Critter

i'm looking to buy a Ls1 m6 as a daily driver and wondering what kind of power i can get out of it with bolt ons.

also what are some 1/4 times?

i really want a m6, but i know how fast these things get with a 3400 stall! are the stalled autos gonna be a lot faster than a m6 with the same mods?

Kraest

Power with bolt-ons for an LS1 ranges from 300rwhp-350+rwhp through a 6-speed.

1/4 mile times for a bolt-on LS1 are anywhere from 10.90s-14s.

Autos aren't any faster than manuals as long as you can drive them and you don't blow up the 10-bolt and you hook up. -- The first naturally-aspirated 346 LS1 in the 9s was driven by Allan Futral of Futral Motorsports using a 6-speed - 9.9@136.xx

Mike

Critter

good i don't want another auto. i'm getting 13mpg on the highway...zzz. that deep m6 is gonna help the cause A LOT.

so a lid, td's into dynomax bullets, lt's, ls6 intake, electric wp, tune is that about the proper order and right start?

AL SS590 M6

If you are going to stay bolt-on and NOT get into cam or heads/cam then skip the true duals. Long tubes with OR Y-pipe into a good 3 inch catback will flow all the air that you'll need and not have the hassle of the TDs.

JakeRobb

For optimal power, make sure you get Kooks or QTP headers. It's been demonstrated repeatedly that they're better for power than the competition. They're also stainless steel, which is good for longevity and looks, not to mention underhood temperatures.

Dynomax bullets... if you must, but Corsa, Borla, and Magnaflow make the same power and sound better. Corsa and Borla are expensive, but Magnaflow's not bad. Just don't get a Flowmaster -- they flow worse than stock. You could also go the e-cutout route.

I'm making 325rwhp with just a lid and a Corsa catback. Another guy is making 340+ with the same setup. Suffice it to say, some LS1 M6's will go beyond 350rwhp with bolt-ons and a tune.

You might want to add one of the ram-air setups (SSRA, for example) to your list. It won't help your dyno numbers, but it makes a difference on the road and at the strip.

Critter

Thanks for the help but i'm sold on the bullets, for the price and flow they are pound for pound the best muffler out there.

Critter

yeah i was thinking about that. until then i'm going to go with dynomouth (dynomax bullet after the y pipe, split after the axle for cosmetics) i'm not going to go with the td's x pipe and bullets until i get the lt's heads and cam.

Bayer-Z28

I'm wondering what people consider "full bolt ons"..

As far as mine, 2000 Camaro Z28 M6. (3 years ago) 336/346 RWHP/RWTQ FROM:
LS1 Edit, SLP LT's, Catted Y, Borla CB No plate, lid, Filter, P+P'd TB, Bellows, All Free mods, TR5 Plugs, Taylor Wires (not that plugs and wires matter).. All I can remember..

I have since added: LS6 Intake, TSP Rumbler CB, 160* Stat (fans turned down from LS1 Edit), Clutch, New trans,Deleted: cats, EGR, AIR (not that it matters, except EGR), a LOT more, but that's it as far as engine stuff.. It should be at 350rwhp by now w/ a retune.

I really need a tune, but I'm getting a cam soon, so I don't want to spend $240 twice in 5 months. it has since broken in. The dyno was at about 20,500 miles. It has 44k on it now. It seemed to start to pull harder at around 37k miles. I think that's when It broke in.. About late last year, early this year.

Kraest

LS6 intake comes with 2001+ cars.

Electric waterpump isn't really necessary unless you're trying to buy every single bolt-on you can -- it's worth around 8rwhp for $600+.

Don't forget the underdrive pullies, which add around 8 rwhp on the LS1.

Also, if you need a new clutch/flywheel, the LS2 flywheel / LS7 clutch is good for a bolt-on car.

3.90-4.10 gears are also your friend

Mike

89385formula

I made 353rwhp through 9" rear(3.89gears) with these bolt ons, in the order they were done. Lid/K&N, UD pulley, P&P TB, LS6 intake, Edelbrock LTs/ORY, Hooker catback.

As far as track times, with this setup I ran very low 8's(2.0 60fts) in the 1/8 mile. DA was poor at 2900+/- a few, I don't have the slips in front of me right now. This was while having clutch issues though.

I will also voice my opinion on something else as well. If you car is going to mainly a street car then the M6 is fine, however me and an abundance of others have had problems with the LS1/M6 clutch hydraulics, personally I have been fighting many gremlins with setup this whole year, even still after purchasing a $1k Textralia clutch, and all new hydraulics as well. More then ever, I now wish I had purchased an A4.

Greed4Speed

Just FYI, most tuners will only charge a fraction of the tune price for a mild retune. The guy I used said about $50 depending on the mods.

Greed4Speed

Flowtech makes the Twister muffler than costs less and sounds better than bullets IMO. They're not as raspy.

I got mine at a local muffler shop for $25.

Marc 85Z28

99% of the time, yes. Every car I know of that ran great ETs with a 6 speed got quicker when swapped over to an auto.

red_94z

What Kraest said earlier is true the auto is not any faster than the manual if you can drive, hook up, not bust the 10 bolt etc....

But most of the time the faster cars and the more consistent cars are the autos.

As for some times my 3600 pound 00 Z ran consistent 7.86s(in decent air) in the 1/8th with the 3500 stall, 4.10s, Lts, Borla, Sticky tires, lid, t-arm, and free mods

Critter

so basically with a full bolt on ls1 i'm looking at around 350 rwhp on a m6. the et's would be more consistant and probably quicker with the a4 and a converter, but the mpg would go down by 2-4 mpg on the highway.

being that i'm going for a dd i'm thinking i am going to just go with a bolt on ls1 t56 car. hopefull i can keep the car modding "sickness" undercontrol with the h/c lt1.

if i do get into the internals and get crazy with it i'm sure i'll pull the t56 and drop it in something like my g-body that i'm planning on building as a dd years from now. so in the end it would work out well.

thanks for the help