Hey everyone,

I have a 96Z with the mods listed. I now have about $2000 to spend. I'm thinking headers, off road y-pipe, electric cutout, madz28 tune, ripper shifter. Keep in mind that some of the money has to go towards installation.

 

You should try to install the stuff yourself.

Headers will be very expensive to get installed.
With an Offroade Y-pipe why no just get a true dual from the headers setup instead? Texas Speed sell them for $419 shipped and they dump right before the rear axles
The madz28 tune is good but after you do all your mods.
You should get some gears, 3.73's or 4.10's depend on what you prefer.

That just about puts you over the limit though.

 

I'm gonna have the cutout after the y-pipe, so doesn't that mean it will flow as good if not better than true duals. Part of the reason for this is I want it to look stock (good for the unsuspecting).

 

He's right. I would take some of that money and go buy a tool set and a Haynes manual. 2k could get you some good mods if you install them yourself. If you're paying for installation you will only get 1/2 the mods. Headers installed, alone would cost close to 1K+. If you do the work yourself you could spend $500 in tools. $750 for headers and about $750 for a cam and parts. There are many install guides on the net.

 

I've never been partial to cut outs. It's good for a sleeper i supppose. i have found that the bare minum for a head/cam install is $3500. I'm about to do a llyod elliot stage 1.5 which should net me around 400rwhp. You should save up and do the headers and heads and cam all at once unless of course you are still insisting a shop do the work for you.

If so, go with some gears. You should upgrade your brakes. Performance wise it doesnt make much of a difference but it is alot nicer to slow dont from 150mph without brake fade. i have heard LS1 conversions are good. I used drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads. Either are much better than stock.

Bypass your Throttle body ---- free on your year
Hypertech 160 degree thermostat ---- $16
3.73 rear end gears ------ $215
electric cutout ---- $130


As for the installs im not really sure. The thermostat you could do yourself. I would reccomend back flushing your entire engine though with a cheapo preston it from Wal-mart. It's like $4.83. You'd be suprised how dirty the coolant is. Dirty coolant -> poor flow -> poor cooling -> loss in performance.

The thermostat and TB bypass are the first 2 i would do though. You can do both in an hour with no car experience, a 10mm wrench and a flat head screw driver. Maybe a pair of pliers if your radiator drain plug is tight.

 

if you are looking to make this car run in the 11's or think you might abuse your power at all ii would say spend that two g's on a nice 12 bolt with some 4.11's this will give you the SOTP feel to let you now your car likes what you done.
But if your not gonna be beating the **** out of it then i would do all the little boltons like every one else is sayin

 

Think ahead to what you want to run in the future. If you want to go crazy fast, get the rear end done now, since you have the money.

 

Pacesetter long tubes = $250 custom y- pipe bent at a shop and labor for install on headers $600 gears 4.10's $150 install is around $350 tnw n2o kit $550

TOTAL $1,950

no install on the n2o kit its easy

 

Pacesetter LT's $375 coated,
Summit 2.5" X pipe with 18" bullets, $200
Pro-5.0 shifter $200
Madz28 tune $175

Total $950

You'll be right around 300rwhp with these mods and have the best sounding exhaust. Drive it like this for awhile, and put the other grand toward engine work or for a rainy day. I hope this convinces you to do the work yourself.

Jason

 

thats a ok set up but with my suggestion he will be a hell of a lot faster

 

Where do you live? Might be able to get some local F-body guys to help you install the parts for next to nothing if anything at all.

Id go with some jethot LTs with y-pipe and maybe subframe connectors. Then if you have any money left get some bilstein HD shocks.

 

I'm in Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada.

 

4.10s and subframes all the way. Deffinetly the best bang for the buck as far as the way you probably want your car to feel. Since you have a 6 speed, 4.10s are the way to go, they'll get you out of the hole on a launch and they're fun to play with. The overdrive in a 6 speed will keep them managable as far as drivability and gas mileage goes.

Subframes can't be expained as well as they can be felt. You know when you get on the car and it gets loose over even the smallest bumps? That's the frame twisting. Subframes make that all go away- it makes the car safer/ more fun to drive plus it'll make alot of the sqeaks and rattles dissapear.

 

Oh yeah,
Then headers, then shifter, maybe N20... then back to the bank. I'll see you in line.