Im getting a bare block and just taking it from there so i can drive my car at the same time. The block has 110k miles on it. Which I will bore it .030 over. Should I use the stock crank with that many miles on the crank?

How much nitrous could i spray with forged pistons/rods (suggestions?)

I play to put in the GM847 or a custom grind similar. About how much does it cost to have the block bored/honed/magnafluxed/hot tanked? Should i have the deck milled?

Still ideas floating around in my head but Id like to get stuff together

 

i would say to get a new forged crank to start of with...

 

I thought you were looking for suggestions just before starting the new motor up. lol

 

Robert - I'm a little biased, but I'm doing exactly what you described .

TRW .030 pistons, stock rods, and stock crank. I'm going to see how long it lasts on a 200 shot. Should be fine, IMO. Main thing with the nitrous is an adequate fuel sys.

If I had to do it all over again I might wait a little longer, save up a little more money, and then go with a Scat 3.75" crank, but you can beat the price of a plain jane 355 rebuild.

Ryan

 

383 just seems to expensive for me. And forged cranks are hella expensive, another reason i was going towards a 355. How much HP would a eagle steel crank take? Still want some opinions on the stock crank aswell

 

I got mine that im building
Eagle lw crank 3.48 stroke forged-$579
Eagle lw rods wiesco pistons rings and wristpins-$700
Block the normal .030 and decked and line honed and tanked- $400

If i were u i would check into the crank, Eagle claims 4-5 lbs lighter than stock which i wont believe till i have it in my hands but if it is that gonna be skippy

 

yeah i blew my bottom end a few days ago...

So im interested in everyone's rebuild opinions..
Im thinking studded 2 bolt mains, splayed/capped or 4 bolt.

forged rods (what type?)
probably SRP JE pistons unless anyone knows of cheaper of equal quality.

Cast crank? Dont know yet. How tuff are the cast ones..

Im thinking of a 150 shot or 9-12 psi's on turbo.

 

Im guessing you want to go with a large power adder at some point...N20 in particular. You'll have to choose wisely when it comes to the pistons and especially the rings and rods. How much of a shot were you wanting to go with? Using a forged piston means its of course heavier but is also softer. Some have had to watch for burning off oil with the forged pistons...

For my rebuild, I'll be doing a hypereutectic 355 and KB pistons with decent rods and rings. I'll be keeping my motor N/A so I'll most likely be keeping the stock crank and just get it prepped, polished and ground, if necessary. Im going for more of a daily driver that'll last longer with the lighter pistons...yet I feel that I can still push anywhere from 400-450 to the rear wheels with a nice top end.

 

myblack94z,

I just ordered the same forged crank. It will be lighter. The race shop I ordered mine from says they have seen them come in lighter than 50lbs.
I'm not sure what your set up is but the LW rods don't take much are you going to be using a power adder?

I went with the Eagle H beams with L19 rod bolts and SRP Extreme duty pistons and the LW Eagle 4340 crank for my 383.


You can get a forged crank on Ebay from several places for around $459-499 and most of the cast cranks are $200. To me it's worth the $300 if you have to replace your stock crank anyway.

 

Im still looking at pistons because im not sure what heads i'll have on or what compression i will be running...

Specs in mind:
Eagle SIR LT1 Forged I-Beam Rod Set 5.70" Length
Eagle Cast LT1Crankshaft 3.48" Stroke
Federal Mogul or Clevitte77 bearings
GM847 Cam
150 Shot N20

Still need suggestions on pistons and rings

 

The rods I bought are rated to 500 hp if i make 500 hp im doin something right. But when i dyno it and it makes less than 500 like expected and a rod breaks eagle gonna see the dyno sheets. Eagle wont like me if that happens. Ya kno i got alot of hell in a post similar to this cause i chose the crank but if it shaves that much weight wow.