My 98Z just went over 20k, and considering how bad the junk factory ACs on my SS were at 50k, decided to do the plugs. With the SS I had a real rough time with #8, ended up doing it from the bottom using a swivel ratchet with a short cheater bar for added leverage cause the plug was tight as hell. Did #8 last.

This time I decided to do #8 1st and figured there had to be a better way. So I put plug socket with a 3" extension on #8 and just studied the situation, considering the angle shown by the extension, the amount of room in there, available access path into that tight corner.

Looked thru my tool collection to see what I could use, and I considered EVERYTHING, no holds barred. In the drawer with the breaker bars, the swivel tip on the 1/2" breaker was sitting at an enticing angle. So I popped a 5/8 socket on it and gave it a try. No go, exaust manifold hit bar before socket got to plug. Tried a 2" universal, too long, wouldn't allow swing. Then I got the idea to put a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on the bar and use a 3/8 12 point socket. Bingo! perfect lenght. Pic:


In action:


Plug was tight as hell, but the leverage of the long breaker bar made short work of breaking it loose. I tried to switch to a swivel 3/8 ratchet with a short extension, but lacked swing room. So I just used the breaker again. I'd pop it off after a swing, reposition it on the plug and swing again. 12 point was better for that. After plug backed off enough to get easy, popped the bar off the adapter and finished unscewing plug with my fingers.

Bar/adapter angle worked so well, I did all the passenger side plugs with it. In fact, I didn't even have to remove coils for tool access. I only removed #6's coil so I could get my hand at a good enough angle to remove #8 plug wire. Other than the AIR tube and oil filler cap, everything else stayed in place. So it was a super quick plug change, just over 4 hours.

 

Sears sells a 1" long extension for 3/8" drive that is perfect for LS1 plug changes.

 

Holy crap 4 hours?! That's super quick for you? Good god man! Takes me like 45 minutes to change plugs and wires.

 

ding ding ding! doens't take much to change that plug, should only take about 45 min to an hour for the average person.

 

I know two people who spent over 6 hours doing this task and could not get plug 8. This is not a joke. They have not even done this once before.

Perhaps you could share a trick or technique that will allow them to rice ahead and finish quicker?

 

Take the coil packs off that side and it makes the job a breeze. That is if you don't mind your arm looking like it was ran through thorn bushes...I'm used to it though. 15 minutes to change the 7 easy plugs, 15 to stick my arm in there and change out number 8.

 

When I had my 02 Z28, it took around 1 hour 15 minuets to change the plugs and wires. #8 took like 45 minuets because I was trying to get access too it from the top and had to go from underneath. Now I can change the plugs in my chev truck in around 20 minuets tops but the camaro was a pita especially for the first time ever changing the plugs on that car. I am sure the goat will be a lot easier, I am figureing around 1/2 hour to do that when I need to.

Charlie

 

Damn, some of you guys are speedy as hell. I like to take my time and double check stuff as I go along, eyeball the old plugs as I pull them for insight into each cylinders condition, ohm the wires b4 I install them, etc. I suppose if I hustled, I could get it down to a blazing 2 hours.

The last time, #8 really made me work. Wasted 1/2 an hour trying to get it from the top, another 45 finally getting it done from the bottom. It's going to be cake the next time I do it... around 20k down the road.

And I know all the guys who aren't speed demons aren't going to post up and say "took me 6 hours to change the plugs and finally had to give up on #8 "

Good news is that the car feels better. Not as big an improvement as on the SS @ 50k, but it does feel smoother and acceleration improved. Hopefully mileage will too. GM saying 100k on factory plugs = no way.

 

I change my #8 from the bottom.

 

Like was said above... just take off the coil pack bracket. it's a breeze then. No emissions stuff helps too

 

Honestly, teh #8 plug was one of the easiest. I might have ended up using a socket combo like you did, I can't remember, but getting the OEM wire boots off of the 6 and 4 plugs was by far the worst part of the job.

 

When working on my Ls1, i found it easyer to remove the 5 bolts that holds the coils, and remove it, it makes it a lot easyer to change pluts, also if your engine has any heat in it i wouldnt reccommend changing them, alloy expands at a different rate than the steel the plugs are made out of, causing them to Seize in the threads, Have had it happen on one of Stock Heads stripping out the Threads... USE LOTS OF ANTI-SIEZE ON THE PLUGS WHEN INSTALLING!.

 

Hey Guys,

sorry to take that old thread but i need to change my plugs but im here in germany, so no one knows anything

My question is short: What ist ANTI-SIEZE? I dont find an translation for that.

THX!

 

It's a lubricant with nickel added. Very useful stuff, and required with most items that fasten into aluminum to prevent galling of the threads. Several companies make it, but the Permatex product is the best, item # 80078 "Anti-Seize Lubricant".

 

Yep... A couple 10mm bolts to freedom! And yes, the thorn bushes suck! I did that two weeks ago doing plugs on a partially dismantled 99 3.4L olds, trying to do the back 3 plugs.. I don't mind tight spots, but what I can't move at ALL, that's when I start getting pissed!

Or if you have a lift, that last one is a little easier from underneath.. When I plan on plugs, I plan on taking the heads off (mods).. LOL.. it's easier with the exh and coil pax out of there..