I'm trying to figure out what in the hell size I'm supposed to be getting for my 95 Z28. 3/4" or 1"?


Also I was going to get the Stage 8 Grade 8 header bolts... Anyone recommend otherwise?

What gaskets do you recommend?




Thanks

 

I just finished my RK sport header install.
Get the stainless ARP 1" HEX header bolts:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

MOST IMPORTANT:
Dont get the 12 points ore you will be hurting, the hex allows you to use an open end wrench.

 

Thanks! That's good info.


Happen to know which one of those part numbers were the ones you got?

 

These right here:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp
400-1109

Plus having the 1" bolts let you torque them down harder without stripping threads.
Good luck on the install.

 

Thanks. What type of gaskets did you use? I'm looking at the Percys Seal-4-Good gaskets. Not sure if I'm supposed to be using round or square.

One more question... The loose primary tube, can that be welded up before install or is it supposed to be left loose for some reason during the process? I'm going to be taking it over to my mechanic friend's house and he'll be helping me out... Since he's got all kinds of tools.

I'm not sure if he's got a welder though.

 

Everyone raves on the fel-pro 1406, thats what I used. They are ony $16.00 bucks or so.

I tried to install the driver header with the primary attached and I could not get it in. I didnt try long and hard because I would hate to get it in and never be able to get it back out.
I used Copper RTV and sealed that primary up good and dont have any leaks.

If you have a problem (which I bet you will) with the steering shaft hitting the #1 primary, see this post:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=409961

You will probobly have to grind some of the passenger side k-member to prevent the collector flange from bangin on it. You will see what I mean.

I also had to heat the large portion of the y-pipe and bend it up a tad and cut an inch of length off to make it all fit right.

Make sure the bolts dont bind in the bolt holes when putting the headers on, if you have to longate the holes or you will have a very bad time running the bolts in.

You will also see what a PITA it is do deal with the dipstick tube. I cut the mounting bracket off the tube at the tack welds and JB welded the three tiny holes. I the rigged up a mounting bracket to hold the tube in place. This is the only way you can install the tube after the header is completely installed.
Not doing all this makes the header very hard to install especially by yourself.

After all this and nearly 24 hours of install the headers look good and dont hit anything. Make sure you go OVC plug wires too.

 

Good Lord. Geez, that sounds even worse than the nightmare I had known it was going to be.

I just bought new plug wires a couple weeks ago too (wasn't planning on doing headers anytime soon). Will they work anyway in a pinch? I'd hate to have to buy another set of wires. I was thinking of getting 8" slip on heat shields.

So the primary is sealed with RTV? Wow, I thought it was supposed to be welded. As you can tell I haven't researched this much.

 

Yes they were a nightmare in many ways but not impossible.
Dont weld cause you will be screwed if you go to remove it.
If the RTV fails there are other options like that hard exhaust putty stuff. I actually

The RK's fitment leaves a lot to be desired in many ways, however if you address these issues wisely it will work out in the end. I enjoyed the whole thing but it was very challenging and took a long time.

I could have spent another $300 for the Arizona speed and marine which are supposed to fit better out of the box but I enjoy solving sticky problems, and saving money for roller rockers.

If you need any advice on installing your headers PM me.

 

square

 

Ahhh, thanks.
Thanks again bro.

 

I went with Breslin bolts... but yes, whatever brand bolt you get I'd go with 1"

 

I thought about the Breslins but access to the set screws will be challenging. I think the price turned me off. I plan on checking all the bolts in the spring to ensure they have not backed off. I have read many times over that after checking the once they will go the distance.
I do like the Breslin better than the stage 8's, the stage 8's look lika a major PITA to install.

The other really wonderful thing about the ARP's is the 5/16" hex heads, this allows for lots of room for the socket.

Also when your doing the RK sport header install, you will need to grind off some of the diameter on the 2nd bolt from the rear on the passenger side cause its directly next to the tube, maybe about .030 or so. You will see what I mean cause it wont go in any other way.

One more tip for the header install. It is impossible to get a tool on the driver side collector nut that attaches to the welded in bolt. If you grind a tool access hole in the k-member this will allow you to get an extension with your socket up in there. There is no other way to tighten this nut unless you are a magician.

 

Where do you fly out of? I live about 15 miles ESE from March ARB (163rd)

 

I used Mr. Gasket gaskets from autozone. I have had no problems with them. I also used the bolts that came with my pacesetter longtubes

Rob

 

To be honest, the AS&M's are probably not worth the extra $300. Everyone in this thread has described every detail I had to do while installing my AS&M's. They were a huge pain to install but they are pretty when they're done. For the money, I was unhappy with the fitment. I later helped install some MAC's and they were so much easier to install.