Ok on my 97 Z28.
I have a hose comeing off the pasanger side of the water pump in front.
It goes to the heater core.
To replace it you have to buy the hole thing with the aluminum line?
Or can I just cut it off at the aluminum line and run some new hose?
That SOB that put my engine in did more damage to the car then it cost me to have him put the engine my car.
From now on nobody touches the car.
Maybe just the alignment shop.
Unless I have access to an alignment rack.

Thanks,

Chris.

 

Which hose: The inlet hose on the right side as you look at the firewall, or the outlet which is to the left as you look at the firewall. I assume you re talking about the inlet side--so what is wrong with the hose, i.e, where is it boogered?

 

Check out shwbox.com. Should have a pic of the heater hoses. Excellant site by our esteemed Shoebox. JMHO

 

Ok if you are in front of the car.
The hose comes off the water pump on the left goes by the Bat.
There is an aluminum coupling on the stock hose that is leaking from.
Right as it comes off the water pump goes down about 4inches then there is the aluminum coupling then it bends to the left by the bat.
Then it goes into one of the two aluminum lines that goes to the heater core.
I guess there are two hoese back there by the fire wall too.
Those are fine.
it's this one.
http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg
It's leaking from Number 13.
So what can I do?
Can I cut it at the aluminum pipe and get some heater hose and run it back to the water pump?
Thanks,

Chris.

 

Can't help you. I don't know what 13 is. Apparently it is part no. 10188036. Looks like it is just a connector connecting 12 (is that rubber hose?) to 14 (is that the aluminum hose?). I'm sure someone else will help you here.

BTW: I know what you mean about someone else messing with your engine. I've known mechanics who hide lots of mistakes behind and underneath where you never see them until something goes bad.

 

It's leaking form the aluminum coupling 13.
That connects 12 and 15 together that's where its leaking from.
It looks like I have to relpace the whole thing.
Aluminum line and hose.
Looks like one whole unit that cost a lot of money.

Thanks,
Chris.

 

You can just replace the rubber sections. At least I hope you can. I just bought a goodyear hi-miler poly hose hit for my 97 Z28, and the photo shows like 9 heater hoses. With that many hoses, it includes all the oddballs like the one you need. It must be do-able. So I'm guessing you cut the factory crimped band clamps off and use a regular hose clamp. I've used poly hoses before, they're the last hose you'll ever install. Awesome product. Good luck with it!

 

I guess it depends on what kind of coupling it is. If it is one of those aluminum couplings just like the one (no 20 rubber to the aluminum tube) I believe it is a No. 16 coupling, then you would need put a little shallow slit in the coupling with a dremel saw and pry it apart to get it off. Then you could put a regular hose clamp on that to connect the rubber hose to the aluminum. Of course the important thing is NOT to go all the way through the aluminum coupling and actually cut into the aluminum pipe, because that would obviously ruin the pipe.

I did that with the coupling up near the firewall with the inlet hose, but as I said before, I don't know what kind of a coupling you have down there near the pump.

 

Yea it's the same aluminum coupling.
So I'll do what you said with the dremel drill.
I think I will get an OEM clamp so I don't over tighten it on the aluminum tube.
Sometimes I don't work well with tighten thing that go on or into aluminum.

Thanks Alout

Chris,

 

If you get that Goodyear kit, it's a good kit, but the hose [#15]that goes from the 'lower 3/4" front heater line inlet pipe' to the 'heater water flow control valve' [#13] by the water pump [that the '3/4" elbow' goes into, on the other side of that valve] is missing from the 'Hi Miler Kit'.
You can use a piece of 3/4" heater hose for it..[mine is 14.5"]
The metal bands DO Dremel off both sides of that plastic [not
auminum]valve,and the hard pipe ends also..
Use regular worm type screw hose clamps to replace..
It is a bit tricky to Dremel them on the car [you'll feel like a brain surgeon]but it can be done..

 

Yes. The key is to not dremmel yourself. You should do several dry runs to get the tool into position and get the right angle and steadying form.

I.e, pretend it IS brain surgery and you have no medical mal practice insurance.

 

Thanks,



Chris.

 

Just opened up a Hi-Miler kit for my '96 SS and found the disturbing lack of the aluminum tube to valve hose...

Why the Hell would this one hose be eliminated from a $100 hose kit???

This is going to look stupid, all nice blue hi-miler hoses and one stupid black one...

Sorry for the thread resurrection!!!

 

From what I understand from people that have the Hi-Miler kit is that it has all the hoses.
You need to cut the heaters hoses off the aluminum tube.
Use a Dremel.
And you have to be very carefull not to go too deep.

Chris G.
Opps I see what you mean in your post.
Your missing hose 15.
The only thing I can think of is to get a blue cover for it.
Like the black stuff that came stock in some of the hoses.
Or check this out. I think this will fix your problem.
http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/truck/heat.html
Look at the bottom of the page.
Looks like you can buy 6feet of it.

Let me know if it helped you out.

Chris G.

 

When I did mine about 2 years ago, I contacted GoodYear's engineering dept and went around with them for days and they assured me they would look into it and reengineer the product and include the missing hose..
Well.. it's nice to see that they did that..
See how much the 6 ft costs, or if you can get it nearby where you live... if you can't, I have a piece of 3/4" Hi Miler in the garage if I can find it, I could send it to you for a few bux.. I used a 14.5" piece for # 15.. been working fine for 2 years now..