I have a 2001 SS camaro w/slp mods, quad tip'd borla exhaust. I'm roughling estimating around 350hp on my car right now. And am wanting to breach 450hp without doing anything like nO2, blowers, turbo's.

Ok, My route so far is Z06 Heads, high flow cats, and a hot cam. But im not sure if that'd get me up to 450hp, if not, could someone give me a quick & cheap way to breach that point?

Thanks, Caleb

 

Depends if it is an A4 or M6. That combo would be lucky to make 380 on an A4 ... I did 402 with a hotcam, TEA S2 heads, LT, no cats, through a cutout and tuned the f*ck out of it on 100 octane gas ... my street tune only put down 380.

Getting 450 to the wheels "quick and cheap", depends on your defintion of "quick and cheap" ... it'll take a big cam, at least S2 heads, all the engine bolt ons - LID or FIPK, LTs, not cats, cut out or true duals, pulley, ported TB and probably a FAST intake, injectors and some serious tuning.

 

Its an M6, my cheap is like at most 5grand..

 

First, are you talking wheel hp or flywheel hp. Whp, you are not going to be at 350 right now.

For 450 whp, think big cam and heads ported to match w/ALL supporting mods.

Unless your car is just a dyno queen and you are all about bragging rights and bench racing, you're much better off building your car to hook up and getting a nice combination that works together instead of going for peak hp numbers.

 

i dont understand why people dont want power adders? i mean they are not too expensive and they help meet 450 rwhp goals... with 5k that sts turbo or some s'charge seems like it would be way more streetable than a huge cam... nitrous is just as safe with people who understand how to use it.

 

most of this was kindda answered in your other post

but here are some numbers

lid - $100
FAST intake w/TB - $1200
cam and kit - $500
heads - $2000
injectors - $250
LT headers - $500
true duals - $250
misc parts (gaskets, head bolts etc) - $500
dyno tune - $300

that should get close to your goal...for the bargain price of $5600

now add to that a new clutch to hold the power...$800
and in pretty short order you'll need a new rear end to handle the power - $2500

not to mention all the other things associated with going fast like brakes, suspension, safety provisions for the track, tires to hook up.

yep....now you see why they say
"speed takes money....how fast do you wanna go??"

 

dont forget to put 12 bolt rear in there... i have an Lt1 putting according to my times that ive run that are similar times to what other ppl are putting down on teh dyno im around 480hp..... and broke EVERY tooth off of my 410 gears i had in the rear.... so yeah like these guys said.... u gotta figure if u want dyno queen or track star... do the mods accordingly

 

Well, I'm not really planning on draging it and stuff. I just want to be able to keep ahead of some of my friends cars (2004 gto, 95 300zx, z28 3rd gen camaro with lt1, mustangs...etc..) So, would the 12 bolt really be necessary? I have the slp rear end (373s)

 

If you're pushing over 400 you don't even have to lauch it to break it. All it'll take is a good 1-2 shift that hooks and you'll snap it real good. On the other hand there is a guy tat hangs around ls1tech that's pushing 450 na and well over 600 on n2o and he's still using the stock rear end. He only goes from a roll in second or third though so that's why he hasn't snapped it yet.

 

Well, say I'm running about 400hp would that be to risky on stock rear end?? If so, how much would it cost me to put a 12bolt in??

Thanks, Caleb

 

Cam, headders, Lid, filter... I'm @ 336/346 w/ the mods listed below. They LS1 techs that tuned my car told me that the FM14 cam would give me guaranteed 400+rwhp. But, yeah, I'd start worring about the rear giving out. If it's an auto, mabie not too much but still. M6's yeah.. I'm planning some MAJOR mods for the summer and one of them is a moser 12B w/ 3.83's to help handle the power.

 

Learn how to drive and you can beat all the cars you listed. Unless "mustangs" includes a blown Cobra, or any of your friends has a very very modified car, then learning how to drive your car will put you ahead of the cars you listed. The Goat is powered by the same motor as your car but it's heavier, the LT1 could hang with you if it's set up right, but you could easily blow his doors off with some simple mods, and a Mustang or the Nissan would need some serious power adders to keep up.

As far as the 12 bolt being "necessary", it's not necessary until you break the 10 bolt. With an M6 car, you'll probably do that sooner than you'd like. So you could go about it 2 ways: spend a bunch of money on power that you probably already will have trouble putting to the ground. Or spend money on traction and handling, and you'll go faster because you'll be able to put the power you already have to the ground.

Your first post in this thread asks for a "quick & cheap" way to achieve 450 horsepower. You're asking for trouble. A quick & cheap way to get to 450 horsepower will quickly turn into a broken car. You could throw a nitrous kit on there for under $1,000 and maybe a day of work. It would be quick & easy. But your car will be broken just as quickly. What's that one saying, something about quick, cheap, and done right? Hmmm....

Abe

 

So true ... it doesn't take a ton of power to go fast. Built right and driven right a 450rwhp LS1 Camaro is a 10 second car. If you don't know what you're doing with it, you will soon become intimately familiar with Mr. Wall or Mr. Ditch.

Power will not compensate for driving skill.

 

for the rear, it's like someone mentioned. it's not neccessary till you break the 10bolt.

there is no exact hp level that will break the rear. some guys do it with bone stock and sticky tires. some guys run 400+ hp and steet tires with no problems for a long time.

but if you plan to run 400hp and sticky tires to get traction...don't count on it lasting long. how long ....impossible to tell.

 

How much power can he expect if he mills the heads down alot?