I just rebuilt mine and did numerous searches on it. Also checked with local machinists. I ended up going with the 383 below. I tell ya one thing. It cost a hell of a lot more than the 355.

 

One thing you'll want to keep in mind is that longer strokes and longer rods force the piston manufacturer to either put the rings close together (weak piston) or run the oil ring through the wrist pin hole (possible oil consumption).

I chose the 383 with 5.7" rods because it doesn't have this problem. A 396 with 6.0" rods does, though.

Mike

 

I believe that Turbo LT1 camaro has 760rwhp and can be seen on the LS1speed.com main page. Thats one hell of a burnout!


EDIT....here is the link to that video

http://www.ls1speed.com/movies/jim.wmv

 

engineermike-

so a 383 with 6.0" does not suffer as bad from this as does a 396 with 6.0"?

i ask this from your example; i am assuming that you chose it that was to exagerate the effect.

 

If you are planning on forced induction with a 383 you are better off getting 5.7" or 5.85" rod length.

 

Thanks for the suggestions

 

Thats for sure and make sure you gap your rings a lil wider if your spraying.

 

I could be wrong, but I think the 383/6.0" has the oil ring going through the wrist pin hole.

Mike

 

BullSh*t, it all depends one what you put in to get your price. My 355 is in the 7000.00 range after completion...Just depends on what you have done.

Q

 

I was going to build a 383 years ago, but ended up doing the 355.
The biggest issue with the 383 is clearancing the block and selecting the correct parts. One suggestion I have if building a 383 yourself is purchase a complete rotating assembly kit which is already balanced internally. I have an issue with my 355 not being perfectly balanced, it has a vibe in the 3500-4000 rpm range. Some parts fit into the block better than others, ie connecting rods. You would never know this unless you talk to engine builders who have built stroker engines.
As far as power with the 355, it has plenty. But it needs the supercharger. The 383 would be better if running N/A or with nitrous IMO. If your planning on using a turbo, a 355 would be plenty big enough.
Basically, increasing cubic inches will increase torque. How much torque do you need?

 

As far as cost is concerned, as others have stated, a 383 will have to have the block clearanced. I did this myself in a couple of hours. All you need is patience and an air grinder.

A 383 will also have to be balanced. Balancing a 355 is relatively easy and the local shops will to this for around $150. However, some 383 one-piece rear seal cranks have to have up to 5 slugs of heavy metal added (@$50 ea.) to balance internally. This is not the norm, but it can get expensive quick. In my personal experience, I had a cast Speed-o-motive crank that needed one slug and my Eagle 4340 crank didn't need any.

Not all stroker kits are like this, but with the Eagle 4340, 3.75 stroke one-piece rear seal crank, Eagle 5.7 H-beam rods, and SRP 31 cc dish pistons, the crank counterweights hit the piston skirts and pin bosses. I spent a significant amount of time grinding on the pistons to make them clear.

Frank at gofaststuff.com warned me about this problem ahead of time and he was right. Plus, his prices are great on Eagle parts.

Mike

 

Actually nowadays it's very easy to totally internally balance a 383 or a 396. I Just finished another one last night that went internal with an all steel Eagle kit that is a 396. The 383 does have more room for the pistons but the 396 piston can accomodate almost anything with a 5.85 rod.

 

Thanks