hey does anyone know which cam does not require a stall converter? i was told that the 224 cam does not require a stall but i am wondoring is there any other cam bigger than 224 that also does not require a stall as well. thanx.

 

as far as i know... no cam REALLY need a stall converter but you will need one if you are planning on actually using it to its fully potential

 

well i was told if you go with a bigger cam then u will need a higher stall because your stock one wont be able to handle that much power.

 

well honestly i am not to sure... what i said is just what i have gathered from reading what people have said

 

yea hopefully someone can answer my question.

 

In my opinion the stock cam needs a better converter if you want to race your car. I'd run a vigilante 3200 or 3600 in anything I owned.

I'd suggest biting the bullet and getting a converter. It takes a lot of money to race.

Finding what cam will half way work with a stock converter should not be a selection criterion in my opinion if you want your car to actually perform well.

FWIW, a TR224 can use a converter.

Ben T.

 

what cam does not require a stall that is higher then the 224 cam?

 

Definetly.

For an engine that makes bone-stock peak-torque high as hell, I'd definetly add a converter before I did a cam.

Mike

 

not gonna give you a clearcut answer only my experience so far.

i did things *** backward, not intentional but ened up that way. the cam in my sig still uses a stock tc. my car was a slug off the line but woke up after the 1/8. still not good. i just got 3.73's installed and the car seems like its shot out of a cannon. traction issues out the wazzu off the line. i will be getting a fuddle custom tc soon but the gears made a huge differance with the stock tc. find out my time this coming saturday weather permitting.

i thought the same thing tho, since i read the stock tc is only rated to 400 ft/lbs and the car is/was putting down 450 tq. so far its been holdng up for me.

 

You can get any cam you want with a stock torque converter. The problem is not that the cam will hurt the torque converter. The problem is the torque converter will hurt the performance the cam should be giving you. The bigger the cam, the more power your making in higher rpm's and less in lower ones. So if you are making all your power at 5,000 rpm's but still use a torque converter that flashes to 1800 then you feel sluggish for a long time until the rpm's get up.

That's why smaller cams like 222/222 are a better fit for stock torque converters. Smaller cams make the gains lower in the rpm's so you can use all the power down low where your stock converter keeps you.

But I honestly don't see why any A4 owner would ever buy a cam without at least putting a 3000-3800 stall in the car first. A 3500 stall with a 2.5 STR is perfectly streetable, helps the dead spot, complimets many cams as well as N20 nicely and basically makes the car a lot more fun to drive.

Just my .02

 

so it seems to me i would overall have to go with a stall so it can handle a cam like 233/239. since mines is a a4 its harder for me to reach 380-390rwhp.
do u guys think that cam can get me there or maybe something even a lil smaller than that can?

 

That cam will get you there, but you're going to need to get rid of that flowmaster and realize that you'll be in a high powerband for making power, so you'll probably have to spin the motor 6300+ to make peak power and will also need at least a 4400 stall and a 4.10 gear.

Mike

 

That's a pretty big cam for an A4 on stock stall and stock gears. This is just my opinion, but I wouldn't worry about hitting XXX rwhp in an automatic anyway. Dyno numbers don't mean as much for us as they do M6 guys. A real good setup to keep drivability in check would be something like this:

stock 3.23's (but 3.73's would work better when cash allows)
3800/2.5-2.7 STR torque converter
230/230 112 or 114 with a real good tune afterwards
Nitto 555R drag radials

That right there might not give you the dyno numbers of a M6 with caparible mods but the TC will kick all sorts of butt out of the hole. With a good tune this would be plenty streetable, make good power and give very good performance at the track (if you ever go).

And you can always get 100 wetshot and spray yourself well over 400 rwhp. Just a thought.

 

Get the converter first.
So far, it's the best mod I ever got.

 

A smaller converter also allows more slippage which helps the car not to creep at idle when running a larger cam.

For any auto car that you plan on drag racing, a converter should be done very early in the modding.