, heard a ticking sound, thought it was that sewing machine sound everybody talks about, so I drove home and then the ticking got LOUD. I took the valvecovers off today and found both rockers on #2 cylinder completely off of the pushrods. Only one pushrod was bent and nothing else looked messed up, so I installed two new pushrods and this time I adjusted the rockers while the engine was running. I did 1/4 turn past 0 lash and most of the ticking is gone but can still here a high pitched tick if I really pay atention. Its running strong and I think I noticed an increse in power at high RPMs.

With the engine running method, is 1/4 turn past 0 lash good or should there be more preload?

My theory is that when i did them the first time, I did it all backwards(I was at #6 TDC when I thought it was #1TDC ect.) could that have been it?

 

Hopefully you didn't also bend a valve.

 

I always recommend adjusting lash in the following way because there is no way to make a mistake for those that don't do it daily.

Exhaust Opening...Intake Closing.


Put the rockers on and just lightly finger tight all the locks, crank the motor so that you can make them all just finger tight or basically 0 lash....now rotate the motor over slowly, as you see the exhaust valve starting to open on one cylinder, adjust the intake valve that accompanies it. As you are rotating the motor over more and see an intake valve starting to close adjust that cylinder's exhaust valve.

Anywhere from 1/4 turn to just over a full turn is fine for a hydraulic lifter, they are designed to work in the middle 2/3's of their available dry lash - it will equalize to the pre-load that you have set it at . I always set them at 1/2 min to 3/4.

 

IMHO, if you are paying attention, you can't mistake #1 for #6, but I guess it happens.

If you say you used instructions on my site, it could be one of several methods.

All methods of adjustment (including one like mentioned above) are listed on my site.

 

Its hard to explain but to put #1 TDC I turned the crank til I saw the intake valve open then close and then turned it a little more so that the arrow on the balancer was pointing up. But I'm not 100% sure that my balancer is on right. so I dont know if that would affect anything?

And do you guys think I'm ok with 1/4 turn past 0 lash with the engine running method?

 

That should be good, unless the hub has moved.

You should be fine with the lash you last set.

 

Sorry for the dumb question but why would a valve bend if the pushrod was no longer opening/closing the valve?
once the pushrods were no longer in they're place, the valves stay shut right?

 

Maybe he's thinking you bent it first before the pushrod got bent. Just guessing.

 

Normally a bent pushrod is from piston to valve contact.

 

I had to adjust my lash twice. (97ss 383ci - D1) Comp promag's with trickflo PR's and guides with 7/16 arp studs. I did as Machinist 1 has commented (Adj @ intake and exhaust open/ close events), except, I noticed after my RR change, the lifters were not feeling like 100% pumped with oil. I started the engine and noticed some ticking sound. Got all the oil pressure up there. Then, adjusted the lash a second time. Quite a difference in lash load the second time around. Of course, this is just my experience and opinion. B.