17x 11's worth it?
17x 11's worth it?
I am going to be purchasing a set of zr1 rims in the future and i was wondering if going for the 11s in stead of 9.5s is really worth the extra money both in the rims and tread, as far as traction is concerned
Hell yes! Even my stock, A4 SS had traction problems with 275 tires. Wet traction does suffer a bit, but dry grip (especially going around corners) will be greatly improved. I went with the 315s in the rear because I was going through 275s too much.
I paid a shop $100 to pound in and smooth the inner fender well, as well as roll the outer fender lip. This will pretty much keep the tires from rubbing on the inside, or outside. Other than that, it's recommended taht you get some jounce jumpers from SLP (the ones that come stock on the SS's, and you'll want to take a liitle material off one of the edges of each to make everything fit perfect.
Re: 17x 11's worth it?
You definitely have to see them in person. The look is just awesome! I didn't have an 11" option for my rims, or I definitely would be sporting them.
If you are getting ZR1's, go for the 11's!
E
If you are getting ZR1's, go for the 11's!
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Get the GS offset 11" rims. They are better tucked inside the fenders. I love the look and the handling. Car feels sure footed.
Here are some pictures..
Click here to see cars..
Here are some pictures..
Click here to see cars..
I've had several sets of 17x11 wheels with 315 tires. For traction, I'd have to say no. I just didn't notice a huge difference in traction between the 11s and the 9.5s that were on there. Plus, if anything, I think they may have hurt my overall performance. These wheels are considerably heavier and they are rotational weight as well. I believe the rotational weight difference is worth between a tenth and two tenths of a second. So, you'd have to gain traction worth more than at least a tenth to make it worth it IMO. But, this is assuming you are getting a "standard" type 11" wheel which costs less than $400. If you get a set of $4000 11" wheels which are much lighter then you may be able to offset the weight difference with the better traction (assuming you get the right tires for the job
).
I have my 11" wide rear wheels for looks. If I want to go fast I'll bolt on my drag radials mounted on stock wheels.
Keep in mind, I have no experience with 11" wide rears with drag radials so I may be off base here in that that combo might give great results and over come the weight difference? Not sure?
).I have my 11" wide rear wheels for looks. If I want to go fast I'll bolt on my drag radials mounted on stock wheels.
Keep in mind, I have no experience with 11" wide rears with drag radials so I may be off base here in that that combo might give great results and over come the weight difference? Not sure?
I found that a set of BFG 315/35-17 DR's on a set of the GS offset 17x11 wheels was the only thing that even came close to getting my stroker (NA version) to hook on the street. With the 3.73's it was marginal with 4.10's even the 315 DR's take a bit of restraint off the line....
315/35-17 DR on a 17x11 next to 275/40-17 GS-C on a 17x9.5
As far as the need for work to fit the 17x11's... NOT ALL CARS ARE THE SAME! I found I needed to:
-cut the corners off the stock jounce bumpers (do NOT buy the SLP jounce spacers, they are NOT required) to keep them from catching the inside of the rim when you jack the car.
-hammer the inner fenders a bit... I wouldn't pay someone $100 to do this.
-roll the fender lip under.... use a "Jimmy" tool, or you can do it with a baseball bat... no "swinging" required
-recenter the body over the axle assembly with an adjustable panhard rod. Usually not needed but if it wasn't centered to begin with, or you are just a bit ****, its worth it.
Others have told me they did not have to do ANY of the above.... so it seems to vary a little from car-to-car.
17x11's.......
315/35-17 DR on a 17x11 next to 275/40-17 GS-C on a 17x9.5
As far as the need for work to fit the 17x11's... NOT ALL CARS ARE THE SAME! I found I needed to:
-cut the corners off the stock jounce bumpers (do NOT buy the SLP jounce spacers, they are NOT required) to keep them from catching the inside of the rim when you jack the car.
-hammer the inner fenders a bit... I wouldn't pay someone $100 to do this.
-roll the fender lip under.... use a "Jimmy" tool, or you can do it with a baseball bat... no "swinging" required

-recenter the body over the axle assembly with an adjustable panhard rod. Usually not needed but if it wasn't centered to begin with, or you are just a bit ****, its worth it.
Others have told me they did not have to do ANY of the above.... so it seems to vary a little from car-to-car.
17x11's.......
mine fit, the only thing i had to do was "modify" the rubber thing in the wheel well. U guys shaved it?? i totally removed mine and pounded the entire thing flat with a minisledge,
. I don't think those things are really needed IMO
. I don't think those things are really needed IMO
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