355 LE Dyno tune this Friday...Guess my numbers
03-29-2008, 01:52 AM
#35
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Houston(clear lake)
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03-29-2008, 08:16 AM
#36
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kantuckee Yo'
Posts: 4,405
UPDATE.
Spent 10 hours with Bluecat yesterday and I must preface by saying his attention to detail, knowledge on fuel injected GM motors and dedication and commitment to me to get the most power out of my motor was absolutely second to NONE.
By and large my motor was very sound and receptive to changes. It threw no major screwballs at Phil in the way that some LT1's do. He spent more time precisely dialing in the tune cell by cell and block by block as a result of the motor cooperating from square one. The one major point we had to address was knock retard which has been killing me on the mail order tune.
We spent 6 hours (with breaks) only working on NON-WOT road tuning. We learned right off the bat that my mail order tune was running way lean under these conditions according to the wide band O2 sensor that he installed. We then mad a several short non spirited drives while logging everything on his laptop using Data master. After each drive he would meticulously dissect the data logs and make changes again block by block. The motor is now easier to drive and has significantly less light throttle surging across the board than before. The only headache we ran into was trying to address the 1500 RPM light throttle surge using a closed loop tune. The motor wants more gas in this area but the PCM in closed loop wont cooperate with out affecting everything else. However we did cure it with an open loop tune which I can load up anytime if I feel the need. We both agree its the cam size causing this, however its just a minor nuisance and not really an issue.
Now for the fun stuff, so on to the WOT dyno tuning we go. Phil has a inertial Dynojet that he does his tuning on. We spent a couple of hours here and made around 8 pulls total. The baseline pull was very much in the ball park so again he just concentrated on precision tuning just like before.
All numbers SAE.
Baseline pull:
370 RWHP 350 RWTQ
Best pull:
374 RWHP 350 RWTQ
Best (cutout closed) pull:
365 RWHP 339 RWTQ
Best pull (CAI and elbow removed)
381 RWHP and 357 RWTQ
All this through the new Midwest 9" rear and RK sport Mid length headers BTW.
The thing we noticed on the charts is power and torque are great right up to 6000 RPM then it falls off like a rock. Shift point is 6200 RPM right now. Again it does not slightly roll off, it falls like **** out of a boot.
We think there may be some valve float due to the fast ramps on my LE 1.5 high lift camshaft or maybe the beehive valve springs are not quite getting the job done. I have a brand new set of COMP dually LS1 valve springs with titanium retainers sitting in the closet right now. I am not really interested in twisting the motor any higher, but if anything is to gain under the fall off then it would be worth researching.
During the drive home I did some hard launches to feel out the new tune. Before the tune, first gear was almost useless. Now after the tune first gear is totally useless since the PCM is not pulling timing due to false knock. I then did a nasty burnout to get the tires hot as to get a better feel to where I was. Dumped the clutch at 3K RPM and the tires hooked hard and I hit the 1st gear shift point so fast I wasn't ready for it. 2nd gear came up fast as well. 3rd and 4th gear power is brutal compared to my old motor. All this with ZERO knock retard.
There is absolutely NO doubt that my LT1 is many times more powerful on Phils tune than before. In conclusion, I wanted my new LT1 to rev to 6300 RPM or so to ensure great street manners, great reliability, decent mileage and deep 12 second ET's to boot. Clearly I think I am there.
UPDATE:
Here is my dyno sheets:
Spent 10 hours with Bluecat yesterday and I must preface by saying his attention to detail, knowledge on fuel injected GM motors and dedication and commitment to me to get the most power out of my motor was absolutely second to NONE.
By and large my motor was very sound and receptive to changes. It threw no major screwballs at Phil in the way that some LT1's do. He spent more time precisely dialing in the tune cell by cell and block by block as a result of the motor cooperating from square one. The one major point we had to address was knock retard which has been killing me on the mail order tune.
We spent 6 hours (with breaks) only working on NON-WOT road tuning. We learned right off the bat that my mail order tune was running way lean under these conditions according to the wide band O2 sensor that he installed. We then mad a several short non spirited drives while logging everything on his laptop using Data master. After each drive he would meticulously dissect the data logs and make changes again block by block. The motor is now easier to drive and has significantly less light throttle surging across the board than before. The only headache we ran into was trying to address the 1500 RPM light throttle surge using a closed loop tune. The motor wants more gas in this area but the PCM in closed loop wont cooperate with out affecting everything else. However we did cure it with an open loop tune which I can load up anytime if I feel the need. We both agree its the cam size causing this, however its just a minor nuisance and not really an issue.
Now for the fun stuff, so on to the WOT dyno tuning we go. Phil has a inertial Dynojet that he does his tuning on. We spent a couple of hours here and made around 8 pulls total. The baseline pull was very much in the ball park so again he just concentrated on precision tuning just like before.
All numbers SAE.
Baseline pull:
370 RWHP 350 RWTQ
Best pull:
374 RWHP 350 RWTQ
Best (cutout closed) pull:
365 RWHP 339 RWTQ
Best pull (CAI and elbow removed)
381 RWHP and 357 RWTQ
All this through the new Midwest 9" rear and RK sport Mid length headers BTW.
The thing we noticed on the charts is power and torque are great right up to 6000 RPM then it falls off like a rock. Shift point is 6200 RPM right now. Again it does not slightly roll off, it falls like **** out of a boot.
We think there may be some valve float due to the fast ramps on my LE 1.5 high lift camshaft or maybe the beehive valve springs are not quite getting the job done. I have a brand new set of COMP dually LS1 valve springs with titanium retainers sitting in the closet right now. I am not really interested in twisting the motor any higher, but if anything is to gain under the fall off then it would be worth researching.
During the drive home I did some hard launches to feel out the new tune. Before the tune, first gear was almost useless. Now after the tune first gear is totally useless since the PCM is not pulling timing due to false knock. I then did a nasty burnout to get the tires hot as to get a better feel to where I was. Dumped the clutch at 3K RPM and the tires hooked hard and I hit the 1st gear shift point so fast I wasn't ready for it. 2nd gear came up fast as well. 3rd and 4th gear power is brutal compared to my old motor. All this with ZERO knock retard.
There is absolutely NO doubt that my LT1 is many times more powerful on Phils tune than before. In conclusion, I wanted my new LT1 to rev to 6300 RPM or so to ensure great street manners, great reliability, decent mileage and deep 12 second ET's to boot. Clearly I think I am there.
UPDATE:
Here is my dyno sheets:
Last edited by wrd1972; 03-31-2008 at 06:35 PM.
03-29-2008, 08:41 AM
#37
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carol Stream, Il.
Posts: 3,557
Nice to to see your happy with the results. I would be too. Just remember that if the rpms are already falling off that badly now, it won't be long before the valve float gets worse. Ask me how I know. 
03-29-2008, 09:00 AM
#38
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 280
you should talk with James M. about his setup. It ran very good, into the 11's and even pulled at least one wheel can't remember if he got both with the 1.5HL cam.
But it sounds like you have a very well tuned car and has met the goals you set.
SO CONGRATS!!!
But it sounds like you have a very well tuned car and has met the goals you set.
SO CONGRATS!!!
03-29-2008, 09:09 AM
#40
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,525
03-29-2008, 09:19 AM
#41
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,444
DRs/Skinnies and a little suspension work you can get a full-weight car with a 275lbs driver into the 11s.
Should have numbers from the 355 setup soon.
Ask me how I know
(and for the record, both wheels are up LOL)
I wish I had a pic of of my 1.588 lauch, but this 1.603 looks about the same.
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-29-2008 at 09:22 AM.
03-29-2008, 09:32 AM
#42
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kantuckee Yo'
Posts: 4,405
My understanding from Lloyd, the LE1 HL and the LE1.5 cams are the near same with a slight twaek to LSA. James is getting his peak torque up around 6.3K RPM where I am falling at 6K RPM. Might be my headers or as I mentioned above some valve float..
03-29-2008, 09:39 AM
#43
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 280
Sorry guys I thought you both had the same cam.... oh well
and James man I knew you got at least 1 but couldn't remember if you got the other. but that is one of my favorite pics, along with Jerry at the burnout contest and the smoke was blowing backwards and up.
and James man I knew you got at least 1 but couldn't remember if you got the other. but that is one of my favorite pics, along with Jerry at the burnout contest and the smoke was blowing backwards and up.
03-29-2008, 11:56 AM
#45
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 3,245
I was only 1hp off. I'm supprised the torque is so low though.
And if you are getting valve float get that fixed, unless you want to destroy your new motor. I got valvefloat with that cam back when I was running it so I'm not supprised at all if you are getting some.
I'm supprised the torque is so low though.And if you are getting valve float get that fixed, unless you want to destroy your new motor. I got valvefloat with that cam back when I was running it so I'm not supprised at all if you are getting some.
