Golen engine services (In this months GM-highTech) are selling some very nice 383 and 396 Forged Shortblocks for $3,499.00 Heres the link
http://www.golensengineservice.com/
Along with selling the Shortblocks they sell Long blocks as well for great prices.
I am looking into the 396 Competition shortblock, I know I need enough air to supply the cylinders to make enough power with the Extra cubes. I have a set of AFR 195 Lt4 heads setting here and I have talked to LE about porting them and my LT4 intake. The heads come stock with a 2.02 intake valve and we are upgrading to a 2.05 for the extra flow potential. I am not wanting to To FLOW RACE (thats what I usually call it when people rave about max flow) but to concentrate on making awsome mid range numbers and probably max out around 290ish CFM at .600 lift. I believe the most important flow is between .400 and .600 lift. I would not even think about going with a 396 without some proted AFR heads. I believe most people go with 355's and 383's because of head flow and USUALLY I suppose the cost.

I live in Northeast Arkansas about a hour and half from COMPCAMS, and I have 2 really good friends who work there, (one actually works in the FAST Department) and they are wanting to build the custom cam for my 396 and run some BEEHIVE SPRINGS on a Hyd Camshaft. I am kinda of scared of them making to big of a cam though. I don't want to run into PTV clearence issues and I have always heard the better the heads the least the cam size has to be. I know the main power is made in the Heads, cam, intake, and valvetrain. I just want my 396 to be very street friendly, BTW its a A4 3:73's with a 3000 stall probably going to upgrade to a 3500 and 3:42's. I think with a 396 I really don't need the 3:73's anymore and I will get slightly better fuel economy and still have all the power I need.

I am hoping to achieve around 530-550 Flywheel and about 450RWHP. I am almost certain I can achieve that. Golen actually sells a 396 LT4 Longblock with this setup

 

Sorry did not finish MY ORIGINAL THREAD ABOVE. Will finish shortly (accidently hit the submit thread,)

 

As I was saying Golen sells a 396 LT4 with is setup and is suppsoe to put our 520HP at 6200 and 515TQ at 4000. Heres the setup

Camshaft= COMPCAMS 236/242 585 intake 576 exhaust LIFT, 112 LSA Operating range is 2300-6200 Idle quality Good. 1.5's on intake and 1.6 on exhaust

Heads= AFR 195 heads CNC ported ( I believe this is Just the standard Port from AFR that flows at 262 at .600 lift) Stock 2.02 and 1.60 valves

Block: Thermally cleaned and Stainless-Steel Shot. Inspected by MPI process. Decked, bored, honed with torque-plates and pressure washed. Clevite cam bearings and pioneer brass freeze plugs installed. 4-bolt main caps.

Crank: Eagle 4340 Forged Steel 3.850" Internal Balance
Rods: Eagle Forged 5140 Steel SIR, 6" Length, Floating Pin
Pistons: SRP Forged
Rings: Speed-Pro Plasma-Moly
Bearings: Clevite H-Series Performance Main and Rod Bearings
Core Plugs: Brass Pioneer Core Plugs
Main Studs: ARP Performance Main Studs
Lifters: Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller
Pushrods: Comp Cams High-Energy
Valve Springs: AFR Performance
Rocker Arms: Comp Cams Aluminum Full-Roller Int 1.5 Ex 1.6
Timing Set: GM LT4 Roller Timing Set
Timing Cover: Recon Aluminum Timing Cover
Oil Delivery: Melling High Volume Pump, Pickup Tube and HD Drive
Oil Pan: New Factory 5-Quart
Gasket Set: Fel-Pro Performance
Head Bolts: ARP Performance Hex Head
ALL for about $7500.

I have a question about Camshaft Size and Cubic Inches?
Why is is a GM847 camshaft will sound radical IMO in a 350 and then sound calm in a 383 under the same setup. How much difference would there be from a 383 and a 396. Is it b/c of the stroke if so WHY?

When I get the motor finished I plan on trailering it to ED Wright in Tulsa (about 4.5 hours away) to get them to dyno tune my car. IMHO hes one of the best)

How about my fuel and ignition setup. I have a stock fuel system and I know 30-36lb injectors will be needed for sure. My ignition setup is controlled from a DELTEQ ( I love it )

I want my 396 to be mostly a NA setup but I would have intentions of putting on a 100 NX shot with a MAF kit a 150 max if My shortblock could handle it, (advice needed)

I know with a Torquey 396 I am going to eventually need a 12-bolt (I will be fine with my 10-bolt as long as I don't hook it ) and my A4 tranny will suffer for sure I plan on getting the stage 3 4l60E from speed INC Supposivly good for 800Hp and 750TQ tested on a 383 transmission testing unit.
I have alot of suspension already and even a few chasis mods including a K-member, TQ ARm, passenger side AIR bag, LCA, Relocation Brackets, etc

I am trying to figure in everything but I now for sure I need your guys help. I haven't posted a while b/c I have been in College. I am ready to go pretty quick.
Thanks for any help, P.S. I guess I need to change the screen name from T/A KID to T/A GUY, I am a little older now.

 

Anyone have any advice on my setup, or this 396 Forged block from Golen, They seem like a reputable company.

 

TA;
Your discourse is so lively I did not see the questions at first.it seems like you have planned a lot and if you ever do half of this plan you could have bought a new condo with the dough. Some steps seem fanciful but if you have the money, determination and the time you may get half of it done and drive it on the street too. Bigger cams are needed to fill bored and stroked engines to fill the larger cylinders. Taking the car to another state nmay not be necessary to get a dyno tune. Chat boards close to you may reveal local talent.

maddog

 

Heads/intake and cam are the biggest considerations here....

I'm putting together a daily driver, small stall "old man" streetable 396 now... 300cfm heads, good single plane, tame Hyd Roller... Should do 600+hp.

Bret

 

First of off I would like to say I read alot on this board, Everyday.
Brett I really pay attention to everything you talk about, especially camshafts If you was doing a setup similiar to mine for street use, what type of stall, gear, or camshaft selecetion might you do.

maddog05
For the setup I am wanting to achieve is probably not going to buy me a condo, lol. I am looking at about 5,500-6,000 for the motor Not including what I already have (AFR heads, LT4 intake, few other things)
2,000 for the tranny. Lets say 8,000 ( I know 12-bolt will be needed but I can wait, I love blowing off my Eagle Goodyear z06 supercar tires. )

I just sold my 05 NINJA 636, So I got the funds for the project, for once.
One of the really good friend of mine that works at Comp is a awsome mechanic, so as far as doing anything I can trust him (hes already done everything else for my car perfect.

 

If ya can make the LT-4's flow in the 300CFM range it will be easy.Remember when ya bolt the intake on ya will loose about 10% of your head flow,which would make what the piston sees about 270CFM.Then ya need a descent cam and ya are all set.
Ya wouldn't mind if it made a tad over 550FWHP would ya???

 

Actually.... what do you want to run? What do you want the car to do?

The 396 in question is on the tame end for me... 6,500 shift (safe to 7,000rpm) 3.23 gears, 2800stall, A4, tame duration, low overlap, agressive enough considering the springs, and lightweight valves in the equation.

I'm more of a M6, 4.10, 7500rpm street motor guy but that takes some mean heads to do.

Bret

 

Might even take more than 10% of the flow away....

Bret

 

LOL, yea 1racerdude 550 plus Flywheel would be nice, lol wouldn't it. In all aspects I think , let me rephrase that I KNOW the power I am looking for is attainable. I know flow will be hendered some with the intake, But as the same with any one elses LT1 or lt4 application. LE2 and LE3 lt1 heads flow at max usually 270-275 after a ported LT1 intake to match they probably only see 255 or so. Same with me If I can get 295 then a Ported LT4 intake I hope to see at least 275. I will let my good friends at comp grind what they believe will best satifiy my goals of making power and being street friendly.

Then throw the 100 shot into the mix, lol

 

Ya might see 275,but I don't think so.
Hell, go all out and give it a 300 shot out the hole and hang on when your eyes clear up---- shift..

 

If the car could run low 11's NA mid to high 10's with a 100 pill with a relative normal gear (3:42's or 3:73') with a tame stall (3000-3500), I want to keep the A4. I have even thought about a 3:23 and just keep my 3000 stall I already have. I want a tamed 396 and Usually I see 396's or bigger CI cars runing lower RPM's so I was hoping to be able to pull into the area of 6200-6500 If I could, how much RPM do you think could be in it. I know the stock computer has trouble after 7000 RPM. My buddy at comp says we could go for titanium vavles and I get everything at his cost, so thats a plus and money saver. He told me that the Beehives would help the car rev quicker and make more power. I have 1.7 RR's ON my existing car for the momet but I beleive a 1.5 rocker would rev faster would it not.

 

With a good train ya could take it to 7 if the head flow is enough that ya don't run out of wind and quit pulling.Thats why most shift at 6-6500--the car runs better at the lower RPM's and runs out of air above that and doesn't make HP.
You should have NO problem making 550FWHP with a hyd cam and everything spot on.I would venture to say 600@7000 if the DCR is in the 8.9-9.2 range for pump gas.

 

Well with a Final compression ratio of right at a 11.1 I should be able to run a 91+ octane at the pumps (I always run 93 anyways) but your right about the Dynamic compression ratio. 600 is quite a feat but I think I can get 550. It all depends on how well the AFR cylinder heads do with porting I suppose. I wish FAST made a LT4 intake. Funny thing is my Friend is one of the main guys in the Fast Department at COMP. I was over his house this last weekend and he had a 90MM Fast plastic intake manifold, wanting to put on my Brothers LS1 SS. I want to shut up the LS1's (for the most part, lol)