Have a question about 1LE LCA'S. Are they better then stock? Would they be a good upgrade to my car. I am just learning about the suspension on our cars and everyone always talks about 1LE stuff when I don't know what it is. Thanks.

 

I'd just go aftermarket.

Mine look the same, but apear to be a different bushing, asuming stiffer one.

 

1LE was a factory option designed to give autocrossers a better handling suspension. It included stiffer springs, shocks, bushings, swaybars, and an aluminum driveshaft.

Aftermarket vendors(BMR, Spohn, etc) make far better suspension/chassis parts for less money.

 

The autocross guys like the 1LE LCAs because they can twist which allows the rear axle to move more freely than it can with aftermarket LCAs which are made with stiffer tubing and bushings and allow suspension "bind" unless they use rod ends instead of bushings.
As far as I know 1LE LCAs are the same as standard F body LCAs but the bushings are different but I'm not sure.
My first suspension upgrade would be a stiffer front swaybar.

 

So are all f-body LCAs the same? Whether or not it's a v6, v8, 1LE, WS6, SS? The only difference is the bushings, and thats only 1LE cars. That's what I'm gathering.

 

Me too. I have another question you guys. I am getting in some 3.73's and in about a year I will be around 300-350 rwhp on nitto dr's. What should I do to siffen up my rear end if anything.

 

Go with some BMR boxed SFCs and some BMR tubular/boxed poly/poly LCAs. A BMR adg. torque arm and panhard rod would be good also. This should get your power to the ground.

 

But wont it just bust my rear end up?

 

The 10 bolt rear is very weak no matter what you do. You could always put a T/A girdle on. But to hook up you'll need these suspension pieces. I guess if you didn't do any suspension with that kinna hp and DRs you would have plenty of slip and you wouldn't have to worry about it. But if you'r gonna get alot of track time in, I would suggest a 12 bolt rear so you wouldn't have to worry about anything.

 

Well I do plan on putting in shocks and springs, torque arm, sway bars, and pan hard rod. But I just want to keep the 10 bolt strong. I think I am going to put a girdle on it. I just plan on stopping there on mods with this car. Be able to run in the 12's and keep the car streetable.

EDIT:Until I get another car as a daily driver.

 

Boxed LCAs are overkill IMO. Tubular LCAs are plenty stiff and lighter. If you want to stiffen up the rear, LCAs, panhard rod and a torque arm will help. They won't shorten the life of the rear end because they won't increase traction, they will just make the rear more stable (less fishtailing). What will "Bust your rear end up" is more grip and more power stressing the gears.

 

Yea it's hard to have one of these cars as a daily driver and a racer all in one. Things break all the time, and you never know when something might happen. A daily driver beater car is most deff. needed when modifying or racing our cars.

 

Yea I plan on having this as my daily driver for a year or two. While modding it. Then getting a truck or something on a lease. Maybe a brand new civic si....No never, I would like to at least run into the 14's if I got a car, j/k. I was thinking maybe a brand new altima or something. A guy in here has one and it runs good times. It could be my import killer car . Thanks for everyones imput you guys have really helped me set up my plans for this car.

 

While BMR does make some very good stuff, I like the Competition Engineering Subframe Connectors. They are bolt-in versus weld-in, and I trink they as much cleaner looking.

 

Bolt in is not as good as weld in. Over time, the bolt holes will not handle stress like a good weld can. Plus the stress is more equally applied with the welds vs. bolts. Probably not a big difference, but I'm a big fan of doing things once.