gaedbo

Hopefully Injuneer will jump in with a response. He is the person that has the experience and knowledge that would be more accurate than my guess. My guess is that it is a problem with the Regulator or how you have it set. That is one reason I asked earlier if you were, or had followed the instructions that came with the Regulator.

Josh198816

Well.. I didn't install the regulator.. Someone else did. I don't know how they installed it or how long it's been on there.. I'll try adjusting it down to 40 and see what it does from there..

bw_hunter

Optimum pressure is 43.5 psi. Anything 41-47 psi is acceptable.

The fact that the fuel pressure drops to zero right after shut down indicates a problem. The check valve in the pump could have failed or the fuel pressure regulator could be bad. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator and check for the presence of fuel. Fuel=Bad.

Josh198816

I've been reading that aeromotive pumps bleed off to release pressure after shut off.. Idk how true but maybe its fine.. I know it's possible to get bad parts but as long as I've been working on European cars it's not as common as some say. So im really trying to figure out how to pinpoint the problem..
No gas in the vacuum line I'll drop the pressure down and post the result

gaedbo

I found this thread which may be helpful, read all of it. There is also a response from Aeromotive in the posts.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/fue...e-afpr-884309/

Josh198816

I have a video of the car I'm working on.. Can't figure out how to post the video.. Just took it so you can hear the popping from the exhaust. I set pressure at 41 with the wire you showed me hooked to 12v. Started it and it was about 35 at idle. Drove down the road and it held 31-35 got back to the house it was at 25 tried to adjust it up and wasn't moving. I pushed the bleed button on my tester went to zero can't get it to come back up.. Doesn't that sound like the regulator bad?

Josh198816

Hopefully this worked.. Should be the video of driving the car.

Josh198816

Guess not.. Just picture. Let's try this.
https://youtu.be/7eidElsn7Mc

gaedbo

Hopefully Injuneer or someone else more knowledgeable than me can give you the info you are hoping for.....

Just curious if you read my post #20 and checked out that link about the Aeromotive unit and the guys solution he found.

Josh198816

Hopefully.. I don't like just throwing parts at it. Especially when it's not my money lol..

Josh198816

Sorry just seen you asked that too. Yes I did. Said the diaphragm in the regulator was bad.. Couldn't quite tell if they were having the exact problem.. The part that I'm wondering about is the popping in the exhaust.. Sounds sort of like lean or timing issue.. I think,hopefully, we have it narrowed down to the fuel issue or optispark bad again.. Just wanted to be sure you know

gaedbo

Injuneer suggested in post #4 about using the free software and getting a cable. That really sounds like the way to go. It is a diagnostic software that Injuneer has been able to evaluate the results and give the answers to many, many, many people coming here for help !

Your Matco either isn't able to give these kind of results, or you may not know how to read or interpret them is possibly why you haven't got the results you need.

If you will want to try the Free SCAN 93/94/95 software created by Gary Doug. It would give you specifics that could be analyzed, and possibly lead you to the correct solution.

Click on the link below !

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

READ the information before you download it so you will know which download to select, and how it works.

You will need a cable and a laptop to use it. One of the places you can get a cable from is OBD Diagnostics

You can also make your own cable, the instructions are in the Scan link created by Gary Doug.

Injuneer the Super Moderator is able to read and diagnose the file if needed.

bw_hunter

I would think that a regulator that doesn't hold pressure is bad since that's what they're supposed to do.

Recheck the fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum line off and plugged. Adjust to 43.5 psi. Reattach the vacuum line and read the pressure. It will be lower than 43.5 psi but it shouldn't go to zero.

You can use Scan 94/95 but it won't tell you anything about the fuel pressure. It can tell you if you're running lean or rich by looking at the short and long term fuel trims....

Josh198816

I adjusted to 43 line off put it on and it dropped to 36. Drove it still popping barely idle. Hit the bleed on the tester and went to zero not near enough pressure. Tried adjusting back up and won't come back up.

gaedbo

This is a response from Aeromotives web site from another person who was having issues, and I thought it sounded similar to Josh198816 problem:

I’ve installed my new Aeromotive bypass regulator. Fuel pressure seems to adjust fine and holds great when the engine is running, but when I shut the engine off, pressure drops quickly to zero. Shouldn’t the pressure hold like it did with a stock regulator?
No, Aeromotive EFI bypass regulators may not seal perfectly when the pump is off. They are engineered for the highest possible performance when the engine is running. OEM regulators must hold pressure for 30-minutes after shut-down to pass EPA emissions standards. At Aeromotive we know our customers priority is to have the best possible flow and pressure control when the engine is running and we don’t compromise this standard to force the regulator to seal when the engine is off. If extended crank or hard-start becomes a concern, first allow the pump to run and prime as long as possible after turning the key to the run position, then start cranking the engine, just before the pump shuts off. If the priming cycle is too short to allow the engine to start easily with this approach, extend the priming cycle in the ECU if programmable, or ad a timer board or momentary button to the fuel pump run circuit."