Camarocracy

Let's say that I wanted to rebuild my motor for boost. What did you guys pay to have your motor rebuilt at the stock 350ci, 355ci and a 383 stroker?

And do you still have the stock rear end and transmission?

joe-96z1le

The numbers on this will be all over the place. Depends on the quality of parts you want to use and whether or not you'll be doing the labor or you'll be paying someone to do it. And some of that cost will depend on how much boost you'll want to run. What I would consider a good, balanced rotating assembly (Lunati, Callies, Diamond pistons) is costing at least $3k. Head work $2k+. A decent s/c kit alone is about $4k. And the supportting mods can add up pretty quick. I have a Strange unit so add about $2400 for that. Clutch, another $500+. Driveshaft $300. The T56 should hold up to 600HP+. And don't forget the dyno tuning.

But, if your going to replace the rotating assembly, a 383 is the way to go. Get the extra CI since your replacing the crank anyway. If you know the boost and HP you want contact someone like VRE and get a complete shortblock price.

reamo04

talked to my local machine shop, the only price difference for machining is
$45 for clearancing the block
$25 for clearancing the rods

so, another $70 for a 383 over a 355, assuming all your parts cost the same

seawolf06

If you're going to be building for boost, then you're going to need all new middle to top of the line rotating assembly, so the price difference isn't going to be that great from 355-383. Most people stay with the stock crank, which is why a 355 is cheaper for other people.

joe-96z1le

Oh yea. Tack on another $1k for supporting fuel system mods.

DarthIROC

If your doing a rebuild, your probbaly going to be at 355 even if you dont stroke. Its always a good idea to take it to .030 over just so your working with new metal as oppossed to just a bore hone.

turnin20s

Not to jack the thread, but I'm doing a 355 with a stock crank and rods but with new pistons what will the stock pieces hold up to? I'm planning on some ARP rod bolts and main studs for some more insurance.

Critter

355 is the best bet... most of the time the 355 comes out being a better lt1 that 383 lt1's i have read about on the forums.

96capricemgr

Probably has more to do with too many people thinking cubes are power and neglecting the topend.

If you need to buy a crank I would do a stroker, if you are OK with reusing the crank then a 355 can make good power.
The stock pistons are pretty heavy yet the whole stock rotating assembly is fairly reliable. Many aftermarket pistons are lighter even forged which only serves to reduce load on the rods and crank effectively making them safe at higher speeds yet.

Comes down to budget and goals.

Far as the transmission, if you have the 4L60E it gets a bad rap but that is because of bad builders, there are a number of shops out there that can build them very well just there are even more than can't.

The 7.5" axle is weak but it usually takes either dragstrip launches on sticky tires or wheelhop to break it. An automatic tranny does not shock it as hard as a manual so they can last behind an auto at least to a point.

DarthIROC

I dont really agree with that, i think why you notice more problems with 383s is the fact that there are more hardcore builds with 383s than 355s. Most of the time a 355 is a near stock rebuild. And of course with a more radical set-up comes more bugs.

Stroking a motor has its issues but they are minimal to be honest. Going to a longer rod with the longer stroke helps some. IMO theres no real reason not to take the extra 30 ci

Critter

like you said it has a lot to do with neglecting the heads!