383 or LE3
#1
383 or LE3
I think im going with the 383 for sure now. I'm still not sure how much its going to cost me yet. But I wanted to know what some of you guys would go with. Just curious to see what everyone thinks.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Re: 383 or LE3
Uh we have no idea what you have or what you want to acomplish with this set up. What heads you going to use if you 383? and give us some more info. I would say LE 2.5 if you have a good bottom end.
#7
Re: 383 or LE3
Originally Posted by 1993z28camaro
The guy said that I could use my stock heads just p&p job and through in a cam and make around 430hp.
430 rwhp is about 500 fwhp on an M6. You'll need some pretty good heads and cam. Talk to Lloyd Elliott.
430 fwhp is about 360 rwhp on an M6. That's doable with stock heads and stock displacement:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...4&page=1&pp=15
It's a lot more than "throwing a cam at it", but it's tons cheaper than building up a 383. Look realistically at your budget. How many thousands can you spend?
#8
Re: 383 or LE3
Originally Posted by 1993z28camaro
The guy said that I could use my stock heads just p&p job and through in a cam and make around 430hp.
I agree with the 383+LE3 statment above, if money is a problem(it is what limits most of us) then you have to decide on a medicore 383 with stockish heads or a screamer of a 350.
#9
Re: 383 or LE3
Money is an issue. Im trying to get a hold of the guy today to see what he's come up with and how much h/p at the real wheels i can expect. How much is the LE3 to make it functional. I think I figured it up to be around 2,500 for everything except labor. But has anyone done that on their car and know a more exact price? As soon as i get the info. I will let you guys know everything to see what you think. Hopfully Sunday?
#10
Re: 383 or LE3
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
With a mild head cleanup you would maybe get that at the flywheel which would only be 365 at the wheels asuming a rather low 15% loss in the drivetrain. If he is talking about doing some real porting why not just let Lloyd do it you are bound to get better results from someone who knows the LT1 castings so well. What I see here is you failing to realize you are going to pay someone for porting if you want to make power with a 383 your choice is LE or your local guy, a cam you have to buy either way so it is almost a fixed cost. So it comes down to who do you want to spend your money with Lloyd or the local guy who do you think will give you a better value for your porting dollar?
I agree with the 383+LE3 statment above, if money is a problem(it is what limits most of us) then you have to decide on a medicore 383 with stockish heads or a screamer of a 350.
I agree with the 383+LE3 statment above, if money is a problem(it is what limits most of us) then you have to decide on a medicore 383 with stockish heads or a screamer of a 350.
#12
Re: 383 or LE3
Originally Posted by gogogadget
Compared to...?
#13
Re: 383 or LE3
I'm doing a 383 with an LE3 package now. I wanted a budget 500 horse engine. well, semi-budget.
I got extremely lucky and found an assembled 383 short block with eagle crank, rods, srp pistons, arp hardware, vented opti, lt4 ED timing chain, and cc306 cam (which im going to sell) for relatively cheap.
My whole setup has cost me so far:
Short block: $2550
LE3 heads & cam: $1650
LE ported LT1 intake: $90(for the intake)+$125(for the porting)
7/16 NSA 1.6 RRs: $272
comp R lifters: $220
7/16 studs: $30
comp hi-tech 7.2" pushrods: $120
GM guideplates (8): $27
LT4 Valve Covers: $150
I still need larger injectors, LT4 KM, larger throttle body, and a tune.
I figure...
Racetronix 42lb injectors: $280
LT4 KM: forget price and dont feel like looking up... $30?
52/58mm throttle body: $260-$470 depending on which one I buy.
Madz28 tune: $90 (will get her dyno tuned, so add that to the cost)
add up all the stuff and it gets expensive. budget... what the hell was I thinking!?
IF you shop around for lower prices, buy used parts, and buy "not as good" parts, it drops. I coulda saved over $50 buy shopping around for parts.
don't go with a larger tb, go with smaller injectors, use stock studs and 3/8" roller rockers, keep stock valve covers, dont opt for a ported intake, go with cheaper pushrods, buy an off the shelf cam instead of the LE3 cam (such as the CC306 that I'll be getting rid of soon ), I think the new LE3 heads come with beehive style springs that all the usage of stock lifters... not quite sure on that one... but that would save some $$$.
also take into account that youre probably gonna break things. rear end, tranny, clutch, bones in your body. I took into account these... and the fact that if any of those happens to me she'll be down for quite a while!
I got extremely lucky and found an assembled 383 short block with eagle crank, rods, srp pistons, arp hardware, vented opti, lt4 ED timing chain, and cc306 cam (which im going to sell) for relatively cheap.
My whole setup has cost me so far:
Short block: $2550
LE3 heads & cam: $1650
LE ported LT1 intake: $90(for the intake)+$125(for the porting)
7/16 NSA 1.6 RRs: $272
comp R lifters: $220
7/16 studs: $30
comp hi-tech 7.2" pushrods: $120
GM guideplates (8): $27
LT4 Valve Covers: $150
I still need larger injectors, LT4 KM, larger throttle body, and a tune.
I figure...
Racetronix 42lb injectors: $280
LT4 KM: forget price and dont feel like looking up... $30?
52/58mm throttle body: $260-$470 depending on which one I buy.
Madz28 tune: $90 (will get her dyno tuned, so add that to the cost)
add up all the stuff and it gets expensive. budget... what the hell was I thinking!?
IF you shop around for lower prices, buy used parts, and buy "not as good" parts, it drops. I coulda saved over $50 buy shopping around for parts.
don't go with a larger tb, go with smaller injectors, use stock studs and 3/8" roller rockers, keep stock valve covers, dont opt for a ported intake, go with cheaper pushrods, buy an off the shelf cam instead of the LE3 cam (such as the CC306 that I'll be getting rid of soon ), I think the new LE3 heads come with beehive style springs that all the usage of stock lifters... not quite sure on that one... but that would save some $$$.
also take into account that youre probably gonna break things. rear end, tranny, clutch, bones in your body. I took into account these... and the fact that if any of those happens to me she'll be down for quite a while!
#14
Re: 383 or LE3
Well, I'm actually getting a 383 built up this month (spun rod bearings suck, but they're a damn good excuse for a bottom end...). You can have a monster 10,000 ci motor, but if the heads aren't up to the task it's still not gonna make good power (well at least not for a 10,000 ci motor, but thats the beer talking....)
#15
Re: 383 or LE3
what shop are you talking with to have this work done?
Unless you have 7-10K to spend a stroker build up done properly a heads & cam swap would be your best bet.
As long as your engine is healthly and you could have a compression test and leak down test done to verify this. You will probably make almost the same power if not more by just doing heads and cam from Lloyd
Unless you have 7-10K to spend a stroker build up done properly a heads & cam swap would be your best bet.
As long as your engine is healthly and you could have a compression test and leak down test done to verify this. You will probably make almost the same power if not more by just doing heads and cam from Lloyd