I have run .030 on the street,but don't recommend it for the novice builder 'cause most don't have the tool's to check it with or take the time to do it. The fun stops when it sounds like the valves need adj or an exhaust leak, but valve adj don't fix it and no leak.

 

I pretty much had to order my engine builder to do it. He kept telling me I would need race fuel. He really wanted to port my heads and I wouldn't let him. He kept trying to sell me some top pro line heads. I had to tell him over and over that unless they are reverse cool, forget it. I had to stay on him to just do what Lloyd was asking for.His mentality is the old big block knuckle dragger type. I'd be scared as hell to bring him an LS1

 

Yea,I hear ya. Some of the shops do what has prove reliable for THEM and don't want to walk on the wild side 'cause of making a mistake and having to warranty their mistake.
Luckily I have a machine shop that is owned by an old fart(like me) and has the knowledge it takes to keep up with the latest. He also builds some FINE engines and we understand each other.

 

No timing was pulled. Your friend is thinking about old school SBCs. The LT1 is reverse cooled and can take a lot of compression.

Higher compression is more efficient.

You have to pull timing for nitrous if you run the same pump gas. I think its 2 degrees for every 50 shot.

 

Racerdude sure knows his stuff !
Thanks for your effortless help and helping some of us newbies out ....

 

Anytime

THANKS

 

94zgreenmachine- what is your dynamic compression ratio if I may ask?

 

9:1 . It is the safest to run on pump gas. I am sure it could be stretched a bit but a good tune is also very important.

 

Good cooling also.

 

yup. The car runs a tad bit hotter now than it did when stock but it still never gets above 180*. I suppose when you double the HP of the car thats to be expected!

 

Are you maybe meaning a Mr. Gasket 5716. Only reason I ask because I'm looking at different head gasket options and I so far haven't found a FelPro 5716.

Thx.

 

Chris,
If ya go with tight quench and it runs good,don't tell everybody that ya did the tight quench.Let um find out on their own.It took several years of trial and error for me to catch a clue. For board members .
.036 is fine if ya got GOOD quality steel rod's.I would rather see the combustion chamber in the head v part of it in the block with the piston being in .010 in the block,but I'm picky.

 

sorry, I didn't even catch that. Your right, I meant Mr. Gasket.

 

You talking about a mag base and dial indicator, deck-to-piston-@-TDC, measurement 'dude?

Yeah, I do that too. Even check it on all eight cylinders.

My problem with the "tight is right" arguement is this.... you can't calculate the dynamic clearance easily. Take into account some of the variables we'll need to do that and ask some questions....

How much does the rod stretch at peak rpm or at off-throttle?
How much does the crank flex?
How much does the piston expand (perpendicular to the pin bore)?
Piston rock?

Too many variables for a static check to be the end-all that determines where the piston and head won't touch.

And I'm sure many of you remember this discussion from Advanced Tech. Circle Track magazine did a test a number of years ago showing the effect of tighter quench and found a point of very diminishing returns. .025 vs .035-.040 power differences were less than a % in a 600 hp asphalt race motor.

Just my 2 cents.

-Mindgame

 

Not to hijack, but Mindgame I'd be interested in your opinion on the below. Because I'm not too smart I've got a block that's been o-ringed, (long story), at any rate my current setup has my piston's .016 in the hole, giving me a .056 quench with my current Flatout Gasket. I probably can go to a .031 gasket that would put me at about .046 quench. They sell a .021 which would put me right where I want to be but they wouldn't recommend that because the wire could cut through the gasket. Do you think I should live with the .056 or maybe the .046 rather than scrap the current block and just start over. I'm even a little apprehensive about the .030 gasket as the wire, about .010 would be into the copper about a third of the gasket thickness. I really don't want the orings or the copper gasket but I'm kind of forced to live with it right now.

Kind of weighing my options right now, I even put the existing block that I've already got too much money in up for sale to see if there would be any interest. I'm pretty frustrated but it's my own fault, I should have done more research before starting out with this block.