I am doing a SC LT1 (t-Trim) 350 all 4340....

What would you do to the bottem end to make this thing hold for a nice life of boost..

the 600rwhp is the goal....

 

any forged steel crank and rods with good bolts and supercharger forged aluminum pistons with silicon will hold that easily plus another 200 hp. If you can get a 5.85 length and matching piston. That makes the piston a little thicker for added strength. Would be good for sc and nitro combo.

 

i would also make the block a 4 bolt main...

 

4 block main is a waste of money unless going over 1000 hp.

 

well i call it extra insurance....

 

well i am going with eagle 5.85 rods,crank,JE pistons -31cc, with stock heads ported by Ai

yes it will be a 4 bolt, witch why is a better choise stright or splayed...should i 4 bolt the front mail for extra stranth because of the load from the SC...

 

4 bolt main is also better for revving passed 6k

 

How many have you run and how long did they last?

500hp is about the real limit of a 2 bolt main.

BTW A front main is kind of hard to get in a 4 bolt. The GM Bowtie Race blocks have them and you can get a aftermarket one. The big thing with a blown motor is how much stress the blower puts on the front main cap and the crank snout. With a turbo there is not much of a problem there.

Bret

 

use alcohol injection, it will make that target goal alot easier, no need for an inter or aftercooler. cheaper too, alky is (or Methanol) is cheap too buy
www.alkycontrol.com (the guy Julio, aka "razor" is the **** with Turbo Buicks on alky!!)

thats my plans, either a D1 blower or a T trim Vortech on alky (forged bottom 355) good luck

 

I went with the splayed caps b/c they are stronger and for what you want to do it could help. I think you will be OK with the stock front main cap. I am going to that route too but for now I have to stick with my N/A+N2o setup b/c my wife will divorce me if buy any high dollar parts until next year. I think my car is putting down real close to 600rwhp on the 200shot I run. My car ran 11.24@120.8mph last nite at my local track N/A so I know it's making 430+rwhp N/A. They told me to leave b/c I don't have a rollbar so I didn't get to spray it. Goodluck. Later Clint

 

I make 600rwhp and it is not a 4 bolt. I just studded my two bolt.

 

I had 4 bolt splayed mains installed in mine when the 383 was built. I had been reving my last 2 bolt set up to 6500 to 6700 rpm and when they tore it down they showed me proof that the mains had been "Walking" and they had the ARP studs in there. I couldn't believe it. You could see the marks where the main caps met the block and it was obvious what was going on there. They told me that the main caps weren't machined deep enough or bolstered on the sides good enough for those rpms and deffinetly not good for the 383. So I asked how much for the splayed 4 bolt mains, thinking like a grand or so. Nope, only cost me another 400 bucks installed. For that price, I'll never build another small block 2 bolt without having it done. Nothing against anyone who doesn't do it, just my opinion and what I've seen.

 

If I was going to throw down the dough for 600rwhp, I'd splurge the extra couple/few hundred for 4-bolt mains.

 

most high hp engine failures break pistons or bend rods. has anyone here had a bottem end failure due to being a two bolt? i say spend the money else were.

 

Just remember this as a rule of thumb:

When building a drivetrain you have cheap, fast, and reliable; pick two.

Basically if you plan on building a high horsepower setup I wouldn't slack in any area if you want it to be sound. Overwise you might regret it down the road... I would personally throw down the extra cash for the 4bolt conversion. I would sleep better at night