Last night I finally fired up my new 383. When I added coolant prior to the startup I noticed the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump was leaking. I started it anyway and it runs awesome but of course it overheated real quick. Way are the pros and cons of using an electric pump over a cam driven, what should I go with? And any other tips on how to keep this bad boy cool would be greatly appreciated, thanks a lot guys

 

Pros - Dyno-proven 8-10whp gain, more control over the cooling system (can circulate coolant with the engine off), allows for use of a double roller timing chain.

Cons - They eventually will fail with no warning, flow less GPM at higher RPMs than the stock one.

 

I've ran the CSR ewp for about 8 years without issue. My first pump lasted 4 1/2 years or about 24k miles. I knew two weeks before it failed that it was going to because it made noise. I kept a very close eye on the temp at that point. It will blow the fuse and stop working but I made it home 4 fuses later. I have a spare so in less than 30 minutes I'm back in business. Sent the bad one in for repair and they sent back a new one for like $80.00.

 

i run the stock unit, i dont want to blow up my engine while driving around town when the EWP goes bad and im looking out the window at some girls asses on the beach. If i were racing and looking for a little more then i would go EWP if im driving on the street Stocker.

 

What about the thermostat, should I go with a 160 or 180

 

Wire in a warning light in your WP circuit and you will know exactly when it pops a fuse.

 

Wire in a buzzer along with the light and it will get your attention immediately.

 

The lower temp thermostat won't do you much good without running the fans at the lower temps either by PCM programming or a manual fan switch.

 

What about a new radiator? Is there a higher performance one that will fit in the stock housing and keep it cooler

 

Be cool makes a larger capacity aluminum one, around 600$, My stock one coold my 383 just fine.

 

I have a 97 LT1 383 that is FI. I would run in the top range of temp, but get hot when idle. So, I did the following after reading Ray Bohaz cooling systems book.
Had the be-cool 4 core rad.
Moved the rad forward.
Converted to Evans NPG.
No thermostat. Made my own insert to block the bypass.
Run a Mez HD pump.
Run the fans high all the time.
Reduced flow from cylinder head coolant return I think helped with my set-up.

Runs ice cold in 90deg weather. Lower/ below 160 mark on gage when cruzing.
Engine runs very strong, but, I had to flash the PCM to improve the performance. The electric pump option is very easy to turn on/ off and change the WP w/o messing with the mechanical pump drive.

B.

 

The stock radiator is more than capable.

 

I guess its getting hot fast because I havnt tried moving it yet, thanks for the help guys

 

The cooling problem is fixed, thanks again for all your help

 

so what was the problem you fixed for the thread followers?