Sometime in November I will have about $1600 to spend. I need some advice on what I should get next.

I was thinking Hooker LT headers, ory, and maybe a cam.

If I do get a cam, what would be a good choice? I have an a4, it's not a daily driver, but I would like it to be streetable. I would use it more on the street than on the strip. So I guess low to mid range power. I would like the idle to be a bit more aggresive.

If you don't think the LT's, ory, and cam are a good choice for right now, what else can you recommend?

Mods are in sig (the 3.73s haven't been installed yet).

Thanks for all replies!!

Mike G.

 

When you say streetable, do you mean CARB smog legal streetable? (LTs are not smog legal in California.)

 

I'm aware that none of the LTs are legal due to the removal/relocation of the cats. I was referring more towards the cam. What I meant was I didn't want a cam that was too aggressive at idle. Pretty much, I wouldn't want a big cam. Just something that gives good low-mid range power. Sorry for the confusion.

Also, what exactly would I have to do about the tuning? Since I don't have LS1-edit, what are my options?

Thanks!

Mike G.

 

When it comes to cams I have questions too.

Can anyone elaborate on California ARB (smog legal) cams and what gains one can expect from them?

Thanks in advance.

 

I would suggest MTI's B1 Cam

221/221 .558/.558 114 LSA

It is their "smallest" cam, but much larger than your stock one and will make great power and idle well.

Your stock cam is 198/197 .478/.478 115 LSA.

 

TTT
Anyone else?

 

well, i don't see a stall converter in your list so that's a possibility along with a transgo install. the cam install after you get the stock heads upgraded with the springs and upgraded programming is usually over a grand by itself. you could use a shorty (emissions legal) header since it would still outflow a stock manifold.

 

You know, I was thinking about getting a TC. I've heard a lot of good things about them. I haven't had my gears installed yet. If I get a TC installed, would the 3.73's be necessary? Right now I have the stock 3.23's.

As far as the total cost of the cam costing a little over $1k, is that including a kit, installation, and programming? Or just the kit & programming? What kind of shop would be able to do a cam swap?

Shorties would be out of the question. They seem like a waste of money. I'm not too concerned about being smog legal since my friend's father can pass me on the test. For headers, I was thinking either the Hooker's or QTP's (Grots). Any comments/suggestions?

Sorry if I'm rambling on, but I have one more question. Right now I have the LM exhaust. After a LT header install, I'm sure my car will just a little too loud. What could I swap the resonator with so it won't be as loud, yet flow the same?

Again, sorry it's so long. I just want to be sure I have all the info before I spend my hard earned money.

Thanks. Mike G.

 

I run a Vig 2800 (stalls at 3000-3100) with 2.73s. I don't even know it's there anymore. 3.23s will be fine. Go with about 3200-3500 stall unless you're getting a BIG-*** cam, which it doesn't sound like you want to do.

You're gonna want a cam, new valvesprings (to accommodate the lift), maybe some hardened pushrods, and all the gaskets and bolts. I'd also recommend changing the timing chain and oil pump while it's open.

Installation I think might be like $300-$400. Not sure how much for tuning, but if you have a laptop/LS1-Edit, you can do it yourself. Lots of guides sitting around on the internet about how.

 

on the camshaft, book time is around 12 hours or so to change the camshaft and valve springs. some dealers will install it, but not alot of shops will tackle it. as for programming, i was including 450 for ed wright programming and 12 hours would run you about 700 to 900 for an expensive shop. most kits are around 400 to 700 bucks. as for the gear, my opinion is to stay with the 3.23 if your getting a good converter as it will help with hooking up on the street compared to 3.73. your probably better off selling the loudmouth kit and replacing it with something quieter like a corsa or slp normal kit. i would agree, long tubes and loudmouth is and obnoxious combo. my choice for the ls1 headers is slp's, but there are many nice one's out there.