400RWHP+M6+spec stage 4+stock rear=boom?
#1
400RWHP+M6+spec stage 4+stock rear=boom?
Not to the 400 mark yet, but should be after my next project this summer
Doing a clutch/tranny swap now, planning on putting in a Spec stage 4. How is the stock rear with 3.42s going to like this? would it be any better with 4.11s and a T/A girdle?
You guys think the spec stage 4 is the clutch i need or should i go with something else?
I plan on running street tires and nittos at the track
Should i just start saving for a 12bolt?
I know this is really a drivetrain topic, but that forum seems pretty dead.
Doing a clutch/tranny swap now, planning on putting in a Spec stage 4. How is the stock rear with 3.42s going to like this? would it be any better with 4.11s and a T/A girdle?
You guys think the spec stage 4 is the clutch i need or should i go with something else?
I plan on running street tires and nittos at the track
Should i just start saving for a 12bolt?
I know this is really a drivetrain topic, but that forum seems pretty dead.
#2
Start saving.
The first pass I made with the Street Twin, drag radials, and the stock rear netted me about 350 pounds worth of scrap steel .
I am using another stock rear for the time being, but I don't dump the clutch anymore. I feather it out of the hole and I've been ok so far (1.9 60s with <330rwhp).
Ryan
The first pass I made with the Street Twin, drag radials, and the stock rear netted me about 350 pounds worth of scrap steel .
I am using another stock rear for the time being, but I don't dump the clutch anymore. I feather it out of the hole and I've been ok so far (1.9 60s with <330rwhp).
Ryan
#4
My SPEC stage III didn't break my rear and I've dumped the clutch LOTS! Altho it did bend my driveshaft causing it to explode at speeds of 100mph+. Just don't dead hook, spin the tires a little bit and the rear should do fine.
#5
Does the stage 4 have a little slip to it which would allow for decent daily driving?
If its like an on/off switch i wont get it lol. Anyone make a recommendation on which to get? ceramic or kevlar?
If its like an on/off switch i wont get it lol. Anyone make a recommendation on which to get? ceramic or kevlar?
#6
Spec has a stage 3 hybrid kevlar/ceramic clutch available. It's not on their website, but the part number is SC423H. I'm breaking it in right now. It does not chatter at all. It has good feel. I went with the hybrid because I'd heard that it takes a while for a pure stage 3 to settle down. I have a friend who took his stage 3 out because it chattered so much. He hated it. I think the hybrid is a good alternative.
#7
Why put all that into your ride if you are not going to be able to launch it with confidence. Do the 12 bolt, do it right, and save a tow from the track and a couple of weeks of frustration. There is always somebody who has been running 10's on the stock rear for five years with no problem but that person is never me.
I blew up my stocker with TA cover and 3.73's twice before I took the hint. Those were expensive mistakes.
I blew up my stocker with TA cover and 3.73's twice before I took the hint. Those were expensive mistakes.
#8
My stage III chattered for the first 500miles. It goes away after that. Very easy to drive in day to day traffic. The stage IV is supposed to feel exactly the same as III from what I hear. Do yourself a favor and get the stage IV ceramic. Thats what I'm putting in when my III disc finally goes.
#9
Originally posted by tnthub
I blew up my stocker with TA cover and 3.73's twice before I took the hint. Those were expensive mistakes.
I blew up my stocker with TA cover and 3.73's twice before I took the hint. Those were expensive mistakes.
#13
A buddy of mine did a tranny swap to an M6 with an LS1. It has the stage 4 clutch in it, and put 330 or so to the wheels. He made 1 good pass. A second pass attempt snapped the axle. This was on street tires.
I've got 340 to the wheels now and don't "dump" the clutch, but I bang the hell out of the gears. I've got the stage 2 and my rear is toast. It did last 126K miles though.
I've got 340 to the wheels now and don't "dump" the clutch, but I bang the hell out of the gears. I've got the stage 2 and my rear is toast. It did last 126K miles though.
#15
Street Twin is what you want if you want to hold a lot of power and last a long time.
Sure, some people have problems with everything but from what I have seen at the track, and from the folks I know who are still running standards, the Street Twin is the best option you have. The drawback the expense, but very few people have problems from what I have seen.
I was stupid back when I needed a replacement clutch and I bought a different brand because many people told me it would work great (at the time). Seven installations later and broken parts all around, I switched to an automatic. Had I gone with a Street Twin I would probably still be driving a standard.
Sure, some people have problems with everything but from what I have seen at the track, and from the folks I know who are still running standards, the Street Twin is the best option you have. The drawback the expense, but very few people have problems from what I have seen.
I was stupid back when I needed a replacement clutch and I bought a different brand because many people told me it would work great (at the time). Seven installations later and broken parts all around, I switched to an automatic. Had I gone with a Street Twin I would probably still be driving a standard.