Thank you for having the ***** to express your opinion on the cam. Of course I dont want to hear it but I am no afraid to hear it. Why people just cant say whats on their mind rather than waste time with mind games is beyond me especially when they are asked for an opinion. All opinions are appreciated and respected.

Considering I have just discovered the problem not even two days ago, I dont think its fair to change out the cam at this time without trying some of the easier options first not to mention collect as much information as possible. I think anyone would agree with that statement.

If there is a way to coexist with this cam then that should be persued first. I equate the "change the camshaft" statement to undergoing heart surgery first before taking medication to attempt to fixing the issue. I have said before that the fast ramps on the cam seem like the root cause here. Geez.

Again I have a NIB full set of Comp 921 double coils that did not cost a dime just sitting here waiting to go on. If the beehives are not up to the challenge then the 921's should at the least work better at controlling the valves. Right now thats the plan.

If it does not improve after the easier adjustments first I will certainly look at another camshaft.

I just made a datamaster log and I can clearly see the flatening out of the RPM's at 6K on the RPM charts. Now I have a visual reference and gauge to determine if changes are helping or the problem is just staying the same. I can clearly hear the motor sound change to a more not normal sound at 6K RPM.

I just don't see that motor being able to breath with those headers either. I think you have a combination of a VERY aggressive cam and a motor that is being choked with sub-par headers.

*EDIT* What are you using for a y-pipe? Have a picture of it? I am very curious!

Might be the headers, if that is determined to be the case then LT's will be on the way.

The Y-pipe came with the RK sport headers. It is dual 2.5" pipes converging into a single 3" pipe. The headers are 1.75" primaries and 2.5" collectors so they are larger than most mids. The headers are near identical to Arizona Speed and Marine headers BTW.

No pic as of right now.

Is anyone aware of what parameters on the datamaster log would help to identify valve float?

Those headers sound sufficient. Didn't know they were that large.

Valve float is usually much easier to identify on the dyno. Do you have the dyno charts?

Still waiting for the tuner to email them to me, I am chomping at the bit to get them posted.

My chart looks near identical to this one (BLUE LINE) but mine drops at 6K::


Again this is NOT my chart but mine looks near identical to this guy who has the exact same problem.

Thats my chart and yes I am having the same problem.....

Well if your installed ht. is .030 then You should fix that. It will make a world of diff.

Is this one of brets cams? If so I think you should give him a call.......If nothiung else just for another opinion from someone who is experienced with this and beehives.

i have a weird feeling he is going to say to set them up within .01

In Datamaster does the airflow go haywire when the problem starts??? Pretty good indication of float.

Far as expressing my opinion I have and let's just say it is generally unwelcome, but mdacton is partially right though.
If .030 spring shimming fixes the float for now what do you think is going to happen once you have a few thousand miles on it and the springs begin to wear?

Yeah its bretts cam. Have no idea how to contact him since he has been banned.

But shimming .030 may fix the problem...but if it does then it should be fixed. Should not have problems down the road if everything is under control.

Dwayne express yourself.......don't worry what others say

Put a valve spring in a tester and then add a .030 shim.....you get alot more pressure.

so how much weaker will a set of valve springs get in a few thousand miles

so what your saying is that rather than fix the problem at hand he shoud swap everything out for a AI package right? or did you not get that far yet? every thread is the same bs with you

valve springs are a wear item, if marginal now how long would you expect them to last??? I think you may be right and that .030 may "solve" the current symptom but it will not eliminate the root cause and I feel the problem will resurface.

maybe, hard to say without knowing exactly what we are working with.....so thats why I say just get it from the horses mouth.

If the springs have been floating, chances are they are shot anyway.....But then again I have never really used beehives on my personnal stuff or anything I have worked on.

Lloyd said that springs would have to be replaced more often with this cam. I am fine with that. The one thing I have working to my advantage is I dont intend to rev above 6.3K RPM. Thats a big plus.

I dont mind swapping springs out every three years since this is not my daily driver. I am in favor of going overboard on the spring a bit even if it results in some parasitic power loss as long as it cures the float condition.