seeing how my friends can rebuild rears and weld and all that stuff, i was wondering if any of the older gear heads here could point me in the right direction. what car do i want to pull this rear off of?

What i imagine i'll need to do some fabbing up.... whats to add/subract when taking off this car u reccomend. I'm not good with old car specs, prob because i was born in 84

 

Sorry old buddy but you won't get a rear out of any other car that will be stronger and be able to hook up to the torque arm.

I just went through everything for mine and it won't work. You have to buy a rear made for the car that can take abuse.

Btw, I have a 8.5" 10 bolt cheap.

Strange, Moser or Currie. about 2k by the time you're done so mine is on hold for now

see ya

 

8.5''? how much?

 

The first $40.00 takes it away.

Send requests to jamianddave@juno.com

Offer ends May 31st, void where prohibited.

LOL

Do you want pictures of why the exchange won't work?

 

theres at least one member on this board that HAS done an 8.5 swap into their car, so it will work.

 

THeres a good idea. Cobble a Mudstang rear end so it works with your tubes. Bet that looks real good, and dosent have any leaks or problems. Talk about a Orphan. Dude, do it right, but a housing and have it built. You havent cut corners on your car before....Right? Why start now?????

Q

 

Hold on,
Im confused now-
there are guys fabbing up ford 9'', 8.8's and numerious other rear ends. Why cant I?

 

What they mean is the problem is going to be with the torque arm hook up.
It is very hard to come up with a good design that will be strong and give you the two bolt holes in the correct location for the TA. You will have to weld some sort of a bracket to to the axle tubes that gices you the correct location and clears under the car. And the weld to the axle tube has to be very strong so you rixk blowing through the tube or warping in. If you get some cast iron rods you can try to weld it to the housing, but I don't know how it will hold the steel to the cast???

Another thing that you can do, which I personally did, is to get some square tube steel cut it at a radius to match the axle tube and then at an angle to match the lower control arm. This makes sort of a ladder bar on top of the TA.


This can be done but it is very time consuming if you want it to last and look good. I have done this with a dana 60 and it looks pretty good. And it's stronger than the 9" or 12 bolt.

If I was you, I wouldn't waste my time with the 8.5" considering it isnt that much stronger than stock. If you're going to take the time to do it, I would do it with a Ford 9" or a dana 60. Strange sells complete Dana 60's with trac-loc for $1425 and All you have to do is have you're brackets welded on and get a new DS and fabricate a TA mount.

Good luck to you man.

 

LOL, the torque arm mount is the main issue, you'll have to make a two peice block to weld onto the front of the pumpkin.

you'll make to make sure the doner rear has the brackets for the control arms in the right place to begin with. if not there's alot more work involved in welding those on. i didn't have to.

bolt in styles are a big plus, early 80's full size chevy's offered these in a 8.5" 10 bolt. mine was the width of a 3rd gen, so you buy new rims with 0.0 offset to accomodate.

buy new axles if you wish to retain the stock bolt pattern.

any other questions feel free to email me.

OH, PS: a 12 bolt has 8.875 " gear, i think 8.5" is way better than 7.5 and they seem to hold up just great in the grand nationals. so you may want to rethink the whole, 8.5 isn't much stronger than stock