Ok I am finishing up my 383 shortblock and need some igntion help. I want to be able to shift this setup which consists of: Eagle forged crank, H-beams, SRP forged pistons, ballanced, Lloyd E solid roller 240/250@50 650ish lift, LE3's and intake with 58mm T.B. and 42#injectors. I will be doing the tuning using Tunercat so I want to know what works best with the factory PCM setup and tried a new GM opti but it blew the rotor apart so i riveted it but had misfires so what to do. I talked to Ben from the board and he has the quickest to date stock PCM record of 9.92@13X and he swore by the Dynaspark but I like the 8 coil setup and have a set of coils so how about the Dyna 3 with the coil per cylinder anybody having any luck with those? I have heard nothing good about MSD and LTCC is hard to reach so what do you guys find is the best setup for high rpm use? I am even thinking about drilling a hole in my intake and putting a distributor back there, can it be done with the stock PCM and which one will work. Please post pics with some of your setups. Thanks for any help

 

I have the delteq setup, 4 coils, 2 cylinders per coil mounted on the drivers side valve cover. Unfortunately it appears they are out of buisness. It sucks 2 because this is pretty much a plug and play kit, it installed in less than a cpl hours and fired right up.

 

The LTCC is a good setup. Be patient in contacting them.

Tell us more about the "Dyna 3" coil per cylinder setup. Haven't heard of it before.

 

My email is bob<AT>bailey-eng<DOT>com

or you can PM me thru the board

Let me know if I can help you.

Bob

 

Been using the good ol' opti with 7200rpm shift points for over a year and 3000 miles.

 

The Dyna 3 is just a Dynaspark made specifically for setups like the LTCC and what not. Basically it is a sealed unit, with nothing other than the optical sensor, no plug-ins for wires or anything.

 

Well guys thanks to CZ28.com b/c I had an older LTCC, got thru a trade with someobody, but had no instructions or if it worked but I pm'd "Turbo Bob" Bob bailey, and he sent me his address so i boxed up my parts and shippied them his way. Since I have a new optispark, it should do ok for signaling and I'll remove the rotor. Then once I get the LTCC back from Bob all I should have to do is plug it in and off to the dyno. Looks like I'll give this a try and give you guys the results of 7000rpm pulls and a few passes. Anyone got pics of the coils mounted in different spots?

 

Yup...

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...ne/Coils01.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/CoilsL.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/CoilsR.jpg

Its not the LTCC setup, but it works pretty much the same, using the Opti cam signal as a reference. Been running this setup for 8 years.

 

Nice Fred, I remember seeing those pics a few years back but didn't remember which car, Are those just the regular MSD custom wiires for an LS1? I think I am going to mount my coils either there or under the cowl. Thanks clint

 

That is an MSD cut-to-fit set.

 

This is what I don't understand. A LTCC type setup still depends on the mechanical function of an opti spark... I thought the idea to go "distributorless" was to get away from those components which are deemed undependable?
Seems like a huge waste of time, money and trouble if the optispark is still used as a relying component.

 

I realize that you are playing devils advocate here, and I know you are aware of how much more reliable the opti is then many people are led to believe - but I'm going to play along anyway .

The sensor portion is a hell of a lot more reliable then the cap and rotor. When totally sealed like the DS3 it can last ages...the sensor is actually made by mitsubishi and is used in other vehicles without ever having problems.

IMO a GM OEM opti base w/ the stronger MSD cap and rotor is plenty for almost every LT1...I have been running that for two years so far without problems, knock on wood.

The opti does not bother me on LT1s, the lack of tuning capabilities does .

 

I appreciate the response. It really is an honest question. It makes sense the Dyna 3 would be more reliable since w/out the rotor it has less moving parts- or at least less to go wrong, but I don't think many purchase this component and just use their stock opti along with the LTCC stuff...

 

The big problem with the optical section is not the module, but the rust that forms inside the Opti. The rust particles collect in the emitter/receptor area of the optical module, and blind it. The rust formation appears to be caused or at least accelerated, by ozone generated by the high voltage spark in the cap/rotor function. The vent was added by GM specifically to remove the ozone (not moisture). Using only the optical sensor, and getting rid of the "spark" function would appear to reduce the rust, and improve the performance of the optical module.

I chose the 8-coil approach because I had seen it work on a very high boost/high HP LT1 setup. I thought that's the direction I was going in, but never took my nitrous setup beyond 800HP. Probably overkill, but it has proven to be reliable. My original unvented Opti was setting DTC 16 due to the rust in the optical module, and was causing problems on the stock engine at about 40,000 miles. But I also run an aftermarket ECU capable of driving the 8-coil setup directly, without needing an outboard device, so it seemed like the logical way to go.

 

I love my LTCC setup. I would not trade for the world. The best part about the LTCC is that you can set rev limit, pull timing, and has built in 2 step. Its a very expandable unit.