Cam Swap is complete. I went from going from almost 90miles from Full to the F mark on the gauge... to about 60. I know some of it is because I played around a lot so far, but... I'm wondering. How much vacume should I be pulling at idle? (Looking for leaks)

I've got headers, catback, CAI and with this cam, 1.6rr and PCMforless program, my city milage has been untouched if not slightly increased, but my hwy milage around 65mph has gone straight down the trash. It's probably, at BEST as good as my city milage. That stinks. I'm looking for problems, and also, those out there, how did you do with differences in milage and power and vacume, and also, perhaps a different programmer? I need to talk to the guys over there at PCMforless, because I wanted EGR, CAGS, AIR all left in, and I know the EGR and CAGS are gone now...

 

Anyone know how much vacume I should see? I'm running between 14-15in of mercury and I see stock lt1's upwards of 19-20. Anyone?

 

EGR function can't really be programmed out. They can only set the code not to show up. Why do you think it's been programmed out? my egr is blocked off and it still doesn't set the code. If you just blocked off the hose but left the valve on it won't set a code anyhow.

Why on earth would you want CAGS?

Sounds like you should record some highway data if you have the capability and see if it's running on the rich side. A cam doesn't have to kill your gas milage, but there isn't any reason for it to help it. I think you need to run some full tanks through making sure you only drive the same as your old style before you can pass judgement on your mpg, 'playing' lead foot can really kill a tank and skew the MPG down a couple of pts.

 

Hi, how do you like the cam? Do you have any dyno numbers or et's with it yet? I'm just curious to see what kind of numbers other people are getting with this cam. Thanks a bunch.

 

Well, no you cant get EGR fully out, but it isnt throwing the code. And do I want cags? Well, not anymore, but that's not the issue. I need to run a logger on the thing and get the info, that is the next plan. For grins though, she is tuned better then stock when in lead foot mode... Power increase over stock so far has not been that impressive. a 218/224 112 I'm guessing would make more N/A power... But, on the overall, aside from gas milage (which is why this is so confusing) The car has no losses or downsides that I have yet to notice. She takes a beating to no end, and the Cmotorsports springs and the Comp Cams R lifters have let me rev the **** out of it without issue. The car makes power all the way till 6500rpm, and shows no desire to stop, so a full dyno is soon approaching to determine the power band.

On a side note, I sent a nice email to comp cams thanking them for their amazing product, and asking them for some advice on the situation. For the HP it gained, the cam alone isnt worth the time and effort. But it's a power adder cam, and that means I have more mods to do

 

not sure what vacuum your supossed to see, but I can check mine, and maybe it will help you. I have the 224/236 on 114 and my gas mileage doesn't really seem to be affected, I am surely using a tad bit more gas, but overall its not real noticable and I'm running on stock tuning. Are you having any other problems? I notice you said you weren't very impressed with its performance, but you should be seeing a prety big difference. Isn't the cc305 220/230 114 Many people seem to feel a huge difference with this cam, so something doesn't sound right

 

Hmmmm, thats exactly what i have waiting to be installed.

If it pulls to 6500 then there must be a nice increase over stock from 5500-6500

Don't tell me that, i didn't put mine in yet! Your sig doesn't say what other mods you have? -EDIT* I'm a dumbass, it's in your first post*

How long did it take you? Since it was obviously your first cam swap that will be better indicator for me to plan off of then someone who's done multiple cams. When are you getting this dyno done? I always like to compare dyno graphs of mildly modded cars and anticipate my gains based on them instead of going by manufacurers numbers or dipping into the mod fund for another dyno pull.

 

is this an NA cam? Lift?

 

Well, it is a blower cam, and when I talked to Cmotorsports about it, they gave me a bit of insight into why a similar cam set for N/A would do better.

For 1.5rr the cam: 218/230 .495/.510

I have the 1.6rr, so those numbers are slightly different.

There is a power increase, but for all the effort I spent on it, I'd say it wasnt worth the time and effort. Yes, the powerband does go along from 5500+ and it has plenty of top end. Yesterday I ran a 93 Tsi FWD Talon with a big16g and supporting mods @12psi and though from a 40mph roll, I didnt put much on him till 4th gear, but when I got into 4th I just started to walk away. Impressive.

How long did it take me?

Honestly, it wasnt bad at all. Total of about 25-30 hours. The valve springs I honestly think take the most time of all, just because they're such a pain, but it's not HARD work. Just time consuming. The plan I was given by an lt1 mechanic local to me:

Day 1: Take off the intake manifold, Water pump, opti, valve covers, alternator, lifters, pushrods, rockers.
Day 2: Remove the cam, install the new one. Put in the new lifters and get the hub back on. If you feel good, start on the springs.
day 3: finish Springs, then reinstall opti, water pump, intake manifold. Let the RTV set.
day 4: reinstall valve covers, alternator, belt etc. Start. Look for problems. Change oil.

When I add a power adder, then it'll be worth it.

 

I'm sure you'll see some improvement, although I don't see any exhaust done to your car, this will really hinder your performance, cams need to breath out. But once you get those items it will really fly! Far as time to install, I'd say probably two days if you work all day and three if you take your time. Personally I wouldn't worry so much about time, but more if its done right. The springs are the hardest part(time consuming) I personally would leave the intake on until your ready to remove and install the cam, this way you stand a less chance of dust,dirt and whatever else making its way into the area. I did it this way, with a tarp and newspaper over the area, and crap still blew inside that caused extra work to clean. Make sure your balancer is at TDC before pulling it. I pulled the hub with ballancer attached, this way there is no mistakes where it goes back on, otherwise mark its position on the hub. when you pull off the distributor make sure you know where the dowl pin goes in the back of it. When removing the timing cover don't tear the bottom of the oil pan gasket, mine was superstuck, I gently ran my finger between it and gasket and slowly worked it loose, without any rips. make sure also to install the waterpump seal in the timing cover after the cover is on, otherwise it will surely leak. Also know the valve will fall in the cylinders unless thy're at TDC or held up with air. THese are the most problems you'll run into, just wanted to prepare you so you don't mess it up since these are common ones. If you've got any questions don't hesitate to ask

 

With that 114 lsa my guess would be that 15-16" of vacuum is about right.

A 114 ls cam is actually a better candidate for a car with a more restrictive exhaust system. I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't see a really noticable difference n/a but hey, this is for a blower engine. Should be ideal when you get everything together.

-Mindgame

 

Actually I do have headers and a catback, i just didn't list them since that track time was before them. Thanks for the tips though.