A4 Shift Points for XE 224/230 112 LSA cam?
A4 Shift Points for XE 224/230 112 LSA cam?
Hey guys, my car currently has:
Hooker LT's
2800 Vigilante
SLP CAI
Hooker Catback
(along with other random suspension components)
Anywho, I'll be installing the above mentioned cam, an XE 224/230 112 LSA grind and using my bone stock heads. Everything is on the way from combo motorsports, now I just need to get the PCM reprogrammed.
I'll be using Bryan @ pcmforless again as he did a great job on my basic bolt on tune. I'll probably be getting it dynotuned a little later when funds allow and the chance comes up.
What should the shift points be set at? I think the cam should rev to somewhere between 6200-6400... or maybe just 6200 since it's on stock heads? I will have cm's custom springs, so that won't be a problem.
With that, I understand A4's shift my MPH in the PCM, not RPM's.. how does this break down for programming?
Anywho, suggestions on shift points appreciated so I can tell Bryan
Hooker LT's
2800 Vigilante
SLP CAI
Hooker Catback
(along with other random suspension components)
Anywho, I'll be installing the above mentioned cam, an XE 224/230 112 LSA grind and using my bone stock heads. Everything is on the way from combo motorsports, now I just need to get the PCM reprogrammed.
I'll be using Bryan @ pcmforless again as he did a great job on my basic bolt on tune. I'll probably be getting it dynotuned a little later when funds allow and the chance comes up.
What should the shift points be set at? I think the cam should rev to somewhere between 6200-6400... or maybe just 6200 since it's on stock heads? I will have cm's custom springs, so that won't be a problem.
With that, I understand A4's shift my MPH in the PCM, not RPM's.. how does this break down for programming?
Anywho, suggestions on shift points appreciated so I can tell Bryan
What are you at now with your shifts? You might want to get it up around 6400. Also you might get more out of that cam with a bit larger stall. I think yours will be fine but 3200 would be a nice compliment for that cam. I am going to go up to 6400 RPM shifts & get my vert re-stalled to 3600... Someday. Your cam is bigger & you to can benefit from the high shift point & as you say your springs should allow. Did you ever consider a Rev Kit? That to will allow you to spin it a bit more....
Good Luck stud... Can't wait to see those times.
Good Luck stud... Can't wait to see those times.
Eddie.. I forgot to mention I'll be restalling to the 3200 Vigi (since it's free) in a few months.. and towards the beginning of "season" for racing here in Florida towards the end of the year I'll be installing a set of 3.73's to compliment.
My mission is 11's on stock heads, I know it can be done so damnit I'm going to do it
Right now my shifts are stock.. no changes in that department.
I've heard mixed reviews on the Rev Kit... and I understand that good springs negate the need for that kit? although I know it involves preventing the lifters from collapsing.. either way, it's not going to go on the car this time around.. ported heads are in the outlook for maybe next year..
Thanks for the well wishes.. get those heads on your car and restall... then get to running pImP....
My mission is 11's on stock heads, I know it can be done so damnit I'm going to do it

Right now my shifts are stock.. no changes in that department.
I've heard mixed reviews on the Rev Kit... and I understand that good springs negate the need for that kit? although I know it involves preventing the lifters from collapsing.. either way, it's not going to go on the car this time around.. ported heads are in the outlook for maybe next year..

Thanks for the well wishes.. get those heads on your car and restall... then get to running pImP....
Javier-
Our 1/4 mile times look darn near identical. My best run to date is:
12.94 @ 104.60 MPH with a 1.81 60 Foot time. All my mods are in my sig on TA. This time does not represent the following: BMR Boxed SFC's, Drag Airbag, BMR Relocating Brackets, BMR Tubular LCA's, V6 Springs, Trans GO shift Kit, Flowmaster Y-Collector and S-Pipe along with 3" inch Exhaust to the cut-out, Weld Draglights with 15 x 3.5 Skinnies and 15 x 8 E.T. Draglights. I was previously using 18" wheels up front and 16" Nitto 555R's on the rear during race time. Ive gained on the dyno 15 RWHP and 15 RWTQ since the runs at the track. Im hoping to get to the track this Wednesday and cut some 1.6xx 60 foot times and get my Bolt-on car around a 12.7xx times.
I too would like to get a cam and try to be in the 11's with stock heads for now. I was considering the XE 230/236 on a 112LSA. Keep me posted how the 224/230 cam works for you.
Our 1/4 mile times look darn near identical. My best run to date is:
12.94 @ 104.60 MPH with a 1.81 60 Foot time. All my mods are in my sig on TA. This time does not represent the following: BMR Boxed SFC's, Drag Airbag, BMR Relocating Brackets, BMR Tubular LCA's, V6 Springs, Trans GO shift Kit, Flowmaster Y-Collector and S-Pipe along with 3" inch Exhaust to the cut-out, Weld Draglights with 15 x 3.5 Skinnies and 15 x 8 E.T. Draglights. I was previously using 18" wheels up front and 16" Nitto 555R's on the rear during race time. Ive gained on the dyno 15 RWHP and 15 RWTQ since the runs at the track. Im hoping to get to the track this Wednesday and cut some 1.6xx 60 foot times and get my Bolt-on car around a 12.7xx times.
I too would like to get a cam and try to be in the 11's with stock heads for now. I was considering the XE 230/236 on a 112LSA. Keep me posted how the 224/230 cam works for you.
With this camshaft (I assume it is ground/installed 4 degrees advanced), I would keep the shifts at around 5,800 rpm (max) for a WOT shift. Over revving the motor (even though it is still pulling) usually will make the car run slower. You probably will find the peak HP to be at around 5,200-5,400 rpm (max) when you get it dyno tuned. Most automatics get their best runs when shifting at about 6-8% higher rpm than peak HP.
what you need to do is get it on a dyno after the install and see where your HP peak is, then shift ~500RPM after that. The cam is going to want to rev to 6200-6400 maybe but your heads are going to die out long before that.
Originally posted by magius231
what you need to do is get it on a dyno after the install and see where your HP peak is, then shift ~500RPM after that. The cam is going to want to rev to 6200-6400 maybe but your heads are going to die out long before that.
what you need to do is get it on a dyno after the install and see where your HP peak is, then shift ~500RPM after that. The cam is going to want to rev to 6200-6400 maybe but your heads are going to die out long before that.
I set my shift points with my old combo @ 6400 rpm PCM side to shift at those rpms(actually more like MPH with LT1 Edit)...I did that so my fiance' or any of my buds could simply just let the car shift on it's on and run high 11's every time.
But, if I shift manually around 5900-6000 rpm, I run .2-.3 tenths faster....
I to thought I would have a high spinning combo...not...and my heads were flowing at the time 260/175@.600...with a 226/236@114 LS....
I would shift lower...don't waste time and risk valve float....
But, if I shift manually around 5900-6000 rpm, I run .2-.3 tenths faster....
I to thought I would have a high spinning combo...not...and my heads were flowing at the time 260/175@.600...with a 226/236@114 LS....
I would shift lower...don't waste time and risk valve float....
Originally posted by Dave 96TA
silly double-poster. :P
.3
silly double-poster. :P
.3
fixed... dunno how that happened.. anywho what are u doing at work so early u slack? (i have ttops :P)canton->
So then about 6000rpm sounds like the good shot to let the PCM do it's thing? I don't plan on manual shifting, at least not for the time being

any and all input is welcome as well as ET/MPH difference input
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