Adjustable PHR and LCAs...why?
PHB, because our rears arent centered with the car. If you measure, more than likely the rear is either shifter to the right or left. Mine was off by about 1/2inch. Also, needed to perfectly center if running BIG tires.
LCA, adj so you can recenter the wheel in the wheel well and run a taller tire without hitting frame.
LCA, adj so you can recenter the wheel in the wheel well and run a taller tire without hitting frame.
I would only buy an adjustable PHR if I knew the body wasn't correctly centered over the axle. I have had an adjustable for about 7 years, and only needed to adjust it recently when I went to 315/35-17 DR's, on 17x11 wheels. I needed about 1/8" adjustment to equalize the space between the tires and the inner fenders.
On the adjustable LCA's, in general, there is no benefit in making them adjustable. All you can do is move the rear axle assembly forward or backward in relation to the wheel openings. If you had a thrust angle problem, you could adjust the rear axle to make it perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the body, but that would be an extreme case. Again, since I had them, I did use them to move the axle back about 1/4", when the 28" QTP's started growing enough at 125mph trap speeds to contact the front edge of the wheel opening. By moving the axle back slightly, I was able to move the interference from the front/sheet metal edge, to the rear/rubber bumper cover edge of the wheel opening. Again, an "extreme" condition.
I would save the money you would spend on the "adjustable" feature, and use it for LCA relocation brackets, which are probably the best thing you can do for the rear suspension.
On the adjustable LCA's, in general, there is no benefit in making them adjustable. All you can do is move the rear axle assembly forward or backward in relation to the wheel openings. If you had a thrust angle problem, you could adjust the rear axle to make it perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the body, but that would be an extreme case. Again, since I had them, I did use them to move the axle back about 1/4", when the 28" QTP's started growing enough at 125mph trap speeds to contact the front edge of the wheel opening. By moving the axle back slightly, I was able to move the interference from the front/sheet metal edge, to the rear/rubber bumper cover edge of the wheel opening. Again, an "extreme" condition.
I would save the money you would spend on the "adjustable" feature, and use it for LCA relocation brackets, which are probably the best thing you can do for the rear suspension.
LCA relocation brackets are a MUST for lowered cars. I would say they are of benefit on a car that hasn't been lowered with any sort of decent power increase over stock. My suspension is stock height, or maybe even a shade above stock, with the Drag Launch springs, but it wouldn't hook at all N/A until I added the LCA relocation brackets, and put the LCA's in the lowest hole.
As far as weld-in brackets vs. bolt-in, I don't like the idea of adding more load to the shock mounting bracket, but if BMR sells it, it must be "OK"... the welding is really very simple. My preference is for the SPOHN PERFORMANCE suspension components:
http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../LCASprShk.jpg
As far as weld-in brackets vs. bolt-in, I don't like the idea of adding more load to the shock mounting bracket, but if BMR sells it, it must be "OK"... the welding is really very simple. My preference is for the SPOHN PERFORMANCE suspension components:
http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../LCASprShk.jpg
Okay quick question. I bought some weld in BMR relocation brackets and thought they were suppose to come with bolts like the pics on the site and on spohns site shows but I never got any. The guy I bought them off of said they did not come with them and are not necessary. Is that right or do I need the 4 bolts that are shown? If so where can I get them?
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