Just thought I'd let everyone know-

353ci LT1 w/ stock heads
Hooker shorties/Factory I-pipe/Flowmaster
CC306/Crane 1.6rrs/Comp "R"s/986 springs
52mmTB/LPE CAI/24lb SVOs/Walbro 307


This was achieved with a conservative tune for summer(100+*) and pump gas/
Let off at 5600rpm because motor was new, HP was still climbing though.
The guy who dyno tuned it said it probably had another 20hp in it with a more aggressive tune.

Once winter comes around, I'm looking for 400rwhp@ 6000+rpm with unported heads. Hooker LTs, true duals, Electric WP, and a race program should get me there.
I believe I have alot to gain still in the exhaust.

Marcin's not the only one making good hp with a 306 and stock heads!

 

Got a graph?

 

Actually I do, I don't know how to post it though, needs the Dynojet.com viewer.

 

now i am impressed at 5600 rpms but have some questions.

Care to post a graph?

You rebuilt the bottom and didn't even touch the heads? No milling or anything?

Lightweight internals?

STD or SAE-J?

 

What kind of numbers were you making with the blower? I bet you could see 400+ hp with a better exhaust and tune.

You have a better tune already dont you, i thought you were getting lots of KR before?


I have decided to go with the SLP Clutch. Have you heard anything about autozones carrying the LT4 pressure plate and stock LT1 clutch Disk? I did a search on here and read that Autozones carry it and its only like $200. Im gunna stop by one and find out tomorrow.

You up for helping me with a header install. I drive to Phoenix and bring the beer.

 

who did your tunnuing, how much did it cost. Can you gives us a bit more details and post a graph. I have a true duals, hooker LT's and stage II hame ported heads, but I don't think my car would pull 360 rwhp. My motor has just 42k miles.


Paul

 

You can email me the dynojet file and I might be able to post it for you.
BTW, what were your numbers before this?

 

Those dyno runs were with some KR, dyno tuner couldn't figure it out and finally gave the car back to me, got a MadZ28 mailorder tune and the KR is gone, it's gotta be making more now.


Actually Madwolf, you saw the tune it made that power with, they told me it was conservative, what did you think? They were fighting the false KR and kept pullin timing.

I've got like 10 dyno runs saved, I need to find that one and I'll email to you Madwolf.

I forgot to mention the valves are stock LT4 sizes, 1.98/1.55. I don't really think they make a difference on unported heads.

The car used to make 340rwhp with the stock motor(75k), Powerdyne 4.5 psi, Hooker shorties, cutout, and thats it.

 

Jared, I wouldn't go with a stock clutch disk.


Internals are all stock except for bearings, rod bolts and SRP replacement pistons. The heads were not milled, I am using the Hi-Perf Fel Pro head gaskets that are like .39 thick, the stock head gaskets are thicker.

 

Yes, the tune had quite a bit of timing pulled. Even compared to stock. So are you saying the KR is completely gone now, even at WOT?

PS. You need some LTs.

 

"The car used to make 340rwhp with the stock motor(75k), Powerdyne 4.5 psi, Hooker shorties, cutout, and thats it."

That was on strong LT1 before the cam

 

Powerdyne 4.5 PSI = Supercharger.

 

Ok, so you have a valve job, that could be what, 10-15 cfm? anybody? Might be more significant that you think.

Well built slightly lighter bottom end could free up some more ponies too.

Lighter valves will also keep the valve float down which is what kills many grinds at 6k+

Stock compression?

STD or SAE hp?

I'm not hating because like you said they are unported heads. But those lil things can make a difference. If your making that at 5600, you should definitly be pulling a lot more by your peak at 6200 or so. Why did you go to the dyno if you wheren't willing to spin it up? Just to use a wideband?

Whats your torque numbers like?

And how on earth do you plan on picking up another 50 ponies on this thing?

-brent

 

Im not sure what i should get, the car is just going have bolt ons, I figured the heavier pressure plate was all i really needed. From what i understand, this would be the same clutch setup as anLT4 car. You dont think thats enough?


What clutch and pressure plate are you running?

 

It gets 2-3* when I start it up, even at idle. Once it gets to operating temperature, it all goes away, all of it, even at WOT. I've had my head out the window listening for knock(just in case) and there is none.

I have no idea.

RAM Powergrip, no one seems to like this clutch, I have close to 5k on it and it grips like ****. The rear end even wiggles a little when I shift into 4th at WOT.