ABS delete(prop. valve)
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 211
From: Danville, CA
Jordan,
I am doing the ABS delete thing on a race car right now. THe following is what we did:
1. unplug and unbolt the ABS unit and chuck it.
2. you should be able to "massage" the rear line from the old ABS position to the master cylinder if you are careful/good. (we are replumbing entire line front to rear to install a proportioning valve)
3. you will have to insert a "T" on the two front brake lines. We used a stainless -3 Bulkhead "T" and some steel caps and sleeves to make the transition in AN fittings. (You could use regular brake fittings to do the same thing) The bulkhead fitting allowed us to put a tab in there and attach it to the frame as a bracket.
4. Manufacture a NEW 3/16th steel line from the "T" to the master cylinder.
The rear line into the ABS has enough "slack" that you should be able to unscrew it from the ABS and CAREFULLY rebend it to the Master Cylinder....I did not do this as we are running new lines to the rear for a Wilwood **** proportioning valve (I like the infinate adjustability of the **** vs. the lever), but it should be able to work. If you choose to fabricate new line all the way back to the rear end as I did, it CAN be tricky....the flare fittings go from 3/16th to metric and back.....we had to manufacture a peice to replace the block on the rear.
The rear brake line must be hooked to the hole in the Master Cylinder CLOSEST to the front of the car....the front goes towards the rear....this is important on how the MC works.
For the front, they run up the frame rail about 1 inch apart from each other to the ABS. We just cut the lines about half way up the frame...one a little longer to make a turn and get into the "T", and one straight into the "T"....put on the AN caps and sleeves, flared the line ends and connected. Then we fabricated a NEW line from the "T" to the MC about 16 inches long.
Not really hard, but need to take your time and need 2 tools for this. A brake tubing bender....looks kinda like a pair of pliers with a rounded part to bend the line around smoothly. A flaring tool....neither is expensive and can be found in any auto store.
Randy
I am doing the ABS delete thing on a race car right now. THe following is what we did:
1. unplug and unbolt the ABS unit and chuck it.
2. you should be able to "massage" the rear line from the old ABS position to the master cylinder if you are careful/good. (we are replumbing entire line front to rear to install a proportioning valve)
3. you will have to insert a "T" on the two front brake lines. We used a stainless -3 Bulkhead "T" and some steel caps and sleeves to make the transition in AN fittings. (You could use regular brake fittings to do the same thing) The bulkhead fitting allowed us to put a tab in there and attach it to the frame as a bracket.
4. Manufacture a NEW 3/16th steel line from the "T" to the master cylinder.
The rear line into the ABS has enough "slack" that you should be able to unscrew it from the ABS and CAREFULLY rebend it to the Master Cylinder....I did not do this as we are running new lines to the rear for a Wilwood **** proportioning valve (I like the infinate adjustability of the **** vs. the lever), but it should be able to work. If you choose to fabricate new line all the way back to the rear end as I did, it CAN be tricky....the flare fittings go from 3/16th to metric and back.....we had to manufacture a peice to replace the block on the rear.
The rear brake line must be hooked to the hole in the Master Cylinder CLOSEST to the front of the car....the front goes towards the rear....this is important on how the MC works.
For the front, they run up the frame rail about 1 inch apart from each other to the ABS. We just cut the lines about half way up the frame...one a little longer to make a turn and get into the "T", and one straight into the "T"....put on the AN caps and sleeves, flared the line ends and connected. Then we fabricated a NEW line from the "T" to the MC about 16 inches long.
Not really hard, but need to take your time and need 2 tools for this. A brake tubing bender....looks kinda like a pair of pliers with a rounded part to bend the line around smoothly. A flaring tool....neither is expensive and can be found in any auto store.
Randy
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