After much waiting by Flyboy, I got his 93Z on the road this past weekend. Overall so far I'm happy with it, there's a few bugs I have to work out and a few things I have to finish before it's "done"

Here are some comments, questions about the build, first the good stuff.

355, stock crank, 4340 rods, TRW forged pistons, balanced

TEA stage 2 heads, 230/236 cam 114 LSA, w/ 1.6's pro mags, Trick flow pushrods 7.2in, Comp Cam R lifters

Double roller timing chain, vented opti conversion, CSI waterpump, 160 thermo

Stock intake, no porting, stock 48mm TB for now

Racetronix walbro 255lph pump w/ upgraded harness, SVO 30lbs, AFPR

MAC mid lengths, ORIP, DMH cutout, stock exhaust, flowmaster w/ borla tips

MSD wires, OVC, NGK plugs, blaster coil, CAI, relocated IAT

No EGR, AIR

Probuilt street/strip rebuild kit, TransGo Reprogramming kit, Servo, boost valve, big I/R valve, Vig 3000 lock-up, 3.73's

PCMforless tune

This is what I have to do yet

Fix the 1-2, 2-3 bang shift, talked to dana at probuilt, he thinks its because i didn't install the 3-2 downshift valve

Find out why the convertor is staying locked up all the time, and why the speedo doesn't work

Recharge the A/C, hook up cruise control

Install cutout, hook up 12v source for waterpump

These are my comment's questions about the car,

what should the fuel pressure be? trail and error, or any good starting points?

I readjusted the valves to zero lash, the car has a lot more power, no valve float and is alt quiter than trying to adjust them running at 1/4-1/2 turn

The car idles to low in park, i have bumped the idle screw up some, but not much, in gear, the car idles to high for my taste, you take your foot off the brake and it's pulling the car, it shouldn't pull that much, especially with a 3000 stall. Is the IAC count off?

The car should have a more lopy idle i think, a friend of mine has a 94 T/A with a cc305 cam, and with a stock tune, it sounded mean as a pro stock car, but after his PCMforless tune, it idles just like the 93 does, to high in gear, and no lope anymore.

When you put the gas to the floor, it bogs, really really bad, it's like a quadra-jet carb bog, it comes out of it, but at first the car sounds like it shut off. The car is not as snappy as it should be, IMO, it should have more traction issues than it does, i don't know if it's fuel pressure, tune or what

The car is just breakin in, and I have only ran it up through the gears once, there's a guy in town who wants to put his laptop on it and see the numbers, and see if he can fine tune the mail order tune, he said part throttle drivablity is really tough to do with a mail order tune. there's a dyno shop that just opened in town, so I am going to see if I can get something set up w/ him

The car drives great, very very streetable, it's just as nice to drive i think as it was stock, but the car does lope at a stoplight, it gets a lot of looks. oh, it's louder than hell with that exhaust and sounds awesome. I haven't put the cut out on yet either.

ok, sorry this was so long, thats all for now

Jason

 

Jason pretty much summed it all up. So all i can say is Woo Hoo.

 

i figured more people would be intrested in a build up like this, maybe my title isn't flashy enough.

 

It's not that it's not flashy enough, it's just a typical build up.

As for some of your questions, have you put the car on a scanner (datamaster ) to get a bead on what's going on??

As for the bog, what's your fuel pressure doing when the bog happens?? What about under load, say while accelerating at a normal pace???

I wouldn't discound pcmforless' tune just yet. He's got a rather large set of files that he tweaks as necessary. There's so many similar combinations out there that he pretty much has something for everything at this point. He's probably got you dialed in really close as is.

 

you're proabably right. I put the car on the scanner today at work. i also bumped the fuel pressure up to 55psi, it didn't really seem to help any. this is some of the info i got from the scanner, don't know if it will be any help, i don't have a laptop right now to hook up to the car.

in park,

02's switching good, 300-800
left blm 108, right blm 108
left bpw 4.3 right bpw 4.5
lo res sig 22
iac, 0, learned IAC 32, idles bad
map 3.2v
23 degree timing
qdm fault 1, 3

in gear, everything is pretty much the same except the iac is 75, and it's trying to idling at 1300 rpm with my foot on the brake, i went and drove it, blms are 122 when driving, it has 3 degrees of retard at WOT, and is really sluggish under 2500-3000 when you rev it in park. I checked the TPS, it's fine, car still seems really doggy under 3k rpms.

also, the left INT when driving is 66 and the right is 14, i don't know what these are.

thanks for any input.
Jason

 

also, when driving, at light throttle, at about 2500 rpms, with the convertor unlocked, the car surges.

 

Just looking at what you've got, a couple things stick out. Obviously, there's too much fuel getting in. You said you set the fuel pressure to 55 PSI. That's too much, with or without the vaccuum line attached (which way did you set it??). Try setting the fuel pressure to the stock range of about 41-47 PSI with the vaccuum line disconnected (straight from the service manual) and see if that doesn't help to lean it out some.

The QDM faults could be something as simple as a faulty relay, or could potentially signal a bad PCM. QDM 1 controls the following: EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve, EGR Solenioid Valve, and the AIR Pump Relay. QDM 3 controls A/C Clutch Control Relay and the Primary and Secondary Cooling Fan relays.

You may also want to try to get those IAC counts at idle up into the 45ish range. Just play with the throttle stop some.

Looks like some more closed TPS timing should be there too, considering you're only showing 23* and pulling a lot of MAP (too little vaccuum). Have you hooked a vaccuum gauge up to it by chance??

*Edit* Forgot to mention: The BLM's are equal to the LTerms, and the Integrator Values are equal to your STerms.

 

I had a problem with surging, new plugs and wires fixed it. Since this is a new buildup i'm going to guess that they are probably new? Therefore, could it possibly be a burnt plug wire? Keep us posted.

 

fastbird, i appreciate your reply, i set the fuel pressure to 55 or so with the line disconnected, it's about 50psi with it hooked up, EGR, and AIR have been removed, didn't know if that would cause those faults or not. i put a vaccum guage on it tonight. do you mean up the idle screw in park so it's 45 and not zero? what will that do with it in gear? it shouldn't be idling at 1300 in gear. i was in traffic when i did the WOT, i didn't see what the total timing was, just looked at the knock retard real quick.

yes, everything except the 02's are new.

thanks again.

 

Yeah, definitely drop that fuel pressure back down to about 42-45 with the vaccuum line off. Set the IAC with the car in park, to about 45. This will give it enough room to compensate either way when the car is in gear. If you completely removed the EGR/AIR system, then that could throw the QDM 1 fault if the chip that you got didn't have the codes disables, which they normally do. If you have access to another 93 PCM, I'd suggest trying to swap that in and see what happens. What's your vaccuum reading at idle, and what's your spark advance at idle??

 

the EGR and the AIR was supposed to be removed in the tune, it's not throwing any codes. i will drop the fuel pressure back down, i can smell it running rich now anyway. I will adjust the idle tomorrow at work since that's were the scanner is. thanks again.

 

I fixed the harsh shifting today, when i installed the transgo reprogramming kit, i didn't install the 3-2 valve because it was bent and wouldn't go in the valve body, so i left the stock piece in there. it messed everything up. now i have to figure out why the speedo doesn't work, and why the convertor stays locked up all the time.

i lowered the fuel pressure to 43lbs w/ the line removed, low rpms are a lot better but not as good as i think it should be. i didn't have a chance to put the car back on the computer, but i did close the throttle blades some, in park it idles at 600 rpms and sounds great, but when i put it in gear, the idles raises to almost 1500, and you can hear the IAC sucking air. so i will have to wait till tomorrow to set the iac at the 45 count. the car still is no way as fast as it should be, i am wondering how much the stock exhaust is holding the car back. the cut out should be going on this week a long with some A/C work.

 

Humm..

Bad speedo, high idle, rough idle.. sounds like a improperly installed piggyback adapter.

Could you double check the install instructions and see whats going on?

Anthor indication will be if you turn the key on without the motor do you get a SES light? You should.. Does the fans come on? they shouldnt.. With the motor on do you have a SES light? if so whats the code?

 

I went and checked, the SES light does come on when i turn the key on, and goes out when i start it. The fans do not come on when i turn the the key on. I looked at the instructions from pcmforless and there was no specfic instructions, just that the prom should be the same year as the car. the car had an ed wright chip in it prior to this. I think it was suggested to swap out ECMS but I haven't found one as of yet. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

ttt