95zeee28

do you guys think its better to change my thermo to 160....does it effect the way the car runs, all i have done is hypertech airfoil, k&n, flowmaster 80 series and no cat, do you also think im pushing 300 hp.

revtime

Without headers, no.
The 160 stat will help alot in my opinion but you need to program the PCM so the fans turn on sooner.
I am a big fan of keeping the engine running cooler, I think its alot easier on the engine as a whole and makes it last longer.

Got-LT1?

I highely reccomend the 160 degree t-stat as well, your car will run allot cooler while driving. If you buy/make a manual fan switch it will also help bring the temp down when sitting still. This is definatley not a power adder though, dont think you will see any hp increase... the t-stat will only keep you in a better power-heat range, as well as increasing the longivity of your motor... good luck


ps: if you want to make a manual fan switch search for a link to shoebox's page

95zeee28

is it hard to change the thermostat on these vehicles, also do you think im close to maybe 290 hp without cat and k&n, airfoil,flowmaster.

LT1der

The "get more power out of a 160* thermostat" myth is the biggest scam out there for stock engines. If you are running stock compression, no boost, and no juice, all the 160* thermostat will do is make your car run rich, robbing you of power. The LT1 tends to run on the rich side to begin with. The PCM is looking for a higher coolant temperature and if you run a 160*stat, it will modify your advance and fuel to run rich, especially if you drive your car in the winter. I am running a 180* thermostat, and I have no problems with overheating. My fans kick on at 195* and kick off at 180*. My fans stay off while I'm driving and the engine typically doesn't run over 185. When I'm at a stop or driving in traffic, the fans keep the engine right around 190. Even when I had the 160* stat, these were typically the temperatures I saw in the summer anyway. In the winter, I would see see 150-160 at highway speeds, and had a hard time getting warm air out of the heater. Since I went to the 180* stat, my winter temps average 175-180 and I have heat again!. The soot under my tailpipe from running too rich is also gone. I recommend the 160* stat only when you are trying to avoid detonation form higher compression, nitrous, or boost. If you just want to run cooler, stick with the 180* stat and reprogram your fans or get an aftermarket radiator.

CeeBee94Z

Do you have a manual fan switch or a reprogram? Because if not then your fans don't come on that soon at all. Stock programming doesn't turn the low speed fan on until 226 F and the high speed fan until 235 F or so....so if you aren't reprogrammed or have a manual switch you just don't sit in traffic long enough for it to go about 195 or whatever

Anyway, if you get the 160 the first thing you should do is either get a program or make a manual fan switch

revtime

160 and programming will not hurt you at all and will only help.
I have been running one with an Ed Wright program for years. In fact Ed put the 160 stat in himself when I drove down to Tulsa years ago to have him program the PCM, now do you really think Ed Wright would put a 160 stat in these cars if it was gonna hurt?
Its just my opinion as always but the best thing I did for longevity of the motor in my honest opinion was the 160 stat.

RedPhenx

on a stock car it wont hurt anything... it all depends on where you live. since I live in Atlanta and it gets quite hot during the summer and my car is rarely driven in winter, I got a 160* thermostat

LT1der

Do you have a manual fan switch or a reprogram? Because if not then your fans don't come on that soon at all. Stock programming doesn't turn the low speed fan on until 226 F and the high speed fan until 235 F or so.... [/QUOTE]

I have a thermostatic fan switch in the block running dual 11" SPALS and a Be Cool radiator. If you look at my sig, you'll see that I am running a stock LT1 in a Vega, and I guarantee my car holds more heat in than an F-body (also have a 2002 Z-28, so I know a bit about F-bodies!). And I live in west Texas, where it gets over 100 for about half the summer!

I should add besides compression, boost and juice, a reprogram may also require a 160* thermostat. Ed Wright is modifying your fuel and advance curves so the engine is running closer to detonation. A 160* stat may help you stay out of detonation if it isn't too hot outside. I've run my 180* stat all summer, and the only difference in temperatures I've seen is it gets to peak temperature sooner than it did with the 160* stat, and my fans come on more often when I'm driving in traffic. But my average temperature haven't changed much-- with a 160* stat, you aren't going to run much cooler in the summer. The cooling system simply isn't efficient enough to keep you much below 180-190. But the fans should be reprogrammed to come on at a lower temperature than stock no matter whether you are running a 160* or 180* stat.

I'll say it again-- the idea that you will gain HP by swapping to a 160* thermostat on a stock engine is a myth! You will probably actually lose a bit due to running rich. No, it won't "hurt" your engine, just decrease performance, mileage, and heater output on a stock engine or PCM.

Tell you what-- my 160* thermostat is sitting in the garage-- first $10 plus shipping takes it!

revtime

In your Vega I can see alot of difference, in my 94 Camaro.....
No decrease in performance, no running the same temps I was before (it stays much cooler, even in the summer), my mileage did not decrease in fact it went up (its down now cause of more mods).
The heat from the heater I agree with but thats the only thing.
Sorry but I have had a great expierence with the 160 stat and tuning so I HIGHLY reccomend it.