Just started up the beast for the first time. Followed a good break procedure. I think its bad gas, but it stalls out if I am not on the accellerator. Pcm for less tune for mods.

Is it my cam or bad gas?

Adv dur. 280 INT. 276 EXH
@.50 224. 224
Lift. .563 .566
114 lsa
1.6 rrs

Any advice would be appreciated


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Oh, procharger p600b

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It could be a lot of things - Assuming your timing chain is on right, and aside from possible tuning mistakes, I'd say look at the scan data and make sure everything is working, all cables are connected, O2 sensors are working, sensor feedback, check your rocker arm adjustments, check for vacuum leaks, open your throttle body adjustment a little, etc... Hard to tell over the internet with 0 information.

 

Thanks. Timing chain is fine. Vacuum us good too.

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I have some work to do. Im just glad that it turns on for now. I really just want to know if that is a wild blower cam.

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Prob not your cam, its not too crazy for a 383 and its a 114* lsa, so it should idle "ok".

Im using the CC306 230/244 .54X/.57X and 112* (1.6RRs). When I got got mine together and fired it up I had idle issues as well. I dont have a blower though, so I dunno if its affecting it. but I was using the same cam with stock displacement with no issues.

My issue was that I needed to crack the throttle blades open more with the adjustment screw. So much that i needed to buy an adjustable TPS sensor to get the voltage at idle right.

Before the IAC was maxing out at 120, now I think it sits at about 30-40 when warm.

My guess is that the bigger engine needed more air to idle correctly. *shrug*

 

That cam is pretty tame for a stock displacement build.

 

The page isn't working right now but suffice to say you are clueless about how the LT1 idle circuit works.
http://members.***.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/#stocktbi

Far as the OP I would look at idle air counts and see if it is simple as correcting the bleed hole size(if the link comes back up you will understand), stuck IAC motor, misadjusted valves, or a screwed up tune. I had a LOT of problems with pcmforless before I moved on.

If you "spun the pushrods" to find zero lash when adjusting the valves that is probably the problem. That method is hugely popular with newbs and very commonly causes issues with much too tight preload hanging the valves open.

 

Thanks guys, I'll check all that and get back to you. When I preloaded it I left it on the looser side, but I did do the spin method. I have all winter to go over my animal.

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With "spin the pushrod" you have the oily ball ends of the pushrod in the oily seats on the rocker and lifter. You actually have significant pressure on the pushrod before there is enough drag to feel.

Besides with roller rockers you just spin the polylock down till it touches.

Zero lash is when the pushrod can not move up and down between the lifter and rocker anymore.

All traces of "spin the pushrod" should be stricken from the internet, well except maybe that info saying how is causes way too many problems.

 

I agree with this for the reasons mentioned. If it has to be a feel thing, either take the 'shake' out of the pushrods or just hand tighten the posi-lok till you feel a little resistance, then go from there. Or do it when it's running. I do a static adjustment and never had a problem - it just takes a little finesse and no binding parts that confuse the adjustment. Sure seems like a lot of people screw this up.

 

The first time I adjusted valves probably 12-13 years ago on a different completely stock car with a 305 I did the "spin the pushrod" thing and the car would barely idle, quickly learned from the mistake. A mechanic had told me to do it that way. In the end it was a exhaust manifold gasket leak anyway. Because just like everyone starts with the "spin the pushrod" thing everyone incorrectly assumes a tick is a lifter and it just about NEVER is.

 

Update: Car will not start now. Adjusted valves and tried to fire car up to no avail. Had the icm checked and its fine. The car is definately getting fuel. Going to check the coil, but the car will sputter every once in a while so I dont think it's that... I also adjusted the throttle blades slightly, but did not drill hole out more (it is a stock tb :/). No engine light. Any words of wisdom? I'm so sick of troubleshooting....... Ugh.

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Fuel filter changed and pump primes at 40 lb, is that low?

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not really, ideally it should be 43.5 psi with the car running and the vacuum line disconected. The car will "run" at 40 psi.

You talked about adjusting your valves, hopefully you didnt adjust them too tight. A chiltons manual does a great job of describing the valve adjustment procedure.