Ok, so Im kicking around the idea for a 383 stroker LT1 in my Monte. The current 350 LT1 has a nice rod knock, and it seems like a good time to gain some cubes, as my car is heavy as hell, and the extra torque would be nice (not that my cammed LT1 was bad, but more is always better)

After some searching, Im seeing that LT1 383 kits are more expensive than traditional SBC 383 kits. I know that the traditional 383 kit will work, but Im wondering what needs to be done about the lack of a keyway on the LT1 crank/balancer hub. Can I just get a regular 383 kit and put the balancer hub on? Or are hubs made for the LT1 that have the keyways? What's the deal, I know others have encountered this before. TIA.

 

A 383 stroker kit for the LT1 w/ a Scat9000 cast 1pc rear main seal crank can be had for way under $1000.

What are your goals with the engine?

www.adperformance.com Give him a call/e-mail and get a price. You'd be surprised.

 

I understand that, but my question was not how much does it cost, but what to do about the keyway between the gen 1 and 2 SBCs.

Naturally, Im looking for this to be as cheap (with quality parts) as possible, and am just looking for a way to save some green, and thought using the traditional 383 setup could be a way.

If I go with a 383, I will need forged pistons, as Nitrous will not be far behind.

 

I'm confused. AFAIK the only thing about the rotating assy. for an LT1 that's at all different from other SBC RA's is that the crank is the one-piece rear main seal design? If you want to key your LT1 hub, you can have a machine shop cut a keyway for you. Or just use it without keying it, as this doesn't seem to cause a problem. But I don't think your premise about price differences is correct in the first place.

Rich Krause

 

Thunder racing sells keyed hubs for LT1's.

 

I just bought my stroker a parts yesterday; cost me $890.00 shiped
Scat 9000 $220, Eagle H ESP rods$386, all bearings$100, piston rings$100 and arp bolts for the mains $60, now just need the pistons. Got it from combination motor sports.
Cameron

 

apparantly I was the one confused. I know on my 94 LT1 (out of a B-body) did not have a keyway cut on the crank and hub. since I have not looked at a keyed crank in a few years, I guess I was thinking that the keyway extruded out from the crank, and using an unkeyed hub would not let it go on the crank due to the key way sticking out, and the hub not having the cooresponding piece missing. oops!