i have a 383 with canton oil pan.the rods or crank is hitting the side of the pan. It wasnt hitting when i bolted it up on the engine stand. now it is in the car i hear a banging on the pass side of the pan I thought maybe it was the rockers hitting the canton valve cover. But it isnt . Any ideas on fixing it without pull the motor? thanks Al

 

Man that sucks. I wonder how the clearance changed on you?? bump for you. What rods are you using BTW?

 

I had the same problem with my 396 and Canton oil pan. The noise was real faint when the motor was cold, but as it heated up and the rod/pan material expanded slightly, the rods would contact the crank scraper on the passenger side of the pan even more, making a louder noise. I already had the motor out of the car as I was ready to pull the bottom end apart, until I saw the two spots where the rods were contacting the pan:

http://myweb.cableone.net/97bowtie/rodpan.jpg

Here's my thread on this topic:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...ghlight=canton

Unfortunately, there's no way to fix this w/out pulling the pan. I don't think you can pull the Canton pan w/out at a minimum, unbolting the motor mounts and jacking the motor up and pulling it partially out the top. Once you have the pan out, grind the pan where you can see the rods were hitting. Be sure to clean the pan real well before reassembling. You don't want any metal shavings left in the pan (there will be some from the rods/pan contacting).

It seems that these Canton 7 qt. pans need to be clearanced for all 383/396 rotating assemblies, and it seems like many engine builders miss this.

Good luck.

 

more than likely you have a rod hitting no easy way to fix with out dropping the pan. When you bolted the pan down did you put your ear on the pan and turn over the engine? You really can't hear it that well unless you have your ear on the pan. you can drop the K-member out and unbolt the pan. it's not as bad as what it looks to do it's actually pretty simple . When you get the pan off just take a hammer and beat the crank scrapper down. FYI you will want to change your oil and filter a couple of times I would let the engine run for about 20 mins then change it and then maybe 50 miles and do it again. you will find alot of metal in your filter when you pull it off. Good luck

 

I clearanced mine with the gasket left out, for a margin of safety. I suggest doing it that way for all that may read this during their builds.

 

That is a good idea. I have not had any clearancing issues so far with the gasket in, but I will definitely take this advise.

 

Thanks for all the info, i will let you guys know how i make out . I am going to pull the pan. lucky for me i have a lift in my yard. I can not beleave this happen. I spun the motor over on the engine stand and didnt hear nothing. thanks again Al

 

3 hour to take the pan off and get it back on. The 2 front rod were hitting a little bit. I drop the starter and jack the motor up it was tuff getting it off, but i got it.i think if i turned the motor over getting number 1 rod up it might have came right out. I hammer the oil scaper a little.i didnt feel like grinding it then trying to clean it but thanks for the help Al