I dont want to hear that!! But I figure that is what will happen if i ever get to run the 1/4 on a good day....

Let us know how the new set up is working!!

 

Hey Shon I have found that if you use 1.57 on that 1/8th mi. calculator it is closer to actual 1/4mi. times at least on all the cars I did it with. The 1.56 is giving a couple hundredths. So that shows you are in the 12.0's but better weather should change that

 

I am going to have to get a better tune then....I usually take my 1/8th mile and divide by .647, that is the average for my car. This average is based on 3 different 1/4 mile tracks....

 

Well that would put my 7.64 1/8th mile at 11.80's which it only ran a 12.001@113mph. I don't know how I could run any faster in the second 1/8th b/c I have good mph. Multiplying times 1.56=11.91 which is close and 1.57=11.99 which is dead accurate. When I ran 12.40 last year my 1/8th mile times were 7.90 and that comes out to 12.40 exactly when multiply times 1.57. Yours may be different but I don't see how. What was your old 1/8th mi. ETs when you ran 12.20's?

 

I only did a 12.27 with a 7.804, which is what you said, 1.57...I am gonna need alot less weight...to get to my 11.99 run I want from the HOT cam. I can do that!!

 

I don't understand how Ken went 11.80 with stock LT1 heads but he Ed Wright dynotuning which I think that is what you are missing. He also had some good air which would help also. He did that with 3.42's and a 3540lb raceweight.

 

I wonder alot of things......you just hope when you go to the track it is going to be a good day and a new best....the weather/track/shifts/etc just have to be perfect for 12 seconds...that is all I ask.....

What is funny now people ask me how racing went and i get goofy nuts about saying i drove it there and raced and it made it home on its own power....there was a time when i was making trips to the track and riding back in a roll back...that is alot of fun...NOT!!

I really do think i can hit the 11.99 plateu but I just need it all to align....

 

That is what I was wanting to hear, that it can be done.

Now aside from weight reduction what other mods can get me to my goal?

 

Get the bottle for sure (DUH!).
A good set of ET Streets or Drags in the 26" variety. Put them on some light rims (welds for example) and get some skinnies.
Pray for a great hooking track and nice weather and go for it.
Probably will want to go to a lower elevation track than Bristol though, that is going to take a lot of HP to make it up there.

But you have the TC/gears that will get you there. Taken out the weight will drop you quick!! Or it did me.

You mention 1.7s in your first post, if you have 1.6s already i dont think the expense would be nessesary(sp). An EWP will free up some HP but it can be done with the stocker. You will want some 104 type plugs; ie colder plugs and the appropriate gap.

 

You will need Dynotuning, some skinnies and probably some trueduals wouldn't hurt either. A 4inch mufflex catback would probably sufficient. I dropped my catback last week b/c i installed trueduals and bullets and lost 40lbs.

 

I would say you're going to need atleast a 200 shot, slicks,skinnies and loose some weight. I don't think the cam will be the thing to hold you back. the heads are holding you back more
Let us know how it goes

 

I don't normally race at Bristol, so the elevation of the track won't be that bad.

I thought about the true duals, do you think that would add more hp?

TA/LT1 so you say changing over will drop around 40lbs

Does anyone know of a place within a reasonable distance from Eastern Kentucky.

I was asking about the 1.7's because I saw on the kyfbodies page that a guy switched from 1.6's to 1.7 with the HOT CAM and gained 15 rwhp.

 

I've had 1.8 rockers on my hot cammed car for about 300 miles now. It pulls really hard up top. I haven't dynoed it or had it to the track yet but in is definately more than a 20whp gain. I'm hoping for 375-400whp.
Kory

 

Kory, 1.8's?? That is the first that I have heard of that. Let me know how that works out. I won't be getting any more parts until up in the winter. What brand are they? What else has to be changed to get them to work?

 

I used k motion k800 springs and titanium retainers, and trickflow pushrods. I lashed the valves real tight also. The rockers a made by comp cams. the lift jumps from .525 to .592.
I hope to have some track times and dyno numbers in the next few weeks.
Kory