i wanted to know is there an lt1 specific rod needed to be used in the lt1 block or can any rod for sbc fit in the lt1.

also would the 6" rod with a stroker crank be a 383 or 396 i know i am going to have to clearence the block for these things another ? is would i benifit from a floating wrist pin set-up or just a regular press in just wanted to know.

is there a specific part number for the eagle rods for a stroker set-up....

 

The length of the rod does not have an impact on cubic inches, the throw of the crank and the size of the bore are the main factors. I'm not sure if theres an advantage to the floating or press fit pins, but most of the kits I've seen have the floating. Not sure what the part #'s are, might be able to find that with a search.

 

I am running 6" rods/pistons in my setup, I was told that there is more TDC dwell time which leads to tiny gains. Maybe others will chime in on this.

 

1. WRD is correct on more dwell time at TDC, to help cylinder filling. 2. 6" rod has slightly better rod to piston angularity, said to enhance torque. 3. Foating pins use a bushed rod to give more oil wetted area to reduce friction, ie. revs quicker and higher R's safer, also enables quicker teardown. You must use a retainer ring in ends of piston to capture the pin, spiral locks are the best and safest. I also use the teflon plugs to insure no cyl. damage just in case lock fails especially the pin type lock rings if customer wants that kind. 4. Crank modification is needed to use any rod length other than stock. my .02 worth. Danny Mc

 

Those rods would be a excellant choice for about anything you plan to do to it. They should hold 650 HP with no problems. And if you are planning for a 383 stroker 6" is the way to go. If your going for a 396 i would probably go with a 5.875'' rod so you would have enough meat in the piston for a 5 or 6 cc spherical dish. The compression height is so short on the 6'' rod 396 that u dont have enough room for a dish. So u would have 3 choices 1 u could go with the shorter 5.875 rod and a dish piston to keep it pump gas friendly. 2 u could use the 6'' rod flat top and use a bigger chamber. 3 u could use the stock heads with 6'' flat top and run a big intake lobe to blead down the cyl pressure enough to get by with pump gas. Also if u run the 6'' rod in a 396 then nitrous is almost out of the question due to the top ring land being so short.

 

We have actually tested that theory on the dwell times and the results were so minute between a 5.7 and a 6'' rod that it was pretty tough to tell with a dial indicator and a degree wheel. I have also heard the theory that a long rod tends to accelerate from TDC at a much quicker rate than a short rod and a short rod accelerates to TDC at a quicker rate than a long rod. Man a spintron would be so cool to have. If only yall actually saw what happens inside a motor on a spintron u would be scared for life. Its pretty scary. You should see what a valve spring does inside a motor at high rpms

 

I would stay away from Eagle rods. My machinist didn't want to try clearencing my block with Eagle rods because the rod bolt profiles are tall and a significant amount of material has to be removed risking breaking into a waterjacket. I don't think he was underskilled, but rather over cautious. I went with a Compstar rod and the profile between the two was remarkable.

 

I stay away from eagle stuff, bad tolerances. Another point is that many people are using H-beam rods for no reason, a Manley Sportsmaster I-beam or Scat Pro-Comp I-beam will handle more than any power # you are going to have on the street, and is significantly lighter.

 

Not to quote anyone but doesnt the Scat's best I beam line claim 750hp? What's the main stress on rods...RPM's? Impact like N20?

-Dustin-

 

The highest stress on a rod is deceleration with load, usually pulls the cap off or loosens it so it comes apart. Next weak point is the neck at crank journal and at pin, shows up when rpm exceeds design of rod. A rod usually does not let go under positive load, valves in cyl most often causes destruction when under load. BUT if you suddenly unload the eng. at WOT you will definatly hurt it, then any or all of the above can happen. Danny Mc

 

Hell for all we know Eagle stuff may now contain lead paint and formaldehyde.

My machinist had to go the extra step to make sure the rod/main clearances were to spec as well as me having to machine my flywheel to fit over the crank as well as having to buy an over sized pilot bushing.
If I had it to do all over again I would've stayed away from Eagle all together. F-China!

 

I have a set in my car. they are six or so years old. they were checked out accordingly and passed.

I am not putting much power through them though......

 

Liar Liar pants on fire!

-Dustin-

 

No really only a 285 FWHP shot out of the hole not much....