these are the parts and prices I have so far, I will be ordering come the 2nd of october.

40-10308-1 Crane Aluminum Head LT1 Spring & Retainer Kit, set of 16 $179.99
63-1418-16 Comp Cams Magnum Self-Aligning Roller-Tip Rocker Arms, 3/8" stud, 1.6 Ratio $186.00
63-7940-16 Comp Cams Hi-Tech One-Piece Chromemoly pushrods, 7.200" (OEM Roller - Factory Length) $119.95

First off, Will these go fine with a Stock (under the valve covers) otherwise LT1 if installed? and am I getting ripped off at those prices? Im still looking for better, so any help is appreciated, and thanks for the help!

 

Stock pushrods will work fine with self aligning rockers. Those springs are fine but they are overkill for the stock cam. If you have no plans to change the cam you can use LT4 springs and retainers, they are much less expensive. I don't know about those rockers, their width may be a problem with LT1 valve covers. I'd go with Pro Magnums.

 

I totally agree... LT4 springs are much cheaper and are plenty good enough. Unless you plan to do cam later on. But heck why not just pull the intake and the water pump and the opti and timing cover and the timing gear and chain... and do a cam swap I mean you're half way there O yea, and if you drop a valve just get em ported and polished while the heads are off....

 

well thats fine, but I do plan on doing a major cam (cc306, or xe series) I just know I want a stronger valvetrain if it is going to cost me this kind of $$ anyways. any other suggestions towards a upper valvetrain upgrade? (I want some horsepower and added durability for the cam)

 

I'm not trying to tell you what to do or anything, just suggest, but why not just hold off and do it all at once. You will have to remove the rockers when you do the cam anyway. It would just save you some extra work.

 

reason is because I want to pay to have someone do the cam, but wont pay them to do the RR's and valvesprings since that can be done myself

sorry for not saying earlier.

 

So..... how is that going to work. When they do the cam they will be taking the rockers on and putting them back on unless you tell them not to. Are you going to have them partially do the cam swap? If you are going to have them just do the front of the engine (cam) then take everything from the intake to the opti and water pump off yourself, as well as the rockers and pushrods, that should save you some money. Depending on your resources a cam swap is not that terribly hard to do yourself. Good Luck

 

well thats a good point... How I was going to do it was install those parts myself, and then at a later time when I have $$ get the cam swapped in... I want some more bolt on hp basically because I have no clue when I will have some more $$. College sucks (without a job). I have always wanted to do a cam swap, but I would need the best ever how to manual and I would need an air compressor to hold the valves up... and a lot more tools than I have now. I do however have about 5 friends that would help.... We just do not have the time or the garage (college again).

for a cam install at a DEALERSHIP in lubbock (cant find any place better!!!) its like 300$. for the RR's and the valvesprings its like 240$. If I install the RR's/valvesprings I save the 240$ (I did find another shop in town, checking prices tomorrow)

 

I feel for you, once again good luck...

 

Those Rockers that you are planning on gettin are just roller tip i believe. I would save another $100 and get FULL roller rockers. not just the tips. Just my two cents

Josh

 

i just did the 1,6 roller tip rockers and lt4 springs 3 weeks ago, rockers were $191 from summit and springs were $32 from local dealer, also got a KD valve spring tool, $50 you will need that, pushrods i left alone, now not to bad mouth you but are you mechanical enough to do the valve spring swap and get the rockers adjusted by yourself? by reading some of the stuff you have said i tend to belive you need to do a little more studying, just lookin out for ya, cause if you drop a valve you're F##KED, and that would create a ton more work...GOOD LUCK

 

i havent read the how-to's in months because I havent really had the time, I am a Mechanical Engineer at texas tech right now. The last thing I did to my car where the headers, no leaks for 3 yrs now.