Sorry, had to let off gas early due to short distance.
Enjoy:

Burn 1
Burn 2
1/4 Race

 

Nice, I see that probe had you off the line.

I'm gonna call the storage owner on you.

 

That probe got eaten up ...Nice Vid !

 

Cam sounds nice but how did it perform at the track? I thought I saw a 12.52 or somethin but I couldnt make it out.

What cam is it?

 

It's a 233/239 at 112. That run was 12.68 @ 109.33 with a 1.87 60'.
I would have gotten better times with 3.73s and a good stall (I have a stock restalled 2400 SLP) but I'm not going to bother. I'm switching to a 6 speed and doing heads in spring.

 

car sounds all kinds of mean, whats the exhaust set up consist of?

 

Ion, I can get a CC306 for $100 and Lloyd is working on my heads right now.

For $100 do you think I should switch? As far as streetability between my 224/230 110 lsa... would I be better off sticking with the cam I have based on the dyno numbers and track times you have seen between the 2 setups? Sorry.. not trying to hijack your thread!

 

Jet-Hot LTs, Jet-Hot y-pipe, no cats and magnaflow exhaust.

I have a DMH electric cutout on it, but it was closed in all those videos. I lost torque on the dyno with the cutout open, so I open it only on "special non-performance related occasions"

 

To tell you the truth, I don't remember if I tuned a 224/230 on a 110 before so I can't tell you much about it performancewise.

Lloyd will be doing my heads as well and I will stick with the 233/239 just because I'm too lazy to change it and it has proven to be a pretty good cam. I also have it dialed in perfectly and I get absolutely no cam surge or anything with it, so I think that's another good reason to keep it.

In your case, a 306 will be a better choice if I were to compare it to a 224/230 on a 112. Since I do not know how your graph looks like, it's hard for me to compare the two. Do you have a dyno graph?
Also, what are your goals with your car? Drag racing, auto x, or you just want to have a "fun" car like I do? (this car is not my daily driver)

 

http://www-personal.ksu.edu/~bperkins/dynochart.jpg

That is what my chart looks like. It still could be better b/c the dyno didnt have a good wideband to calibrate my fueling with.

My best run with the cam is a 13.058 @ 108.59 with 2.166 60'.

I want to run low 12's.

 

What RPM do you shift yours at? The graph is still climbing where you let off. I would think that cam should peak around 6000-6100. What was your air/fuel ratio?

You will have a low 12 second car with this cam and ported heads, but you will need to shift higher. Even higher with the 306.

I shift mine close to 6800.

 

I dont wanna stress the old 98k motor too much so i shift at bit higher at the track... that always yeilds me a higher MPH than shifting at 5800ish so i know it still makes power.

The afr isnt really easy to tell because i was trying to read off a stupid handheld scanner so I had to just go by memory and man there was way too much going on before during and after the run to really recall what I saw on that scanner. All i can say is WOT my scanmaster is typically 908 mV so it seems about right.

 

If that is the case, I would stick with the cam you have. I'm sure that cam has at least 10 RWHP more in it the way it is right now and with some heads, that will give you the power to reach your goal without spinning the shortblock too high. If I were in the same position, I would wait with the heads until I can get another shortblock that would support higher RPMs and will have new bearings in it. A forged 355 will be a perfect candidate, will not cost an arm and a leg and will also support some nitrous if needed.

Also, consider taking your car to a DynoJet Dyno which has the dynojet air/fuel ratio package, not a handheld unit like those ~$400 ones. I found those to be inaccurate and this opinion is based on repeated experiences.

 

Nice vids Ion.

 

Dude your car sounds insane... holy christ I can't get over how awesome is sounds!! Jesus christ... man I need one of those.