AC Delete pulley
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Registered User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 7
AC Delete pulley
I was just wondering how much good an AC delete pulley will do? Will there be any noticeable difference or would it be a waste cuz my AC don't work anyway, i would rather drive with the windows down anyway. I am replacing my opti, gettin some MSD,Accel 9000 wires or maybe Taylor (not sure which would work the best), TB bypass, and puttin in 160 thermostat. I might as well do the AC delete since i'll be messin with everythin anyway. Will these things i am doin have any noticeable difference or not?
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,628
From: Pgh, PA
Re: AC Delete pulley
If your Opti is fine, and your wires are not burned, you will not "feel" a difference from this.
The TBB is good for 2ish RWHP, and you will notice an increase in throttle response when the car is hot in traffic. The thermostat will work with this. You might not notice a increase in power at WOT, but you will likely see improved throttle repsonce and will run cooler.
As for the AC. If it doesnt work, why not? Just save the parts that way if you want to put it on later you can. I never recharged mine from when I bought the car totaled and rebuilt it. I planned on doing it, but now I am obsessed with wanting to mod the **** out of my car and have decided to go ahead and take mine off. However, I am just waiting until I have the money and get my heads and cam. I will do it then. You will loose I think close to 75 lbs removing the AC pump, condensor, and lines. This, along with removing the space and jack, would be good for a 1/10th of a second in the 1/4 mile.
And may I suggest, if you are going to do all that work, change your plugs too. Their not as bad as everyone says they are.
Now if you are doing all of this to gain some performance only, and the car seems to run just fine as is, I would suggest spending the money you would on that stuff in the following way:
Coated Pacesetter Long Tube Headers & Y pipe : $500 & 20 RWHP
Lingenfelter CAI (Huge K&N included) : $160 & about 10 RWHP
Hooker Cat-Back : $300 & about 5 RWHP, sounds mean with the headers.
Cut-out : $30 & about 5 more RWHP when open.
These are your best bang for the buck bolt ons.
So basically, if you were doing those mods for performance, dont. Inless you are having problems with the existing parts. But if the car is in good running order, I would be buying the above parts. Also, there are some fantastic deals on the classifieds section in here. Check it out.
If you are more willing to tear into the motor, another worthwhile mod is new valve springs and 1.6 RR's. You could pick up the GMPP 1.6 RR's for cheap and good valve springs for about around 225$
The TBB is good for 2ish RWHP, and you will notice an increase in throttle response when the car is hot in traffic. The thermostat will work with this. You might not notice a increase in power at WOT, but you will likely see improved throttle repsonce and will run cooler.
As for the AC. If it doesnt work, why not? Just save the parts that way if you want to put it on later you can. I never recharged mine from when I bought the car totaled and rebuilt it. I planned on doing it, but now I am obsessed with wanting to mod the **** out of my car and have decided to go ahead and take mine off. However, I am just waiting until I have the money and get my heads and cam. I will do it then. You will loose I think close to 75 lbs removing the AC pump, condensor, and lines. This, along with removing the space and jack, would be good for a 1/10th of a second in the 1/4 mile.
And may I suggest, if you are going to do all that work, change your plugs too. Their not as bad as everyone says they are.
Now if you are doing all of this to gain some performance only, and the car seems to run just fine as is, I would suggest spending the money you would on that stuff in the following way:
Coated Pacesetter Long Tube Headers & Y pipe : $500 & 20 RWHP
Lingenfelter CAI (Huge K&N included) : $160 & about 10 RWHP
Hooker Cat-Back : $300 & about 5 RWHP, sounds mean with the headers.
Cut-out : $30 & about 5 more RWHP when open.
These are your best bang for the buck bolt ons.
So basically, if you were doing those mods for performance, dont. Inless you are having problems with the existing parts. But if the car is in good running order, I would be buying the above parts. Also, there are some fantastic deals on the classifieds section in here. Check it out.
If you are more willing to tear into the motor, another worthwhile mod is new valve springs and 1.6 RR's. You could pick up the GMPP 1.6 RR's for cheap and good valve springs for about around 225$
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,746
From: Hemet, CA
Re: AC Delete pulley
I had the 1LE pulley on my last Z28... I actually only put it on because my A/C was screwed up somehow and the geometry was messed up, causing it to throw belts nonstop. Since I didn't have the money to replace everything, I did the A/C delete.
You won't feel a thing, really. It's basically for people that want to be very thorough in their weight savings. The small little pulley/frame setup does "free-wheel" a bit more easily than the A/C would, but you won't really feel a thing either way.
You won't feel a thing, really. It's basically for people that want to be very thorough in their weight savings. The small little pulley/frame setup does "free-wheel" a bit more easily than the A/C would, but you won't really feel a thing either way.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 7
Re: AC Delete pulley
My opti failed so i have to replace it and the plugs were just replaced less than a year ago. I really want the Pacesetter LT's but i don't have enough money yet so that'll hopefully be next summer. Right now i just want it to run so i can drive it again.
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