Will bumping up the power to my Z/28 leave me with less or no car? I know you have to properly balance power and the strenth of the drivetrain and engine componenets, but what point is too much power for stock components?

First off, critical info on my car is in the sig, currently has 50k on the clock, and has a fresh optispark. Its my daily driver and was only a summer car, but I think its becoming a year round one now.

Second, I have been considering spraying N2O on the car for sometime, since I can't afford a cam/head/forged rebuild or a supercharger. Although I am not ruling them out. I am liking the NX Wet Kit since it has a good reputation. And I really only need the extra power at certain opportune times (Track once or twice a year and um *cough* merging onto highways). Maybe shoot up once every 2-3 weeks, but much less during winter. What do I need to consider as far as parts wear, additional upgrades, and possible problems before I add the power?

For example:

I fear that my A4 will blow with the added power and I really dont want that. How can I preserve my transmission with the added power? Would a Transgo and B&M cooler help preserve the transmission? I know its not healthy to spray through shifts.

I also fear detonation, but from my readings this can be avoided with wet kits and various other safety measures. (Not saying Dry's are problematic, but I want to run stock injectors if I can)

Will my rear end hold with Street tires? How about if I run some BFG DR's once in a while? I know they will spin, and I usually take it easy on the drivetrain when I can. Even with bolt on's I never launch from a dead stop, let alone hook anywhere in first or second.

Do I need to consider 3.73's, since I added the headers I feel like my power band moved up slightly and it takes a second to get into it.

So basically I am asking, what is your experience with Superchargers, H/C, and N2O on a Z/28 similar to mine? What broke? Why did it break and can it be prevented?

Thanks

-Dustin-

 

If you want to spray it, a conservative shot (75-100 hp) seems to be fairly safe on a stock engine. You need to have all the safety stuff, such as a window switch, fuel pressure safety, etc. In the end, mods are GOING to break something sooner or later. The automatics seem to die with alarming regularity, even stock. A friend's heavily modded car has gone through four transmissions and is headed for five, I think. The rear end is weak on these cars, and many people break them.

So, if you haven't got the money to fix it when it breaks, then don't mod it.

 

In stock form she could break at any moment. If you want to mod it start with the weak points first. I snapped a rearend (on street tires, on the street...no where near the track), and I had my car a whole 3 weeks (bought it with 74K on the clock 4 years ago) before the stock trans took a dump. Ive been beating on my 2,000.00 transmission for those 4 years now and its holding up just fine. (for now...)

Going fast, cost money.

 

s8er95 made some good points. Your going to be limited by the weak links which is the rear and clutch for the most part.

I like supercharge'd setups as it's power on demand, though NOS is a relativly inexpensive way of gaining power, though if your using it on the street often, plan on refilling your bottles often. I would feel like, if I wanted to race someone, I would always think in the back of my mind...should I spray or not...if I do, I'll only have x amount of shots left.

At any event, no matter which way you go...I think overall your better off either adding a nice power adder vs. spending a ton of money on stuff that nets you .05 seconds and 15hp...just plan on a new rear end or clutch. Talk to tbryne at www.tbyrnemotorsports.com his prices have always been very reasonable...his customer service is very good also which some folks overlook...then they complain that the place they bought something at didn't give them any service.

Good luck

 

Well I would suggest going on the for sale section of this board and buying a set of LT1 heads & intake and maybe a hotcam or something similar, and sending the heads & intake to Lloyd Elliott or Phil at AI and having them ported & polished.
Then I would save some money and buy a good tranny like the Art Carr or Hughes with all the beefed up internals and finnally I'd get a Moser or Strange rear so you wouldn't have to worry about it breaking.
Or you could buy another block and build a 383 and drive your car stock until it's done and then switch over.

 

as for drivetrain holding up right now i have CAI underdrive pulley msd ignition and a few other things and i blew up my second gear in my m6 tranny. I also have a spec stage 3 clutch which didnt help save the tranny any but in my oppinion i would say if your gonna build your car alot then fix the weak points first (tranny and rear end) i know those are the expensive parts but which is more expensive constantly blowin out stock replacements or spendin the cash to get goodones.
But if you dont think your gonna be doing major power adders just maybe sprayin here or there then i would just go for it but dont be surprised if somethin blows when your drivin hard
just my .02