what is a REVERSE SPLIT CAM???
what is a REVERSE SPLIT CAM???
I was looking at some of the "MTI rides" on their website and one of the Camaros (black 2000 SS M6) says it has a reverse split cam. What does that mean? I have also heard to people referring to reverse duration cams. What are these types of cams? Are they CA smog legal? Do they put out huge numbers or something? This may be a dumb question, and the answer may be simple as hell, but im lost
.
Thanks for the help fellas.
.Thanks for the help fellas.
thanks dude, i thought it might be something as simple as that
. Whats the deal with these cams, do our cars like them? If that is a reverse split, then what is it when the exhaust duration is more than the intake duration.
Well, looks like im askin some newbie questions here.....
. Whats the deal with these cams, do our cars like them? If that is a reverse split, then what is it when the exhaust duration is more than the intake duration.Well, looks like im askin some newbie questions here.....
224/224 .525/.525 112ls - Single Pattern
224/228 .525/.540 112ls - Split Pattern
228/224 .540/.525 112ls - Reverse Split Pattern
Since I can have Comp/Lunati/Crane or whoever grind me a cam through where i work (Ramchargers) my cam wont be like any of those
hehe
224/228 .525/.540 112ls - Split Pattern
228/224 .540/.525 112ls - Reverse Split Pattern
Since I can have Comp/Lunati/Crane or whoever grind me a cam through where i work (Ramchargers) my cam wont be like any of those
hehe
Originally posted by Siggy
Whats the deal with these cams, do our cars like them?
Whats the deal with these cams, do our cars like them?
.I may be right, may be wrong on this one, but I think that as a rule, cams with a reverse split (ie: more on the intake) will produce more torque, vs regular split cams (more on the exhaust) produce higher horsepower
. IMO, a cam that's a single pattern is a "good - all - around" type of cam
. Again, I may be really generalizing something here, but that's somewhat along the lines of accurate (I think
).
Very true, for instance on a lt1 motor the flow on the exhaust side of the head isn't that great so you would want to run more duration on the exhaust and even a little more lift as well. However as we're seeing on the ls1 heads the exhaust flow isn't bad at all in comparison to the intake and thats why you can get away with more duration on the intake side than the exhaust side
As mentioned the reverse split duration cam is for those unique applications where the exhaust side (headers or manifolds/ports) flows better (in relation - not outright flow numbers!) then the intake side (air filter/ducting/maf/intake runner /ports). The LS1 when equipped with headers and run naturally aspirated happens to be one of those applications. Most LS6 cars I've seen do not respond to the reverse split cam, as the intake ports on the LS6 are better than the stock LS1.
Now throw forced induction or N2O the equation and now you will need regular split duration to move all the extra burnt exhaust gases
Just remember that all engines are simple air pumps. But there is a fine balance to achieving the proper air in to air out ratio
Now throw forced induction or N2O the equation and now you will need regular split duration to move all the extra burnt exhaust gases
Just remember that all engines are simple air pumps. But there is a fine balance to achieving the proper air in to air out ratio
You are correct sir! The LS6 manifold helps to crutch the LS1 head intake flow. A reverse split cam (i.e TR230/224) makes good top end hp on stock LS1 heads when combined with headers/LS6 intake/ported TB. But the reverse split also takes away some low and mid range throttle response by flooding the intake stroke with more air at low/mid engine speeds. That's why the cam rpm operating range starts at a high low end rpm (around 2000rpm), but extends to 6800 rpm. It will charge like a beeyach at a buffet on the top end
but will be lazy for normal driving
It's all a matter of what you want to do. Race all the time in a straight line, power shifting @ 6800rpm so the revs don't drop - get the 230/224. Trade some top end for some mid range and a bit better drivability - get the straight 224/224. It's all in what YOU want from the car.
but will be lazy for normal driving
It's all a matter of what you want to do. Race all the time in a straight line, power shifting @ 6800rpm so the revs don't drop - get the 230/224. Trade some top end for some mid range and a bit better drivability - get the straight 224/224. It's all in what YOU want from the car.
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Alex Barnes
LT1 Based Engine Tech
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Jan 24, 2015 10:21 PM



