ive been bickering with a few friends over my rwhp. 283 with cutout closed, 291-293 with it open. i think these numbers are inconclusive. the cutout was partially open but not fully. i know it wont be a bigger differance. but my dr's were soaked when it was driven up onto the dyno and for both passes showed wetness. my question to you is; how much with this affect the pass?either way, im ordering lt's, orp, sims, and rumbler catback tonight from texas speed but just curious.

I dont know about the wet tires, but I know you will be pleased with those mods.. It gave the car that "new car" feeling. It was like buying it all over again. I was so happy about it for the longest time...

then the mod bug bit again. I Just bought a bunch more stuff Here we go again.....

What Next?....... (Gears & Stall, hint hint )

Not sure if "wet" tires will lower your reading, but slicks will lower your hp( up to 20). Also a converter and gears will lower your dyno reading. But a dyno reading is just a tuning device. A friend of mine has a 4000e yank stall and nittos and he put down 291hp, and yet he runs 13.1

In an A4 your best mod will be a converter.

True, yet a converter will also kill your dyno #'s too.

Don't feel bad about "only" dyno-ing around ~290. Contrary to popular belief that all LS1's dyno ~300+ at the wheels, there are those that put down ~290 or even (sit down if you're not already) less!! Mine "only" put down 289 hp / 307 tq, but I ran the 1/4 mile in my sig. Dyno #'s are merely a way of "bench racing".....they're good for bragging rights in some cases, but you've gotta be able to put the power to the ground to really brag.

True words.

ok, i feel a little better then. i am planning on a converter, figured id get that done when they drop the engine for the pistons, cam, and all the other goodies. i didnt want to go too radical with it tho so im buying a 3000 stall.

id go with at least a 3200 stall.



my 3600 is vert streetable.i couldve gone higher.


str makes a difference too.