383 kit
Re: 383 kit
from what ive seen and heard the LE3 package acts like the LE2 in a 350... you want the 383 to breathe and plus more power... about the 383 kit everybody has their own opinions... just make sure its forged since i see NO2 on the way
Re: 383 kit
I wonder if you are going about this the right way. If you are having someone build the motor, you should speak with them about specific parts to be used. They will have their preferred items which they know will work properly together hased on prior experience. After that discussion, let them order the parts. They are then responsible for the final product if something isn't right. If you have supplied parts, it creatres an ambiguous situation.
If you are building the motor yourself, or just want to be educated about rotating assemblys, you need to more specific about your intended use and budget. Things like how much N2O you plan to use, and so on, would be quite useful. In general though, you want to buy a complete, balanced RA from a single vendor.
As far as specific parts, Bret Bauer, who knows a lot and posts here, is a big booster of the new Howard's PM rods, you might look into those. I am partial to the Lunati "Pro-Mod" rod for a moderate price rod. Lots of people use Eagle, but I am very biased against Chinese stuff and therefore don't like them. Lunati and Callies make some very nice moderate price cranks and Callies is a good place to buy the entire RA assembly balanced and with bearings and rings. I like JE/SRP pistons, but Ross. Diamond, and others are also nice.
You need to have decided on a cam and heads before you can order a RA. These determine the CR and therefore the pistons needed.
Rich
If you are building the motor yourself, or just want to be educated about rotating assemblys, you need to more specific about your intended use and budget. Things like how much N2O you plan to use, and so on, would be quite useful. In general though, you want to buy a complete, balanced RA from a single vendor.
As far as specific parts, Bret Bauer, who knows a lot and posts here, is a big booster of the new Howard's PM rods, you might look into those. I am partial to the Lunati "Pro-Mod" rod for a moderate price rod. Lots of people use Eagle, but I am very biased against Chinese stuff and therefore don't like them. Lunati and Callies make some very nice moderate price cranks and Callies is a good place to buy the entire RA assembly balanced and with bearings and rings. I like JE/SRP pistons, but Ross. Diamond, and others are also nice.
You need to have decided on a cam and heads before you can order a RA. These determine the CR and therefore the pistons needed.
Rich
Re: 383 kit
2 grand is impossible to build a 383 with supporting parts...The le3 kit is going to run you 1800 right off the bat, not including, injectors, headers, tb, tuning, the entire bottom end, labor, etc...
Re: 383 kit
A GOOD high HP 383 will run ya $16,000-18,000 in parts for a 650+HP version that will live.Thats ALL motor and no labor for assembly or R&R.
Lower HP version's can be built but they run in the 10-13,000 dollar range.
If ya want to play around build your engine and put a butt load of hose on it.
Lower HP version's can be built but they run in the 10-13,000 dollar range.
If ya want to play around build your engine and put a butt load of hose on it.
Re: 383 kit
Golen engines 383 or 396 competition short block (all forged) with bells and whistles $4505
LE3 head and cam package $1800
LT1 intake with direct port Nitrous $650 used
Thats what I am planning, 7 grand just for that and I have alot of the supporting cast already in the car and my total will come darn close to 10 G.
Of course a NA motor could be done for alot less.
Go bolt ons first, it will give you some good face time with the car and get to know its ins and outs and what it will take to perform major surgery.
LE3 head and cam package $1800
LT1 intake with direct port Nitrous $650 used
Thats what I am planning, 7 grand just for that and I have alot of the supporting cast already in the car and my total will come darn close to 10 G.
Of course a NA motor could be done for alot less.
Go bolt ons first, it will give you some good face time with the car and get to know its ins and outs and what it will take to perform major surgery.


