With Stock heads my car would not peak on the dyno even at 7,000.

With the ported heads it peaked at 6,900

That was a few years ago and I have not stopped yet

 

thats pretty awesome I hope I have that much luck I want to at least run this setup for a couple of summers before I can afford the 383. What were you running through the 1/4 before ported heads and after with the cam? thanks,

 

If the engine is in good shape, put a new oil pump (standard volume, NOT hot volume) in with the white spring. Also, use Castrol (German) Syntec 0W30 oil. The German stuff is the kind with the red viscosity label instead of the yellow. About the best oil you can use for these motors. If you can't find that, Mobil 1 0W40 is a good alternative. With these steps, your motor should be fine. I say set rev limiter at 7000, and shift at 6800. Just make sure the motor is well tuned and not running lean in the upper rpms.

Jason

 

I assume your not relying on your stock tach but if you are they are known to be off by a few hundred rpms sometimes. Just be careful.

 

Without looking at your dyno chart, I bet that the optimal shift point is higher than you are willing to spin the motor (7000+ rpm). So it really just boils down to where you feel the risk justifies the gain. Shoot, going by my dyno chart, I should shift between 6000-6200 rpm and I have stock heads and stock cam. Your power/torque is way up in the power band compared to mine.

Dan

 

as far as the oil pump you're saying get a stock pump but where do I get the white spring you are talking about? My cam info that came with the 847 says to never run synthetic oil for some reason??? I always run castrol gtx 10w30. No it wont be going off of the tach this will be programmed into the computer and it will shift on its own I'v found that my car is slower if you manually shift it I usually put it in 2 to have more line pressure take off and as soon as it shifts to second I put the shifter in drive. But I do hav an auto meter tach and a shift light so I can see that everything is working right. I think that 6700-6800 is as high as I'll feel safe on the bottom end.

 

The melling M55A (also known as the Z28 pump) is a stock replacement with the "white" high pressure spring. Costs like 25 bucks or something like that from jegs or summit.

Brandon

 

I'll check into that, I actually have a new oil pan gasket because I tore my old one taking the timing chain cover off but I was thinking about just using rtv and putting it back together, I'm going to take the oil pan loose and see how high I have to lift the motor to get the pan off then I might change the oil pump.

 

seems a little crazy to me we all own these type cars with lots of mods and 30% say 6500 and 30% say 6800? with only a few that are at 6600-6700? I guess either everyone has there own little way that they feel about it or some are running the cam with close mods and thats what they shift at. So far I think only one guy ( of course not everyone has there mods in there sig.) that has the 847 has voted 6500 and thats understandable because he has a 383 which he wouldn't have to crank as high because the cam wouldn't act as big in a 383. I think 2 that have the cam have voted 6700 and about 3 that have the cam have voted 6800. I'll just keep watching and see how it goes.

 

Well whatever reason they use for not running synthetic with the 847 is bogus. A good synthetic like the German Syntec or M1 0W40 will protect the parts better than regular oil would. It's more stable at higher oil temps and synthetics have smaller molecules that help them penetrate into metal more than dino. Unless you have worn seals, the only thing to watch out for when switching is a possible oil leak. But if you insist on sticking with dino, GTX is arguably the best dino oil, and Penzoil is about even as well.

Jason

 

Actually I have heard that penzoil is a refurbished oil dont quote me on that but I've heard it a few times. I would like to go with synthetic but I've always ran castrol gtx and so far, and I do believe I've ran engines harder than most people out there I haven't blown anything up. If something goes wrong with this motor it's going to be crazy because I've had and have some rough motors, like the one in my old 3rd gen z it was a 74 350 4 bolt main all original never been rebuilt, I put a performer cam, intake, and carb on it and had no rev limiter whatsoever I had a bad transmission in it for a little while that when you were racing you had to let off the gas to get it to shift to drive, if you forgot then the engine seen about 10,000 rpms, and you could hear every valve floating I did this probably 30 or 40 times I raced several times every weekend, the motor wasn't much but I had the 700r4 with 4:10's and it pulled hard. We pulled the motor apart it had never made any noises or anything and it had all kinds of piston play and bearing wear. If that motor held together I sure hope mine will. Now I also have a 90 chevy truck with a 350 that only has 30 lbs. compression in the number 1 cylinder 150 in all the rest, I drive it everyday it has almost 200000 miles on it when you start it up the #1 rod bearing hammers, I run that motor hard all the time and nothing knock on wook has came apart yet, when its warm it only carries about 10lbs. of oil pressure, sorry for the long post just wanted to share that with you, I think if you dont care about a motor it will run forever but if you do care about it you'll have problems.

 

Sorry bud, but don't go making the claim that you hit 10,000rpm in a stock 73 350. There is no way the valvetrain could support that. Also, the stock rod bolts would never have held at that RPM.

 

How many of you guys shifting past 6k have a stock timing chain?

 

I reved mine to about 68-6900 rpm for a full summer on the stock chain. Although I might be pushin my luck, I've had no problems yet

 

It did have a double roller timing chain and roller tip rockers ( yea buddy) in it but I didn't mean that it hit 10,000 rpms I really dont know what it hit but the tach stopped at 8,000 and it pegged that everytime it happened. like I said the pistons moved in the cylinders and every part in the engine showed excessive wear when I took it apart put it never made noise and was still running when I pulled it apart.

By the way Ion at mad z28 got back with me and he's going to set my rev limiter at 7200 due to me getting a 6al box I'll set it at 6900 or 7000 then I'll have doube protection and be cutting spark instead of fuel. He's going to set my shift points at around 6500 and told me if I want to go higher then just to manually shift it at 6700 or 6800 so I guess well see how it goes hes shipping it back today. Then when I get my throttle body and my intake back from Lloyd I'll be able to fire it up.