355 or 383?
I love my 355 and I built it on a budget. I used a stock crank, forged 6" I beams, and forged Mahle pistons. Spend your money on good heads and valvetrain. I have a decent set of heads, and my car runs pretty good. Hopefully mine will pick up some more when I get a dyno tune, as I am still running my cam only tune.
well the reason i wanted to boost the 355 is becuase i heard something about the stroke being longer so the boost wouldnt affect it as much than it would a 383 or something...im probably completely wrong, but most likely im going with the n/a 383....Im going to get that package from AI and then get a set of either L.E. heads or some AFR's depending on the budget, I heard LE heads can be even further ported than what they already are, so I beleive I have to look into that
the 355ci has the shorter stroke..
are you going to use the GM847 cam with a 383?
I love my 355 and I built it on a budget. I used a stock crank, forged 6" I beams, and forged Mahle pistons. Spend your money on good heads and valvetrain. I have a decent set of heads, and my car runs pretty good. Hopefully mine will pick up some more when I get a dyno tune, as I am still running my cam only tune.
Matt, what cam are you running and what kind of RPM does your set-up see? Still running the stock opti?
Edit, Not looking for specs on the cam, small, medium, or large will do. Mines a 222/226, small.
Last edited by Z-RATED94; Jul 30, 2007 at 12:06 PM.
I love my 355 and I built it on a budget. I used a stock crank, forged 6" I beams, and forged Mahle pistons. Spend your money on good heads and valvetrain. I have a decent set of heads, and my car runs pretty good. Hopefully mine will pick up some more when I get a dyno tune, as I am still running my cam only tune.
Do what you can afford, we build my cousins 94 trans am with stock 64k short block with gtp ported afr 215s, lt4intake, gtp cam, and flps. it dynoed at 433 at the wheels, and its got over 100k on it now, zero problems. If your motor is still running good, get a killer set of heads and intake, headers and such first, and wait untill you can afford to build your short block to maximize your head/intake combo. If we built him a 383 im sure it would have easily exceeded 500 N/a rwhp. Good matching parts is key, as seen with his rwhp with stock block, he had parts that worked well together. Imo i would do 383, bigger cubes never hurt, broader power band, and more power.
Do what you can afford, we build my cousins 94 trans am with stock 64k short block with gtp ported afr 215s, lt4intake, gtp cam, and flps. it dynoed at 433 at the wheels, and its got over 100k on it now, zero problems. If your motor is still running good, get a killer set of heads and intake, headers and such first, and wait untill you can afford to build your short block to maximize your head/intake combo. If we built him a 383 im sure it would have easily exceeded 500 N/a rwhp. Good matching parts is key, as seen with his rwhp with stock block, he had parts that worked well together. Imo i would do 383, bigger cubes never hurt, broader power band, and more power.
z-rated, you should really see whos on the other end of the computer before you throw out comments like that. My dad worked for gm high perf div from 1970, to 1975, and has built and logged over 350 high peformance engine builds, maybe you cant build a motor that made that type of horse power, but we did. My dad was running 10s in the 71, have the time slips to prove it
Not only that, the car was sold about 2 years ago, where the car the second owner, got 433hp at the wheels, my cousin got 421 at the wheels in 2000 when we finished the car.
the car was built with the following. 94 trans am 6 speed Black
Afr 215s gtp stage 3 ported and polished heads ferrara 2.08 valves
Lt4 intake,ported and polished to match, Asm 58mm tb
Vented opti upgrade
lt1 edit
Mezire ewp
FLP headers, with 3in y, no cats, borla adjustible catback, with cutout
30lb svos
96 ram air conversion
gtp custom biller roller to match heads cam/ belive it was around 600 lift ( cant remember built it in 2000)
mccloud dual disc clutch, gm 4.10s, kb dd sfc, global west uppers lowers, torque arm, phr, chrome zr1s with 335s on back
1le d/s, the car had everything
the car had many more mods then that. Not to mention it made 410 to the wheels with my cousin tuning it, and then 421 after it was pro tuned, and last owner made 433. The car has over 50k on the build, and the last owner said the only things he changed was the plugs and oil, the 10 bolt even held up we put 4.10s and a ta girdle in. I dont have the dyno graphs because it was my cousins car, it might have even been sold on this website years ago, my cousin sold it because he got an 03 gts finial edition viper. I have old pics i could take pictures of and post since i dont have a scanner.
Not only that, the car was sold about 2 years ago, where the car the second owner, got 433hp at the wheels, my cousin got 421 at the wheels in 2000 when we finished the car.
the car was built with the following. 94 trans am 6 speed Black
Afr 215s gtp stage 3 ported and polished heads ferrara 2.08 valves
Lt4 intake,ported and polished to match, Asm 58mm tb
Vented opti upgrade
lt1 edit
Mezire ewp
FLP headers, with 3in y, no cats, borla adjustible catback, with cutout
30lb svos
96 ram air conversion
gtp custom biller roller to match heads cam/ belive it was around 600 lift ( cant remember built it in 2000)
mccloud dual disc clutch, gm 4.10s, kb dd sfc, global west uppers lowers, torque arm, phr, chrome zr1s with 335s on back
1le d/s, the car had everything
the car had many more mods then that. Not to mention it made 410 to the wheels with my cousin tuning it, and then 421 after it was pro tuned, and last owner made 433. The car has over 50k on the build, and the last owner said the only things he changed was the plugs and oil, the 10 bolt even held up we put 4.10s and a ta girdle in. I dont have the dyno graphs because it was my cousins car, it might have even been sold on this website years ago, my cousin sold it because he got an 03 gts finial edition viper. I have old pics i could take pictures of and post since i dont have a scanner.
z-rated, you should really see whos on the other end of the computer before you throw out comments like that. My dad worked for gm high perf div from 1970, to 1975, and has built and logged over 350 high peformance engine builds, maybe you cant build a motor that made that type of horse power, but we did. My dad was running 10s in the 71, have the time slips to prove it
Not only that, the car was sold about 2 years ago, where the car the second owner, got 433hp at the wheels, my cousin got 421 at the wheels in 2000 when we finished the car.
the car was built with the following. 94 trans am 6 speed Black
Afr 215s gtp stage 3 ported and polished heads ferrara 2.08 valves
Lt4 intake,ported and polished to match, Asm 58mm tb
Vented opti upgrade
lt1 edit
Mezire ewp
FLP headers, with 3in y, no cats, borla adjustible catback, with cutout
30lb svos
96 ram air conversion
gtp custom biller roller to match heads cam/ belive it was around 600 lift ( cant remember built it in 2000)
mccloud dual disc clutch, gm 4.10s, kb dd sfc, global west uppers lowers, torque arm, phr, chrome zr1s with 335s on back
1le d/s, the car had everything
the car had many more mods then that. Not to mention it made 410 to the wheels with my cousin tuning it, and then 421 after it was pro tuned, and last owner made 433. The car has over 50k on the build, and the last owner said the only things he changed was the plugs and oil, the 10 bolt even held up we put 4.10s and a ta girdle in. I dont have the dyno graphs because it was my cousins car, it might have even been sold on this website years ago, my cousin sold it because he got an 03 gts finial edition viper. I have old pics i could take pictures of and post since i dont have a scanner.
Not only that, the car was sold about 2 years ago, where the car the second owner, got 433hp at the wheels, my cousin got 421 at the wheels in 2000 when we finished the car.
the car was built with the following. 94 trans am 6 speed Black
Afr 215s gtp stage 3 ported and polished heads ferrara 2.08 valves
Lt4 intake,ported and polished to match, Asm 58mm tb
Vented opti upgrade
lt1 edit
Mezire ewp
FLP headers, with 3in y, no cats, borla adjustible catback, with cutout
30lb svos
96 ram air conversion
gtp custom biller roller to match heads cam/ belive it was around 600 lift ( cant remember built it in 2000)
mccloud dual disc clutch, gm 4.10s, kb dd sfc, global west uppers lowers, torque arm, phr, chrome zr1s with 335s on back
1le d/s, the car had everything
the car had many more mods then that. Not to mention it made 410 to the wheels with my cousin tuning it, and then 421 after it was pro tuned, and last owner made 433. The car has over 50k on the build, and the last owner said the only things he changed was the plugs and oil, the 10 bolt even held up we put 4.10s and a ta girdle in. I dont have the dyno graphs because it was my cousins car, it might have even been sold on this website years ago, my cousin sold it because he got an 03 gts finial edition viper. I have old pics i could take pictures of and post since i dont have a scanner.
PS, no need posting graphs or pics, I wouldn't want to put you out.
Rick im just tryin to help you out, the power numbers are possible if you have a combo that works. Some people just know how to get the most out of a buildup.
My main point was, you could do your build in stages if theres nothing wrong with your short block to save money, And still have a fast street car in the meantime, while building your shoft block int he mean time. Short blocks never make the power anyway, its all in a good h/c/i package, of course with a short block you can raise/ lower your c.r for a turbo or all motor screamer, but rebuilding is normally just for reliabiltiy. What i mean by this is, if you built yourself an all forged, high compression 383, and threw the stock heads, and intake on, you would get smoked by a stock short block with good heads, cam, intake. put your money where the power is and you can save for your stroker package in the mean time if you cant afford to do it now
My main point was, you could do your build in stages if theres nothing wrong with your short block to save money, And still have a fast street car in the meantime, while building your shoft block int he mean time. Short blocks never make the power anyway, its all in a good h/c/i package, of course with a short block you can raise/ lower your c.r for a turbo or all motor screamer, but rebuilding is normally just for reliabiltiy. What i mean by this is, if you built yourself an all forged, high compression 383, and threw the stock heads, and intake on, you would get smoked by a stock short block with good heads, cam, intake. put your money where the power is and you can save for your stroker package in the mean time if you cant afford to do it now
yes, the gm847 would be used for the 383, inless theres something else thats a bit more radical...i wanted to do a 396, but i dont have the budget for it...im barely going to be able to pull off the 383....a 355 would be more in my budget, but the car has a lot of miles so its mostly to just refreshen it and give it new life at the same time...

no one has yet to comment on the advanced induction package i brought up...

my goal for the car is to have about 450-500RWHP...i could alwasy spray later on had i chose to get more power hungry...but being a 20 year old in NYC, im sure a car like that woul dbe more than enough to take out a lot of stuff out there

(Stupid personal goal is to be a Ferrari, dont really care which one....I know I know its dumb, just something I want to be able to say)

I wasnt aware that the 355 had a shorter stroke than the 383, i thought it was the other way around? can someone break it down for me...

EDIT: motor is almost ready to come off the car from the bottom, question i have is, on the strut up top, are the OEM bolts a bolt style like 15,13 and what not, or is it the star style....on one side i had the bolts, and the opther side i have the stars...just thought is was weird seeing that....
to tfalconier, id rather build the monster from the beginning, as the car isnt ready for the road at this time, i just started taking it apart and im trying to gather as much knowledge and pointers as possible, here by me its almost all civics and such, so i cant really go for help without someone making a stupid comment and me going off on how they cant make any power unnless they are boosted and such...
i want to drop the car in one shot and just have it run without a problem
i want to drop the car in one shot and just have it run without a problem
im about 40 mins from nyc if you need a good builder. Then go for an all forged, 11.1 383, with 215 afrs, edelbrock lt4 intake, both heavily ported, a good set of headers like hookers or pacesetters, a good matching cam, and you should easily have 450rwhp with room to grow
One big piece of advice I'll give you is to not get too hung up on dyno numbers...I'm not sure what your goals are for the car, strip, street/strip, auto cross, pro touring style, cruiser? I'd find someone with a proven combination with track times, etc. I can't tell you how many times I've blown the doors off cars with big hp dyno sheets...
The 383 is a great choice and is not that much more $$$ than a 355 if built right. You absolutely don't need a .600" lift cam with big duration to go fast...and remember that the motor is only a part of the car's build. All the hp #s don't mean a thing if you cant use it. Once you decide on the motor you have to start from the back of the car and move forward with the rear end, suspension, transmission, etc...Those who go fast here know that the key is the entire combo has to be right...
A great way to go is the 383 with stock properly ported big valve (2.00/1.56) heads and a matched cam, 11ish:1 compression...I favor the smaller cams with bigger lift and my results speak for themselves with a 3650lb race weight n/a on pump gas...I've heard good stuff about Ai packages, too...If you pay attention to detail you'll have a great set up...
--Alan
The 383 is a great choice and is not that much more $$$ than a 355 if built right. You absolutely don't need a .600" lift cam with big duration to go fast...and remember that the motor is only a part of the car's build. All the hp #s don't mean a thing if you cant use it. Once you decide on the motor you have to start from the back of the car and move forward with the rear end, suspension, transmission, etc...Those who go fast here know that the key is the entire combo has to be right...
A great way to go is the 383 with stock properly ported big valve (2.00/1.56) heads and a matched cam, 11ish:1 compression...I favor the smaller cams with bigger lift and my results speak for themselves with a 3650lb race weight n/a on pump gas...I've heard good stuff about Ai packages, too...If you pay attention to detail you'll have a great set up...
--Alan
I hate to say it but if your building on a budget there is no way you will ever see 450-500rwhp. I am guessing I am at about 370-390rwhp but like the previous poster said, what are the goals. You said beat a ferrari... in the 1/4 mile? On a road coarse? In a car show? Gotta be more specific because each goal implies money spent elsewhere. If you do it yourself and have never done it before you will run into problems and it will not run perfect (best rwhp/track times) the first run around. You will be fixing problems for a while, tracking down bugs, etc.
Just a little experience for ya, I have been getting mine fine tuned for almost 8 months now and will be dynoing in the next few weeks. I will post my dyno and new track times with slicks soon as I get them
Just a little experience for ya, I have been getting mine fine tuned for almost 8 months now and will be dynoing in the next few weeks. I will post my dyno and new track times with slicks soon as I get them


