okay so i know theres a million different camshaft threads out there and let me tell you ive read through a lot of them but everyones needs are different and i really want to get some opinions specifically on my build. anyways im going with a 383 and i dont run at the track much if any. i like torque but i want good horsepower, its going in with stock heads and im going to try a self head port, after lots of reading about it. anyways is a cc306 crazy for a guy whos not really going to be spinning that car past 6k? i have a cc305 right now and im just wondering if thats going to be too small to feed the 383? what do you think. custom grind i know would be optimal but im just going to go with a shelf cam.

 

o and im using the Ex612 springs so id really like to use a cam that these springs can handle as far as lift goes. i think these are good to almost .600 lift? im not worried about valve float past 6k cause i wont be spinning it that fast like i said.

 

anybody? would a cc306 feed a 383 significantly better than a cc305? would its characteristic loss of torque be as noticable on a 383?

 

This answer is probably not gonna be one that you like, but I say keep the CC-305 for now, and I hope you plan on doing heads in the future. Even self ported heads won't yield the results you look to be seeking. I would rather have a very budget 355 with heads of that nature then a 383. Basically what your gonna have is a pickup truck engine on your hands, torquey, low HP, low RPM capability. I would try to think this over man, just my honest opinion.

 

What is the point of going with a 383 with stock self ported heads and a cam while not spinning it past 6k rpm.. what's the reason for that?

What are you actually trying to accomplish?

Go with a budget 355 rebuild and slap an LE2 heads/cam setup on it and call it a day. Cheaper than a 383 and the car will be ***** out quick.

 

so nobody thinks that a cc306/cc305 and home ported heads on a 383 will run worth a damn. that sure does blow. well as far as the rpm goes i just dont want to spin another bearing, if i was to say spin it faster would it still be worthless due to not enough flow in the heads? and im not saying that heads could not be in the near future i just need to get it driveable for now and figured id try to get some more displacement while i was at it. maybe that was the wrong idea but im trying to make the most of it with my cam selection, i dont need a 450hp monster here, just would good power outta of what im going with. i know its not ideal but maybe someday with new heads itd run like everyone would think it should.

 

I spin my car to 6250 rpm on a regular basis. On a decent 355 rebuild you should be able to spin 6500 rpm without a hitch.

I still think a 355 w/ an LE2 setup is your best bet both for now and future-proofing.

A speed-inc 355 block is about $2700, LE2 setup is $1600, add another $1500 in there or so for supporting components.

 

i appreciate your ideas and help but unfortunately im not able to go this route due to most parts already in the shop. i just want like to know how each cam would make a difference on my apparent ****ty setup, if any difference at all. and not that itll run like crap on either one. thanks

 

Its not a bad idea I guess if you are looking to do it progressively, but from what I can tell when some do it this way, they never finish. Or, though it may be drivable after the 383 is done, you will be driving something that will probably be slower than it was before. Extra displacement is only good if you have the money to get the rest of the supporting parts to go with it. If not looking to make 450hp, then there is absolutely no reason to build a stroker. You can get 400 HP pretty easily with a budget 355. I understand that you would rather not spin it high, because apparently you have spun a bearing. However, once your engine is rebuilt, it should use a better quality bearing, and parts that are made for the higher rev's unlike the stock shortblock. Whether you know it or not, the 383 will take more money to build even the most basic of packages. Rather than do that, this is how something I would build would go for you.

Budget 355
Cast steel Scat crank 3.48"
Eagle or Scat I beams 6" length
Cheap forged/hypereutectic piston 4.03"
Quality Ring set matched to pistons
Clevite "H" bearings
ARP 2 bolt main studs

Additionally, the at least couple hundred dollars saved here will leave you some money to put in the heads. Sell your CC-305, and get the LE1 package, or something similar to that. Tell them what your goals are, how high you are willing to spin the engine and they will make you a cam that fits your needs. One that won't have to rev mega high, but still make much, much more power than a 383 with stock or self ported heads. On top of that, its probably not much more money than your 383 setup you are considering.

 

If going through with this, I would just run the 305 for now then. Start saving for a good porter to do your heads, whether it be a vendor from this board, or another vendor, or even someone local you will need your heads done up well to feed that stroker. Once the heads are done, get a cam to compliment the heads, and your setup.

 

It really depends upon your head flow, if you open the cross section up close to 1.90 (inches) and the valvejob and bowl are worked over really well (with bigger valves) then the cc306 of the two would be the one to go with .

I see you losing little lower end torque.

 

When I first built my engine, I had about the same goals as you do--good low end torque and not have to push it much past 6000 as it was mainly a street car. I did a 383 (M6), CC305 and mildly ported heads and was very happy with it. Very good on the street--great throttle response and low end. Sounded good also. I will be glad to send you the dyno sheets or any other info on that set up. Just e-mail me.

With that being said, I agree with the above posts in that there may be better options available. With the increased cubes of a stroker, you really need good heads--especially for mid and upper rpm range. I don't think anyone above meant that your set up would run crappy, just that it could be better.

Good luck on your project.

 

heres what i went with, so your telling me i may see a drop in power after this build? not what i want after a rebuild.

# New STD/STD Eagle Cast Steel Crankshaft (3.75" stroke)
# New 5140 Steel "SIR" Lightweight Connecting Rods
# KB hypereutectic pistons (-7cc flat top) & piston pins
# Premium plasma moly piston ring set
# Clevite 77 Rod and Main Bearing set
# Clevite 77 Cam bearings
# Melling std volume oil pump
# Arp 400CID main stud kit
# already have 1.6rr and EX612 springs along with hardened PR
# trying to decide between cc305/cc306
# going to port my own heads and open the cumbustion chambers a couple cc for compression issues
# 160 thermostat for detonation issues
# MadZ28 tune

 

well im kind of leaning towards keeping the cc305 due to the fact that i dont think my heads would flow enough to use the cc306 if i go with that 306 id lose the torque and not have the flow for the hp, kill me both ways.

 

The cc306 will make more power but since you don't want to spin it past 6K and you already have the cc305 then go ahead and use it. Geared and stalled correctly it will be quick down the 1/4 and alot of fun to drive with due to the high torque.