Just wondering... but when the car is fully heated up what's your oil pressure at?

 

It was me and I couldn't remember if it was you or mindgame, so my apologizes

 

A little clarification here...The German-made 0w30 Castrol Syntec is more of a true "40w" oil...Don't let its rating fool you guys...

And FYI, the GCS 0w30 is a LOT thicker than any M1 5-30 or 10w30 (same with Royal Purple). They all thin out to more of a "20w" rather quickly...

Again, do a search on the username Patman like Injuneer suggested as he is the residential oil guru who has tested many oils with the GCS 0w30 yielding the best results in his old LT1 Formula...The M1 0-40 & 5w40 are also good proven oils that work well in hard-driven daily-driver LT1's (just like the GCS). And this is not word of mouth, but rather comes from actual real life data that was tested over long internals in our cars (they showed the lowest wear metal #'s on hard driven high-mileaged LT1's hands down)...The best oil site out there also backs these claims up: www.bobistheoilguy.com

I run the GCS in both my LT1 & LS1 BTW and couldn't be happier with the results over everything else I've used in the past...

Mike

 

Injuneer and 2000LS1Z28 are giving you very good info most of the others are just illustrating how LITTLE they know about oil. Check the bobistheoilguy link above for all your oil questions, asking them here will result in a LOT of BAD info. Everyone here ants track times or dyno numbers to define parts performance but then ignores actual testing of oil, check the Used OIl Analysis section at the oil site and find out the truth in measuarble data as opposed to the uninformed opinions many are expressing here.

GC 0w-30 is a lot thicker than the M1 10w-30 and 5w-30, actually the 5w-30 has been reported thicker than the 10w-30 M1. Other brands are fine in 10w-30 oe 5w-30 it is M1 specifically that is not, and please no "they speced it in the Vette" That is EASILY explained by CAFE and marketting.

Oh and on change intervals 3K is really way overkill under the majority of conditions even with a basic dino oil much less a synthetic, take that into consideration when looking at the cost. My LT1 b-bodies have a change oil ight setup for use with basic dino available 10 years ago and it will trigger between 2500 and 7500miles according to the owners manual based on your usage. I have never had it kick on below about 5K and I do drag race and generally drive hard and in those COLD wisconsin winters. These cars have the same exact bottomend as the f-body so it is very relavant and oils have gotten better in the last 10 years and again thow synthetic on top of that as another reason you can go longer. There is also some evidence that wear temporarily spikes after an oil change so very short intervals may not be as good as everyone thought. Today a lot of manufacturers are saying 10K plus for oil changes too so this isn't just synthetic makers trying to sell you a product.

 

Talk about "overkill" : beating the, which oil use, horse to death is going to get you nowhere slow. There are those who have a perverse interest in oil--not that there is anything wrong with that--but you can put designer oil in at $10000000 bucks a quart, but if you don't pay attention to what you are putting it into, your likely to wind up with a puddle of expensive lube in the middle of the road. JMHO

 

just an update i have used 5w40 mobile1 truck suv. i could not find any g0w30 around here, no autozones, and they will not ship it. i was going to ask if there was anyone from around nw iowa that could direct me to a good dyno tuner. i heardx there are a couple in omaha nebraska, which is 100mi south. any ideas? the car i bought is bone stock and gets up pretty good. i plan to add the fipk k&n kit and maybe some exhaust then i wanted to get it dyno tuned. thanks for all the info. i have put around 500mi on it and i have to say i love and my kids love it, kids:''dad can we take the tops off?''. me:''yup''. kids:''awesome''. i have to to say that i find myself wanting to drive this more than riding my x1buell.

 

anyone know where to get an oem car cover for my 94 z28. the one i had ripped this weekend while putting it on.

 

+1...i see this one posting with a lot of questions about leaks...thats great mileage, but thats like buying a 63 impala thats all original with 50K on it thats not driven much at all...watch closely for a while with the leaks. congrats on the find! thats a killer find!

 

yeah i have been keeping a close eye on the floor in my garage. the only thing that i am concerned about is changing from havoline to a synthetic. i talked to the origianl owner and he sadi that about 13,000 of the mi came in the past 2 years. i just got back from a 300mi trip and everything went and ran smooth, i even blew away a bmw.

 

FWIW my experience with the synthetic switchover is more oil consumption.. that or its leaking into same black hole that swallows every bolt I drop in my engine bay. Previously I ran regular valvoline 10w30 and at 3k miles the dip stick read exactly what it did 3k miles before. Now with M1 0w40 I am missing 1/2 quart after 2k miles.