Is a 383 stroker really worth the $$$
Is a 383 stroker really worth the $$$
I've been setting here debating and I dont know what to do
I have a 93 LT1 with 92000 miles on it setting here looking at me. I really want to stroke the motor out just because either I'm going to rebuild it, or go ahead and stroke it. I'm just wondering if it's really worth the money??? When eveerything is said and done, I would really like to keep it under $2000. I know I can do this if I just rebuild, but I really do want a stroker. Am I really going to feel the diffrence when I press the gas?? Or should I just rebuild, throw a cam in and let it be??
I have a 93 LT1 with 92000 miles on it setting here looking at me. I really want to stroke the motor out just because either I'm going to rebuild it, or go ahead and stroke it. I'm just wondering if it's really worth the money??? When eveerything is said and done, I would really like to keep it under $2000. I know I can do this if I just rebuild, but I really do want a stroker. Am I really going to feel the diffrence when I press the gas?? Or should I just rebuild, throw a cam in and let it be??
It really depend's on what you wanna do. I mean if you just wanna freshen up the motor then just tear it apart, buy some new ring's and bearings and call it good. Maybe even toss some head's and cam on there while your at it. But if you wanna replace the whole bottom end and do some serious racing, then I would go with a 383. Your gonna have to buy new rod's crank and piston's anyway's so might as well get what you want. Look around on the internet man, there's SOOOO many place's to get engine part's for hella cheap, just gotta do your research
I was gonna go 383 or 396, but now I'm think a built 355. I decided that my power goals were not high enough to justify spending the extra money to go with a stroker. A 355 can handle what I want to do nicely, besides I need all the extra money for the 427 BBC car my Dad and I are building
something to think about. 383 has longer stroke. more torqe, but not really a good high reving engine. a smaller stroke may have a little less low end, but have a better high end.
basically longer crank through gives good hole shot but dies off on top end. shorter crank is better for high revs.
just something to think about. i dont know the details exactly, but i have changed my mind in the 383.
basically longer crank through gives good hole shot but dies off on top end. shorter crank is better for high revs.
just something to think about. i dont know the details exactly, but i have changed my mind in the 383.
Originally posted by slowpoke96z28
will a 355 last as long making the kind of power you want to make as a 383 or a 396?
will a 355 last as long making the kind of power you want to make as a 383 or a 396?
I too was debating this.
I have finally decided to go with a forged bottom end 355 with a head and cam package.
On my desktop dyno the 355 I want to build makes 501 HP and 509 TQ.
I would be happy with a mid to low 12 car so I cant justify the extra cake for the stroker.
I have finally decided to go with a forged bottom end 355 with a head and cam package.
On my desktop dyno the 355 I want to build makes 501 HP and 509 TQ.
I would be happy with a mid to low 12 car so I cant justify the extra cake for the stroker.
Originally posted by revtime
I too was debating this.
I have finally decided to go with a forged bottom end 355 with a head and cam package.
On my desktop dyno the 355 I want to build makes 501 HP and 509 TQ.
I would be happy with a mid to low 12 car so I cant justify the extra cake for the stroker.
I too was debating this.
I have finally decided to go with a forged bottom end 355 with a head and cam package.
On my desktop dyno the 355 I want to build makes 501 HP and 509 TQ.
I would be happy with a mid to low 12 car so I cant justify the extra cake for the stroker.
Re: Is a 383 stroker really worth the $$$
Originally posted by cdcamaro95383
I've been setting here debating and I dont know what to do
I have a 93 LT1 with 92000 miles on it setting here looking at me. I really want to stroke the motor out just because either I'm going to rebuild it, or go ahead and stroke it. I'm just wondering if it's really worth the money??? When eveerything is said and done, I would really like to keep it under $2000. I know I can do this if I just rebuild, but I really do want a stroker. Am I really going to feel the diffrence when I press the gas?? Or should I just rebuild, throw a cam in and let it be??
I've been setting here debating and I dont know what to do
I have a 93 LT1 with 92000 miles on it setting here looking at me. I really want to stroke the motor out just because either I'm going to rebuild it, or go ahead and stroke it. I'm just wondering if it's really worth the money??? When eveerything is said and done, I would really like to keep it under $2000. I know I can do this if I just rebuild, but I really do want a stroker. Am I really going to feel the diffrence when I press the gas?? Or should I just rebuild, throw a cam in and let it be??
If the 355 runs good, just tell folks it's a 383!
My $.02
With a $2,000.00 budget I would not recommend a stroker. You will find other things that need attention once you get into it like many bolt on's that may need replacement or rebuilding too, wires, hoses, and all the crap that comes with re-doing a motor. Don't forget your tranny has all those miles too. When I did my stroker the very first pass I slipped the tranny and needed to spend money on a rebuild for that.
Originally posted by revtime
I too was debating this.
I would be happy with a mid to low 12 car so I cant justify the extra cake for the stroker.
I too was debating this.
I would be happy with a mid to low 12 car so I cant justify the extra cake for the stroker.
Originally posted by gb95zconv
I really dont understand why everyone thinks it cost so much more to biuld a 383......I went that way because it doesnt cost that much more. The only extra cost is for clearancing the block and thats only $125....you could do it yourself for free. The forged rotating parts cost the same.
I really dont understand why everyone thinks it cost so much more to biuld a 383......I went that way because it doesnt cost that much more. The only extra cost is for clearancing the block and thats only $125....you could do it yourself for free. The forged rotating parts cost the same.
If your still running stock heads and cam... its def. not worth doing a 383. Your gonna need a good topend to go along with the 383 to make power. There was a guy long time ago that built him a 383 and used stock heads and cam and he only put out ~305rwhp and ~335rwtq
with a $2k budget I would refreash the bottom, new rings, bearings, and get a cam.
rings~$90
bearings~$54
bore & clean block~$116
reconditon stock rods ~$96
balancing ~$150
oilpump~$25
timing chain~$80
cam~$250
1.6rr~$260
gonna need valvesprings with cam~$not an idea on price
pushrods~80
headgaskets~35/ea
felpor exhaust gaskets~$16
felprointake gasket~$20
felpro timing set gasket~$14
arp rod bolts ~$42
pay engine assembly~$dont know
just an idea of the stuff most ppl forgot about and its alot more i have prolly left out. i went off prices around here.. might be different in other areas. hope this gives you a better idea
save up for some ported heads to put on later... IMO
-Santore
with a $2k budget I would refreash the bottom, new rings, bearings, and get a cam.
rings~$90
bearings~$54
bore & clean block~$116
reconditon stock rods ~$96
balancing ~$150
oilpump~$25
timing chain~$80
cam~$250
1.6rr~$260
gonna need valvesprings with cam~$not an idea on price
pushrods~80
headgaskets~35/ea
felpor exhaust gaskets~$16
felprointake gasket~$20
felpro timing set gasket~$14
arp rod bolts ~$42
pay engine assembly~$dont know
just an idea of the stuff most ppl forgot about and its alot more i have prolly left out. i went off prices around here.. might be different in other areas. hope this gives you a better idea
save up for some ported heads to put on later... IMO
-Santore
Last edited by dobe; Sep 30, 2003 at 02:47 PM.


