I am running real close to 11.1:1 with my current setup and my heads are still stock other than springs. You should be above 11.1:1 with your setup no problem. I am figuring your heads will need to be cut some to compensate for any kind of warpage over the years. My block was cut .008 as well as my heads. I will be more close to 12.1:1 after my head work this winter and my new nitrous cam LE is setting up for me. I should be putting down around 450 N/A and 600 - 700 with spray.

 

i dont wanna pull the block out , just shave the heads .010 and hope to have a static CR of 11 to 12:1 with a 100 shot and MSD box with window switch and timing retard, im really hoping it run well

 

That is a pretty big f*ckin cam for a stock CI block! I can't recall if you said what port work you were doing, but thats going to need le3/4 or an AI 200CC + at the min to make the most usable power.

 

It seems as if your just slapping a combo together without knowing the information that's needed prior to putting it together to ensure it all works together. Maybee it will maybee it won't. That's what I kinda did 5 yrs ago and it got me a DCR of around 8.3 and I kinda wish I would have done my research and got it around 9.0 to 9.2.

Ok I'll try and help you out here but what I'll need to know is the Advertised duration of the cam Intake and Exhaust, the lobe seperation(112), the intake lobe centerline(should be 108 but please confirm), and the Advertised Intake Closing angle.

I will put this into my handy dandy DCR calculator and based upon the information given I'll give you a range of DCR's you will have based upon the span of possible CC volume size. Milling the head .010 is going to change it a good bit. It would be nice if your porter can give you an exact CC volume that your heads will come out to with the information you give.

Also the number I'll have to swag is the deck height of the block. I will input that you are going with a .039" head gasket which is stock. An exact number for the CC of the heads and the deck height of the block would be just dandy. That is the distance btw the top of the piston at TDC and the top of the surface of the block. Most folks get the block zero decked but we will have to have a number here since you are not going that route.

 

That cam is a way to big. You should have a serious bottom end for a cam that size. Look into a LE 230/234 .592/.592 111 LSA and you will get much better results. I just talked to Lloyd about this Sat.

 

you do realize the cam u just recomended is a higher lift than what i want and is only a few degrees less than what i will be running,

yes the head will be ported and polished to the hilt by a very experienced porter and engine builder that IS NOT A SITE VENDOR HERE,

 

and if i choose to change the bottom end it will be a callies dragon slayer crank, some high end forged rods and forged + coated pistons , i wanted opinions form people that are actually running a cammed lt1 ,

so yes i will be running a 200cc intake runner head that is fully worked over:P

 

Go with the dragon slayer, forged h beams and pistons and just build an all out bad *** motor!

My opinion.

 

thats what i was thinking about finding another block and build it sick forged every thing,

i was reading a superchevy mag a while back and re read an shoot out between the DZ302 ,327 and 1970 and 71 LT1 and they ran them with steel fuelie heads stock period corect intakes and a 750 holley and with cam with lift almost exactly the same as what we have stock and they were pulling 350 to 375 HP out of them and we cant even get that much with a stock cam with our alum heads and fuel injection and other very good stuff from the factory in stock form but these motors can , WTF is with that.

we are doing somthing wrong we should have a big advantage over these all steel motors with carbs

does anyone have any vids of there cammed LT1's idleing and runnin

 

FWIW, IMO, 90% of people OVERBUILD their motor. you would be fine with stock crank, eagle i-beams, and some pistons of choice.
theres no need in your application for much more. A callies crank for your application would be overkill.

 

The cam I recommended is more for your setup and will work with a stock bottom end better than your high duration cam. I tried keeping it close to what you want but something a bit more milder. And is that lift with 1.5 RR or 1.6 RR cause 1.6 RR will go up about .035. The cam's lift I recommended is with 1.6 RR. The cam in my sig is actually .530/.533 with 1.6 RR it comes out to the numbers below. Call LE and he will set you up with a cam for your specific application.

 

that lift spec on the cam i desided on is .590 lift with 1.6rr's


i also thought about getting another block and build it like this for a 300 shot or boost

so if i build an all out ***** to the wall motor for the Z this is what it will be a 383 or 396 stroker
cryo treated block,
callies race master crank stroker crank knifed edged + balanced
oliver rods or crower or carillo "i probably spelled that wrong" lol
splayed and cryo treated main bearing caps
fill the block up to the freeze plugs with block filler
custom grind cam
MAHLE forged and ceramic coated piston crown with coated skirts
fully balanced rotating assembly
some 215cc P&P heads
1.6:1 RR with stud girdle
hardened tapered push rods
windage tray

i wanna see how this one does if i dont like it back to the drawing board lol so to speak

 

i also would rather be over kill with my motor than be running the crap out of it one day and it come apart

 

I'm sure those HP#'s are at the engine, which, yes you can easily get out of a FULL bolt-on LT1 as that would be about 300-325 rwhp through an M6. I made that with my 170k mile bolt-on LT1 with 1.7RR on the stock cam, tune, Hooker LT's, and maxing out my injectors 100% around 5000-5200 RPM (on E85).

Just search youtube or streetfire.net

 

ttt